Winter Fronts - Best way to keep you Cummins Warm!

[Hammer]

Russ....I actually have all 6 of the Lund panels and have tried all different combinations to see which worked the best and which one did not raise the intake air temps alot,thus the way you see the truck now.I also considered took into consideration what comes up off the road in the winter months and hits the truck front when I did the testing.If you would see a close up shot of the trucks panels you would get to see first hand how peppered the lower area gets from salt and cinders and all that crap can and will eventually block up a charge air cooler. I understand that you think that warm air in the winter is a good thing but any air thats too warm is not a good thing and you do need a balance of cold air to allow the truck to properly make efficent power.Yes your right, I have my ideas and they do work and have been watched with the aid of my data logger.I never remove the lower panel screens as they make little difference in the summer months and the little bit they do raise the air temps is worth the protection it provides the charge air cooler from road debris.......Andy

[haileyscomet]

Easiest fix is to move South---Like Texas..We dont have those cold awful winter storms like you guys up North. It does get cold but doesn't stay that away to long.Hook-Em Horns

[LiveOak]

Hey Live Oak there is ZERO cutting of wires everything plugs in...

As a matter of fact I'm building to kit as we speak I got to head out to Radio Shack and pick up the other parts I've ordered... I got some switches and resistors sitting up at McCall, Idaho...

Can you update the links to the pictures? I would be interested in seeing how you did this with all plug in components.

[LiveOak]

OK, I finally got the wife to take a pict of my home made thin plastic cold fronts... now on their second season. I like the blacked out look.

I used 1/4-20 SS bolts, except for one that I dropped & lost. Next year, I'm going to replace the pan head bolts with phillips, oval heads & finishing washers (all SS)... then I can use a screw gun to run it up on the SS nylocks & fender washers. The flexible plastic requires 2 bolts per pannel.

Pretty much the same set up I have on mine. I bought mine from Eric Buckle over on TDR. I replaced the lock washers and standard 1/4-20 nuts with stainless nylok nuts to keep things from rattling loose.

Nice lookin' truck by the way. :thumbsup:

[Mopar1973Man]

Can you update the links to the pictures? I would be interested in seeing how you did this with all plug in components.

Yeah that is rather old...http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/high-idle.htm Or the latest high idle thread... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php?t=977& http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php?t=788&

[dorkweed]

Easiest fix is to move South---Like Texas..We dont have those cold awful winter storms like you guys up North. It does get cold but doesn't stay that away to long. Hook-Em Horns

Maybe that's true in some parts of Texas, but not up in the panhandle. I lived for 18 months in Amarillo, and we had snow. Sometimes a lot of snow. One blizzard while I was there dumped about 16 inches of snow that basically shut everything down for 3-4 days!!!! One other time, I flew home for a wedding, and when I left Amarillo, it was 0*F outside.:eek: When I got to Chitcago, it was also 0*F outside!!!!

[haileyscomet]

Maybe that's true in some parts of Texas, but not up in the panhandle. I lived for 18 months in Amarillo, and we had snow. Sometimes a lot of snow. One blizzard while I was there dumped about 16 inches of snow that basically shut everything down for 3-4 days!!!! One other time, I flew home for a wedding, and when I left Amarillo, it was 0*F outside.:eek: When I got to Chitcago, it was also 0*F outside!!!!

Exactly-the panhandle does get the worst of it. I am in DFW so we rarely see blizzard type conditions.

[guesswho512]

Easiest fix is to move South---Like Texas..We dont have those cold awful winter storms like you guys up North. It does get cold but doesn't stay that away to long.

i had been say'n the samething....and christmas eve.....we're hammered like none i have seen in the 24 years living in OK

[flagmanruss]

It would be very interesting to see how high the under hood temps are when running a cold front or other devise to restrict air through the grill / bumper. It's been said earlier, but I'll repeat here, that blocking the "radiatior" is not the same thing because there are a multiplex of coolers & such. In my experience, engine temperatures run normal with my cold front panels installed... and reach normal (dead center on the temp guage) about as quickly as they would in Spring & Fall. The bumper cut outs remain open so some fresh air is input.Before I reinstalled the cold fronts... that one trip out, I stopped at the market. The parking space had a big snow pile & I agressively pushed into the snow with the bumper. I realized that the bumper cut outs were solid snow when I got home. Note to self: "Do not do this with cold front installed." This will be the third season with these panels.Russ

[uber racing]

Just thought I'd throw a couple of pics of my winter front up. To the inspiration from Mike's set up. Had some .080" Aluminum plate around. Put in place with carriage bolts. Used thumb screws with 1" washers to hold in place. Also a pic of my High Idle kicker switches.

[guesswho512]

Just thought I'd throw a couple of pics of my winter front up. To the inspiration from Mike's set up. Had some .080" Aluminum plate around. Put in place with carriage bolts. Used thumb screws with 1" washers to hold in place. Also a pic of my High Idle kicker switches.

that is a very clean install on the switches and that front looks very good also

[Racer Dan]

I'll have to ask my buddy at the dealership how much they will charge me with the DRB 3 to enable the high idle. I would like to get a copy of the TSB from you for it if possible.

[Mopar1973Man]

I'll have to ask my buddy at the dealership how much they will charge me with the DRB 3 to enable the high idle. I would like to get a copy of the TSB from you for it if possible.

Usually cost a shop hour... But here is the TSB. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/tsb18-019-01.htm

[Racer Dan]

I still know a few mechanics that work in the local Chrysler dealerships so I'll see if one of them can do it for me a little cheaper.

[ISX]

It would be very interesting to see how high the under hood temps are when running a cold front or other devise to restrict air through the grill / bumper.

I have winter fronts on and all I know is when I idled after being on the highway, it was in the teens and was radiating the heat to the overhead outdoor temp sensor. This was when the engine had been on the road for 5 hours so it was good and warm. Forgot I took my fan off. I wondered how it went from 16F to 60F

[Wild and Free]

I'll have to ask my buddy at the dealership how much they will charge me with the DRB 3 to enable the high idle. I would like to get a copy of the TSB from you for it if possible.

Not to correct but "HIGH IDLE" is wide open foot to the floor full governed rpm. What you are after is the "Elevated Idle" option. Also known as fast idle. Just find someone with a Smarty programmer and do a download and just unload it again the elevated idle will then be activated for good. Most guys with smarty programmers are always passing them around just to enable the elevated idle option for others.:shades:

[Racer Dan]

I've never heard of a smarty programmer but I'll ask around and see if anybody has one.

[flagmanruss]

I think the overhead sensor the the doohicky on the hood behind the grill. I'd like to know what the air temp is outside the air box... & inside, too.I will look at my overhead just to see what the sensor says... but that's in front of the radiator. Still the truck should run fine in 60 degree weather... so 60 degrees on the sensor should not be alarming. Errr, I guess that's what you were trying to say. SorryRuss

[ISX]

I think the overhead sensor the the doohicky on the hood behind the grill. I'd like to know what the air temp is outside the air box... & inside, too. I will look at my overhead just to see what the sensor says... but that's in front of the radiator. Still the truck should run fine in 60 degree weather... so 60 degrees on the sensor should not be alarming. Errr, I guess that's what you were trying to say. Sorry Russ

I meant the radiator produces enough heat to make my overhead sensor read 60f when its only 16f outside.. This was when I was just sitting there idling.

[LiveOak]

I've never heard of a smarty programmer but I'll ask around and see if anybody has one.

http://www.madselectronics.com/Smarty03.html you can find them for about $650 with free shipping.