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Manufacturer recommends oil to be changed at the 7,500 mile interval along with other things. I've heard of people going to the full 7,500 and some won't even go past 3,000.I know it's a dumb question to be asking but, I can only come up with 2 conclusions to this.3,000 miles can be pretty costly but, increases engine life as it's being flushed out with new oil. I guess those who can afford will do this.7,500 will be more cost effective in the long run but, you have just doubled the contaminants introduced into the system by doing it at this time. We all know that oil serves us 4 purposes, and that is, seal, cool, lubricate, and clean. Only makes sense that all four of these lack in their respective department by extending the interval.What do you guy's think?

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7500 miles for me. my 91 honda accord also has a 7500 mile interval also. 3000 mile oil change is a myth created by oil companies. most vehicles i have driven actually had a 5000 mile scheduled intervals, or higher :2cents:

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I change oil every 10K miles... But I've got a Frantz filter... The owners manual calls for 7,500 miles... You could have my Honda ATV 2008 in the owners manual requires oil change at 600 miles... :duh:

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what kind of oil are you running Mike and what is a frantz filter???

Chevron Delo 15W-40...

Toilet paper bypass filter that filter down to 1/2 Micron.

Posted Image

More here... These filter work good if Dorkweed can do 80K+ miles on WalMart Unverisal 15w-40

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1688-80-000-Miles......No-Full-Oil-Change

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8k to 10k on my truck. I hope I am not affecting my longevity... :lmao:

Yeah but tell the truth... You were going 20K miles between oil change orignally... :nono: (Busted... :lol:)

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Yeah but tell the truth... You were going 20K miles between oil change orignally... :nono: (Busted... :lol:)

haha - thats too funny :lmao2:

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I did that for the first 500k miles. That's true.

But look this man has managed to drive his 01 Cummins to the 900K milestone and still got room to spare... Now heading down the home stretch...

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Not a mile less than 7500. I Worked at a shop that serviced a fleet of dodge 24 valve cummins when I left the high milage one was at 800k lowest mileage one was 400k and they did conoco 15w40 oil and always had 10-12k on the oil changes with just a baldwin full flow filter. These were over the road rigs that pulled 40-45 foot enclosed gooseneck trailers that were loaded heavy, every rig had airbags inflated very hard.

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Ok... So just for the other people that visit the site what would you guys consider a safe upper mileage limit for oil changes? This of course is using a using a good quality lubricant (petroluem based) and a quality filter like fleetguard, baldwin, etc... I know changing every 3K miles is a waste for sure... :duh:

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Ok... So just for the other people that visit the site what would you guys consider a safe upper mileage limit for oil changes? This of course is using a using a good quality lubricant (petroluem based) and a quality filter like fleetguard, baldwin, etc... I know changing every 3K miles is a waste for sure... :duh:

Based on CAJ and W&F = 10k ..... good enough for me !!! :thumb1:

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With stock injectors 5000 to 7000.With big injectors washing down cylinders 3000 to 5000.Sorry i still go from 3000 to 4000 max.I just have a hard time trusting it over 4000.Maybe i should get blackstone to test it at 4k?

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My 8k to 10k are mostly highway and that means an oil change every week and a half or two weeks. I dropped down from 20k because I got scared. WHen I head the head off at 600k the cylinders had all the crosshatching. I use delo and fleetgaurd stratopores. I dont use the non stratopore ones.

--- Update to the previous post...

My 8k to 10k are mostly highway and that means an oil change every week and a half or two weeks. I dropped down from 20k because I got scared. When I had the head off at 600k the cylinders still had all the crosshatching. I use delo and fleetgaurd stratopores. I dont use the non stratopore ones.

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so me changing my oil and filter at 3k is a waste of time and money!:shrug: i dunno i think i agree with Dually it has been engrained in my mind for my entire life that 3k is time for fresh oil.

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I go 12000 km which is 7500 miles. I wouldn't be afraid of more. I did some oil samples on our tractor and at 450 hours the oil was testing perfect. The recommended interval is 250 so I think anything less than manufacturers specs is overkill.

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If I err not that's what it is. I'm sure my owners manual says 12000 km. I'd go out and look but it's cold, windy, and snowing right now:rolleyes:

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Dang a 1/2 micron thats unreal!!!:stuned:

But there is no published efficiency rating at 1/2 micron. Consider that a screen door will catch 1% of 1/2 micron particles... The Frantz do a very very good job of filtering, there is no doubt. However there is no way I am putting TP into my lube system. A 2um bypass is plenty for me, considering I also have a 15um full flow and the OE system is 25um (all absolute ratings).

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Yeah, I don't know if i would trust toilet paper as a filtering medium. With all that dust and stuff it leaves, I don't know about that... :shrug:

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I think there is a very important factor everyone is overlooking, and that is service factor. I drive 45mph down the highway every day and hardly load the engine, it therefore sees no real work so there is no real friction between components and therefore not as much wear. As load increases, so does friction and wear, that wear ends up in the oil. Now there is also the start/stop frequency. When you start it, the engine is inefficient at first and probably dilutes the oil with fuel. Not only that, starting is when you get the most wear on the engine, which again, ends up in the oil. Driving technique also effects it. City driving causes more wear from all the revving you have to do and the combustion temps drop at stoplights, sometimes to the point of incomplete combustion. Now from what I know, Caj pulls the loads at 55mph and doesn't do a lot of city driving, starting, etc. He has the load factor but all the other factors don't really apply to him so I can see 10k as a good changing point. The people starting and driving 5 miles to work and other places are the ones who need to change more frequently. There is a huge difference between 500 miles in a day and 500 miles in 100 days. There is a point where the engine becomes efficient and wears less, and having to hit that point daily (which I doubt 5 miles will ever hit that point (operating temp point)) will increase wear and decrease oil life. Now the other thing which has been talked about is filtering. You can't expect oil to be worth anything if you are only straining it through a sock, it must have good filtration. The better the filtering the longer it will last. In Dorkweed's case, he believes oil does not get "old", it just gets dirty. He has a frantz TP filter and changes it often and has ran the same oil change for 80,000 miles. By changing the filter often, he is able to keep the filter from becoming plugged. I know some people cringe when they think of that but it was just an example showing proof that cleanliness is key. His truck still starts and runs fine and gets good mileage pulling trailers. When you use a crappy oil filter, the oil quickly becomes full of abrasives that pass through the filter, you can change it at 3k but the other oil will be full of abrasives just as quick. You do not change the oil ant 3k because it is bad, you change it because the filter has filtered to the point of being clogged. However, this is a bunch of crap. If you have a crappy oil filter that lets a lot of stuff through, the big particles will accumulate eventually and start to plug up the filter, but this is a good thing. Now your crappy oil filter is plugged up to the point that it can now catch the small particles that it had been passing through. The problem is knowing when it is completely plugged with big and small particles. Your oil pressure would indicate this as being a huge restriction (though our trucks oil pressure gauges don't exactly gauge, they just turn on and off, use a scan gauge for a real number). For most people, I think 7,500-10k is a good point to use. If you are starting it every day, driving 80mph pulling 40k, change it at 3k.

We all know that oil serves us 4 purposes, and that is, seal, cool, lubricate, and clean.

The part about cooling is what I want to hit on as it is another factor. I am sure everyone knows what coking is, if not I will attach a pic on here to show it. When the oil gets hot because of high load conditions, it can get too hot and break the oil down, burning out critical detergents. This happens in the turbo bearings when you are running high boost and high EGT's. Not too much of an issue, but something to think about.

post-45-138698175208_thumb.jpg

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If you have a crappy oil filter that lets a lot of stuff through, the big particles will accumulate eventually and start to plug up the filter, but this is a good thing. Now your crappy oil filter is plugged up to the point that it can now catch the small particles that it had been passing through. The problem is knowing when it is completely plugged with big and small particles. Your oil pressure would indicate this as being a huge restriction (though our trucks oil pressure gauges don't exactly gauge, they just turn on and off, use a scan gauge for a real number).

the oil filter is not the same as a fuel filter. the filter has a by-pass valve inside it to prevent oil pressure loss. as the filter becomes clogged to slow the oil pressure, the valve opens to prevent pressure loss. after a point the full flow filter is not filtering anything.

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