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Posted

so my truck as been running like a dog. i thought it was just me, but my wife drove the truck yesterday and said so. so i went to preform an inspection and run the valves as i planned(http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2923-runnin-the-valves). the #2 intake rocker was real loose. i loosed the jam nut(which was really tight) and went to tighten the rocker screw and it just gave the rest of the way.....just my luck! post-98-138698172279_thumb.jpg how do i fix this?

Posted

is there enough room to double nut and thread the left overs out of there?is there even any more stud showing ..or did it break off in the head flush?then it would have to be drilled out.heavyd1980 has a snapon easy out kit that is ...awesome..may have to drill a hole in the stud and get a easy out after it. sorry that this has happend to you.

Posted

it is possible..can't tell if it pulled the threads in the head ...or it broke off half of the stud and there is some left in there.now..if it pulled the threads..you will probably have to put a heli-coil in it..i hope this is helping you out.

Posted

heli-coil is the name i needed...thx

--- Update to the previous post...

what is the shop time on that?

Speak with ISX. He helicoiled my tranny to keep a good seal on the pan as the fluid was always leaking due to stripped threads. You can buy the kit online and do it yourself - much cheaper and then you have for future issues. Kinda like tapping your exhaust manifold with appropriate NPT etc. Its NEAT.

If you need a new #2 rocker - not sure if joe (JLWelding) has a spare one with his new/old head setup. :shrug:

Posted

after i removed the exhaust rocker the pedistool came right off. you could see all kinds of metal...the old threads...there is a oil passage right next the said hole. it looks like there are a bunch of good threads. looks like with the pedistool the bolt only grabs a small amount of threads. if the bolt were a 1/4" longer it might be all good...so after waiting for a ride...i'm off to find either a longer bolt and/or a helicoil. does anyone know what bolt size/thread this is?

Posted

does anyone know what bolt size/thread this is?

You can measure the bolt diameter. Use an open end wrench if you don't have a micrometer. I expect that the entire engine is metric. A thread gauge will tell you the pitch. Cheap micrometer & tap/die set are some of the most useful tools you'll buy.
Posted

i found a longer bolt, but it is a grade weaker than the current one(10.9 vs 12.9). the bolt is M8 x 1.25. picked up a heli-coil kit also. will see what happens tomorrow :spend:

Posted

Yes heli coil that mutha :lol: In my experience if the threads stripped out then there is a reason, be it junk bolts or junk material you are screwing into. I went through hell with my AFC bolts because the P7100 is aluminum and the 4 fine thread bolts were so small that I easily stripped out the aluminum threads. I was trying to get it tight enough to get a good seal and you could hardly get it tight at all before you felt the threads pull out. After oversizing and having that not work either, I got smart. Went back to the junk bolts or junk material and since aluminum was junk I said ok I will change it, to helicoils. I can tighten the absolute hell out of them now. They are so simple and so strong that I would become a helicoil salesman if the offer came along. I think you know how to do it but just in case, you just drill the hole to the size the heli coil needs. Blow the hole out so it is clean. Get the heli coil tap and put oil on it (or any lubricant) and then tap the hole, do NOT tap it dry, always use oil and ALWAYS clean the tap after each hole. I used compressed air to make quick work of everything. Then you screw the heli coil in and get a small punch with a flat blunt end and just take a hammer and tap the thing you screwed the heli coil in, off of the rest of the heli coil. It is very hard so it will snap right off. Then you can use the same size screw as the original.

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Posted

well...the longer bolt worked, no heli-coil needed...the only thing that has me worried is it was a slightly longer, slightly weaker bolt. had a bent push rod also...lined up all the valves to .008 and .017i don't know about being quieter...but the power is smoother. before it felt like the turbo wasn't spooled until 1800-2k and was a tree legged dog above 2200 rpm. probably cause that #2 rocker... it had so much play....i hope myself or anyone else has to go thru that crap again.

Posted

Hey 512 you been reading my mail lol. The same thing happened to me with my new head. You wont to really see something that will tick you off pull the pedalstal flip it over with the bolt in it, there might be 7/16 of a inch sticking thru. This is more comon than you think.I dont think the lower grade bolt is much to worry about. I took mine and cut it in half spaced it out about 1/4 inch and welded it back and got about 6 threads , torqued it back down.

Posted

i look at some thread inserts at ACE HARDWARE. they were over $5 for 1 the size i needed( M8x1.25). and you had to drill the hole for it using a 27/64th bit over helicoil's size of 21/64th. i was also worried about it backing out, since i have no xp at this.the 2 shops i called wanted to remove the head and use the kind of insert that you had to counter sink....sound to price for me at the moment.

Posted

Thread inserts have to be drilled bigger than helicoil because it is an actual threaded insert unlike a helicoil which is nothing more than a spring style replacement thread which will not hold as much load or take as much torque as a thread insert. Also most thread inserts have notches on them that prevent them from backing out once installed but some like the brand I posted have loctite on them already. A lot of times a helicoil will work loose and ocassionally will come out with the bolt when it is removed. Helicoils are good for exterior minor places but not to be depended on in critical areas. Hope some learn a bit.SmokeyI am not familiar with the brand you listed but I would asume most are about the same thing.

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