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kevin

Want to upgrade ...in stages

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kevin    0
kevin
I would like to upgrade the performance of my truck and as far as what i have been told i will only be able to try for around 100 hp without a new trans or upgrading the stock trans. I am going to start by removing the resonator and muffler. Then upgrading the p-pump and restricting the turbo wastegate as well as changing the air box and filter. the final part to my puzzle will be a box ie. comp edge. please let me know if i am leaving anything out or if there is another order in which to proceed.

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ISX    58
ISX

p-pump? Can you do us a favor and list what year and specs of truck you got.. Right now you posted in the VP44 section.

If you are going to mod it, this is how you should do it, in this order. 1, 2, and 3 can be swapped 4 always has to be last.

[*]Monitoring Devices (EGT, Boost, etc.)

[*]More Flow/Air (BHAF, Straight Pipe)

[*]Build Up the Powertrain (Better Clutch/Built Auto)

[*]Add Fuel (Programmers,chips, etc. or pump work on the P7100 trucks)

Explaining..

[*]Gauges will keep you from running it too hot and melting pistons, or running too much boost and blowing head gaskets, they enable you to keep an eye on the trucks workload and allow you to stay within it's limits.

[*]More air allows the engine to breath easier and lower the EGT's and run more efficiently.

[*]The stock clutch/automatic trans will not hold up to much more than stock power levels. You should upgrade to safely handle the added power.

[*]More fuel means more power, this is the final step because fuel is good as well as bad, it adds heat and can destroy, that is why you do the other steps first to keep the fueling from becoming excessive. Chips have limits on them that can be set but EGT/boost gauges can be your own limit since you let off if something gets too high.

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kevin    0
kevin

Sorry for the confusion. I have a 99 2500 24v with a stock auto trans. I mistyped concerning the pump.

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ISX    58
ISX

I guess 1, 2, and 3 can all be swapped around, but do not add more fuel until you have checked off the other 3. If you do without gauges, you have no idea how hot it is, if you do without a built trans, it could just go out on you anytime, if you do without more air, it will not be flowing good enough for what it needs to be to have more power efficiently.

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guesswho512    2
guesswho512

I would like to upgrade the performance of my truck and as far as what i have been told i will only be able to try for around 100 hp without a new trans or upgrading the stock trans. I am going to start by removing the resonator and muffler. Then upgrading the p-pump and restricting the turbo wastegate as well as changing the air box and filter. the final part to my puzzle will be a box ie. comp edge. please let me know if i am leaving anything out or if there is another order in which to proceed.

programers/chip/comp boxes will not help a p-pumped truck

Sorry for the confusion. I have a 99 2500 24v with a stock auto trans. I mistyped concerning the pump.

that explains it. your trans is the weak link. defiantly start with gauges and valve body for the automatic. then take a pick at the power adders :spend:. i would stay away from hotrod pumps. you can get what you are looking for without them

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Mopar1973Man    3,797
Mopar1973Man

ISX and GuessWho is right... Get your gauges... Pyrometer, boost, fuel pressure, trans temp... Fix the weak links like the fuel system upgraded lift pump... Fix the other weak link the trans by getting a TQ Conv and a Valve Body... Then you can add fuel... If you add fuel before you fix the weak links... The weak links will be the first to fail... In either case a injection pump for $1,200 bucks or a transmission for $2000 or more... :spend:

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JOHNFAK    85
JOHNFAK

p-pump? Can you do us a favor and list what year and specs of truck you got.. Right now you posted in the VP44 section.

If you are going to mod it, this is how you should do it, in this order. 1, 2, and 3 can be swapped 4 always has to be last.

[*]Monitoring Devices (EGT, Boost, etc.)

[*]More Flow/Air (BHAF, Straight Pipe)

[*]Build Up the Powertrain (Better Clutch/Built Auto)

[*]Add Fuel (Programmers,chips, etc. or pump work on the P7100 trucks)

Explaining..

[*]Gauges will keep you from running it too hot and melting pistons, or running too much boost and blowing head gaskets, they enable you to keep an eye on the trucks workload and allow you to stay within it's limits.

[*]More air allows the engine to breath easier and lower the EGT's and run more efficiently.

[*]The stock clutch/automatic trans will not hold up to much more than stock power levels. You should upgrade to safely handle the added power.

[*]More fuel means more power, this is the final step because fuel is good as well as bad, it adds heat and can destroy, that is why you do the other steps first to keep the fueling from becoming excessive. Chips have limits on them that can be set but EGT/boost gauges can be your own limit since you let off if something gets too high.

AMEN BROTHER - that should be a sticky on its own.!!!

Man - wish I knew back then ................... could have saved myself so much $$ and :banghead:

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MnTom    381
MnTom

Get a good transmission and you will be surprised as to how powerful your stock truck actually is!!

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kevin    0
kevin

Edge Attitude in-cab controllers allow for on-the-fly power level changes, enable extra power levels on the Juice, and completely replace gauges. These units are capable of monitoring and displaying EGT, boost, engine temperature, engine load, transmission slip, and true speed if non-stock wheels are on the truck, as well as a host of other parameters. The Attitude controllers offer the additional safety feature of EGT back down, allow the user to execute 0-60 and quarter-mile tests, and provide adjustable fueling levels at low boost and during shifting to improve towing and drivability. Edge Attitude in-cab controllers implement a backlit LCD display screen, which allows for a clear reading of EGT temperatures and boost, among other readings. With the push of a button, you can switch power levels and have adjustability on the fly. I did some research with pricing of gauges and pods and this product is less than the total of what i would have to spend on stand alone gauges and accesories. good idea or not?:drool:

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Mopar1973Man    3,797
Mopar1973Man

Edge Attitude in-cab controllers allow for on-the-fly power level changes, enable extra power levels on the Juice, and completely replace gauges. These units are capable of monitoring and displaying EGT, boost, engine temperature, engine load, transmission slip, and true speed if non-stock wheels are on the truck, as well as a host of other parameters. The Attitude controllers offer the additional safety feature of EGT back down, allow the user to execute 0-60 and quarter-mile tests, and provide adjustable fueling levels at low boost and during shifting to improve towing and drivability. Edge Attitude in-cab controllers implement a backlit LCD display screen, which allows for a clear reading of EGT temperatures and boost, among other readings. With the push of a button, you can switch power levels and have adjustability on the fly. I did some research with pricing of gauges and pods and this product is less than the total of what i would have to spend on stand alone gauges and accesories. good idea or not?:drool:

Here is what I think about the Edge Juice...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2867-How-to-get-lower-egt-s?p=21792&viewfull=1#post21792

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kevin    0
kevin

Are you not a fan of any boxes or just the edge.... I was looking at Edge Attitude in-cab controllers.

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Mopar1973Man    3,797
Mopar1973Man

Just not fond of the addon's... Edge Comp and Edge Juice with Attitude are exactly the same software and performance. Just that the juice has all the extra toys that most people mis-adjust the setting and then complain about poor power and performance. :rolleyes: The other problem is that the Edge juice relies on the stock sensors for all it gauges (expect pyro, trans temp, and fuel pressure). Like a hidden secret is that stock MAP sensor will not exceed 40 PSI. so if you start building into bigger toys the Attitude comes up short for boost gauge... post-2-138698172026_thumb.jpg Yeah I got a Edge Comp... And got gauges... post-2-138698172033_thumb.jpg

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dieselautopower    9
dieselautopower

I like the mechanical gauges, but the price is good on some of the all in one packages. Edge whet crazy expensive with their new displays, the Quadzilla Adrenaline is still inexpensive, and has the I-phone available to use a gauge and may have datalogging available as a software app.Quadzilla does make great power (like smarty/edge comp stack) but some people still have issues with it. Guess that comes with being on the cutting edge... sometimes you bleed a little.

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kevin    0
kevin

removed the muffler and resonator yesterday and am waiting for my bhaf. i am going to attempt to buid a box for the air filter and was wondering where the best place to locate the inlet from the outside air?

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ISX    58
ISX

I've seen a few guys run a tube between the radiator and passenger headlight, there is a small opening there.In all reality though, I put a temp sensor on the air filter and the max I see over ambient is 20F and that is only if I am pulling a trailer, otherwise it is 5-10F. I would just throw the filter on, build a base for it, and be done with it.

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volkswagon    7
volkswagon

I've seen a few guys run a tube between the radiator and passenger headlight, there is a small opening there. In all reality though, I put a temp sensor on the air filter and the max I see over ambient is 20F and that is only if I am pulling a trailer, otherwise it is 5-10F. I would just throw the filter on, build a base for it, and be done with it.

Are you talking any kind of heat shield or just filter sitting there beside the turbo?

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ISX    58
ISX

Are you talking any kind of heat shield or just filter sitting there beside the turbo?

I'm talking BHAF on the stock tube with nothing more, no heat shield no nothing.

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dually    0
dually

ISX and GuessWho is right... Get your gauges... Pyrometer, boost, fuel pressure, trans temp... Fix the weak links like the fuel system upgraded lift pump... Fix the other weak link the trans by getting a TQ Conv and a Valve Body... Then you can add fuel... If you add fuel before you fix the weak links... The weak links will be the first to fail... In either case a injection pump for $1,200 bucks or a transmission for $2000 or more... :spend:

I like this however i think a turbo should be before adding fuel. If you have big injectors and the stock turbo cant get the air to them it will make high egt depending on the size you go with. When you say "build" how much hp is in the end goal? Vp trucks have hit 1000hp with nitrous.Most can do 600hp.

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Mopar1973Man    3,797
Mopar1973Man

When you say "build" how much hp is in the end goal? Vp trucks have hit 1000hp with nitrous.Most can do 600hp.

Point of reference... 400-450 HP is a fairly easy point to reach and doesn't require a lot of expensive reworking...

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kevin    0
kevin

I'm only trying to get to about 330-350 and so far i have removed the muffler and resonator. That is as far as I have gone. I am going to put a bhaf on tomorrow. I have been following alot of threads on this site and have added my first quart of 2s to my fuel today, which from what I have read will help a little with pump and with hp. I am pretty sure that i am going to go with a programmer/controller next as it offers all the gauges i would be looking for as well as moderate performance upgrades.

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JOHNFAK    85
JOHNFAK

I'm only trying to get to about 330-350 and so far i have removed the muffler and resonator. That is as far as I have gone. I am going to put a bhaf on tomorrow. I have been following alot of threads on this site and have added my first quart of 2s to my fuel today, which from what I have read will help a little with pump and with hp. I am pretty sure that i am going to go with a programmer/controller next as it offers all the gauges i would be looking for as well as moderate performance upgrades.

Then just follow ISX original list

[*]Monitoring Devices (EGT, Boost, tranny temp etc.)

[*]More Flow/Air (BHAF, Straight Pipe)

[*]Build Up the Powertrain (Better Clutch/Built Auto) :smart: VERY IMPORTANT BEFORE STEP 4+5

[*]Add Fuel (Programmers,chips, etc)

[*]Add HX or bigger turbo if going an further than 350hp

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Dave3500    24
Dave3500

Make sure you read Michael's sticky on vp44 min fuel pressure. The first gauge to add is the FP. Get rid of the restictions in the fuel sys. That's the biggest killer. Save your money for a Fass or an Air Dog type of unit. That's what I'm doing. The way I'm going, I'll be 80 before I get all the weak spots taken care of. So I just drive it like I want it to last a million miles. Eventually, I'll need another VP44 & another TC but I don't want to break the bank before I need too. Savin' for an Air Dog Raptor, gettin' close I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. :-) Makes good cents to me because I want to run my own BioD.Also, a bypass filter like the Frantz. I bought a used one on Ebay & went to the wefilterit site to get all the parts I needed for the install. Deb worked with me, she was great!Happy CTD,Dave

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kevin    0
kevin

"Bought my 01 with 56k in the ticker, Got the bombing bug and started tweaking. I found the the stock tranny would hold 419HP fairly well w/o toeing! Yes I could slip the stock Torque convertor at any time if I stomped on it but the stock tranny held for daily driving." This is from another thread and the confusion sets in once again. I would be happy at 350 hp which would be a 120 more than what I understand stock to be. If the stock tranny in the 01 is the same as the 99 it should hold up, yes? and I also see people lauding the holley blue fuel pump. Sounds good to me. I could replace the holley 3 or 4 times before I spent what the fass:spend: or raptor:spend: cost. Are they that much better or just the same in a shiny box?:banghead: Look I am not trying to spend a ton of money to make 100 hp and there seems to be an opinion per hp what's the skinny? as far as i have read rebuilding the trans for the gains i'm looking for isn't nessacary and $500 for a tq and vb seems like money wasted, i already have two boats and three kids so i already have tons of places to throw money away. I understand the lift pump and think that you can't really go wrong for $70.00. so am i just full of @#%& or what?

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