Jump to content
Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

Engine Block Warmer

DieselD24
 Share

Recommended Posts

LiveOak

LiveOak

Posted
Posted

The extension cord is a 14 gauge @ 50 feet. I use about 47 or 48 feet of it from the outlet to the truck. I got an extra 2 feet give or take of the cord that I don't need. I just got home and plugged it in, and tried listening for any noises - none heard. I also took the capscrew off and looked at the prongs going to the heater element. Would it matter if the cord was plugged in wrong at the heater element? I did a little bit of surfin' lastnight and came across a site or forum, which I can't remember the site it was but, the guy had mentioned from hot to neutral you should have 21 ohms and from hot or neutral to the ground prong 0 ohms. I did the hot to neutral prongs and came up with 20.7 I proceeded to do the hot and neutral to ground prong and had a constant fluctuation. This is the part that doesn't make any sense. What am I doing wrong? :banghead::banghead:

Try removing the block heater cord at the block where it hooks up to the block heater element. It should unthread. Look inside the cup that threads up to the block heater element to ensure the contacts are clean and not arced out/melted or corroded. My wife's truck's block heater stopped working and it turned out to be a bad cord when I checked. I keep a spare cord and block heater element just in case something like this happens. I ordered mine from Geno's Garage. They had the best prices I could find on both. http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3975628 http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HEATER_CABLE_FL
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
DieselD24

DieselD24

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I am getting no where with this!Why would it matter if the block is warm or not, shouldn't it work regardless?The tests I did were performed lastnight, not this morning after I got home.I did a thorough inspection of the heater element and it was clean as can be. No signs of dirt, contamination, or anything of that sort. I am going to test the prongs on the heater element itself when I get home and see what I come up with. Anybody know what reading I should have, would it be the same reading of 20-21 ohms?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ISX

ISX

Posted
Posted

I am getting no where with this! Why would it matter if the block is warm or not, shouldn't it work regardless? The tests I did were performed lastnight, not this morning after I got home. I did a thorough inspection of the heater element and it was clean as can be. No signs of dirt, contamination, or anything of that sort. I am going to test the prongs on the heater element itself when I get home and see what I come up with. Anybody know what reading I should have, would it be the same reading of 20-21 ohms?

I just said this many posts ago. The element is 750 watts, which is 19.2 Ohms at 120V. If you are at 20.7 it is fine. You have to read the posts to get somewhere with this..

Actually, 19.2 Ohms is 750 watts. 20.7 works out to 695. So your element is fine. When you plug it in, it will sit there for a few seconds then you will hear it turn on. It isn't that loud so you can't hear it if there is any other noises around. If it were me, I would plug it in for an hour then feel the block right next to where the block heater goes into the block. It should be warm, if not, you got other issues going on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
LiveOak

LiveOak

Posted
Posted

If you still show a similar resistance on the prongs of the block heater element, that indicates that that element is good. I strongly suspect a bad cord. Just so I am follow your steps. You are allowing the block heater to be plugged in for at least 3 hours right? It takes a LONG time to warm up that much steel and iron. Some block heaters make the sizzling sound and some don't. After the block heater has been plugged in for about 3 hours, place you hand on the water neck on top of the engine. It should feel noticably warm to the touch and warmer than the rest of the engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
LiveOak

LiveOak

Posted
Posted

Keep a spare cord and you will always have a known good unit to fall back on. Only takes a few minutes to test swap in a new cord and listen for the sizzle or crackling when you plug it in. Sometimes the connection between the cord prongs and the block heat prongs gets corroded or dirty and then gets very hot and in some cases can melt. This usually results in an inop. block heater.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
LiveOak

LiveOak

Posted
Posted

Sorry I blew up on you guys yesterday. :(

:lmao::lmao2::lol: No problem. You should see me when I am having a bad day working on my truck other equipment. :mad@computer: I deplete the English language of cuss words and even invent a few new ones. Not doing real well on my New Year's Resolution. :doh:
Link to comment
Share on other sites
DieselD24

DieselD24

Posted
  • Author
Posted

:lmao::lmao2::lol: No problem. You should see me when I am having a bad day working on my truck other equipment. :mad@computer: I deplete the English language of cuss words and even invent a few new ones. Not doing real well on my New Year's Resolution. :doh:

LOL. That's funny, I invent new ones myself too. But, only I understand. LOL
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Rhagfo

Rhagfo

Posted
Posted

LOL. That's funny, I invent new ones myself too. But, only I understand. LOL

So did you have a bad cord? I have found if it is working the entire engine is very warm to the touch. Made for a nice working environment to change my stock LP to the FASS DDRP-02, I will relocate when it is a bit nicer outside. :drool:
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Perrysburg Dodgeboy

Perrysburg Dodgeboy

Posted
Posted

Well it's -4*F here this morning and with the truck plugged in all night the temp gauge read +140*F. Something you need to understand is this is nothing more then a small hot water tank heater. There is no thermostat on it so it draws power all the time it is plugged in. Also the coolant is not circulating it is just sitting there so it takes a long LONG time to heat all of the coolant. There are other block heaters that use a small pump to circulate the coolant to more effectively heat your coolant. You can also add a pump yourself then still us the stock block heater. BTW if you need a new cord set or heater element buy it off e-bay the cords are selling for $12-$15 and the dealers sell just the cord for $110+ :cookoo:. Here is a pic of the mod I did relocating my plug to the lower air dam. post-10751-138698175572_thumb.jpg post-10751-138698175563_thumb.jpg The part I used is from a marine supply house http://www.marinco.com/product/20-amp-125-volt-power-inlet-black keeps the cord set from hanging out from under the hood/grill. How do I post pics....help :ahhh::lmao:

I got ya..

Don
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Perrysburg Dodgeboy

Perrysburg Dodgeboy

Posted
Posted

You can pick them up off E-Bay for $14.24 + shipping here is a link http://cgi.ebay.com/Marinco-On-Board-Charger-Inlet-150BBI-/190500747521?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c5abab901 it makes for a very clean install and works very nice. So how do I post pics here? Mike if you let me post pics I promise not to stir the pot:nono:....well not to much anyway :cool: Don

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Heavyd1980

Heavyd1980

Posted
Posted

Well it's -4*F here this morning and with the truck plugged in all night the temp gauge read +140*F. Something you need to understand is this is nothing more then a small hot water tank heater. There is no thermostat on it so it draws power all the time it is plugged in. Also the coolant is not circulating it is just sitting there so it takes a long LONG time to heat all of the coolant. There are other block heaters that use a small pump to circulate the coolant to more effectively heat your coolant. You can also add a pump yourself then still us the stock block heater. BTW if you need a new cord set or heater element buy it off e-bay the cords are selling for $12-$15 and the dealers sell just the cord for $110+ :cookoo:. Here is a pic of the mod I did relocating my plug to the lower air dam. [ATTACH=CONFIG]2517[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]2516[/ATTACH] The part I used is from a marine supply house http://www.marinco.com/product/20-amp-125-volt-power-inlet-black keeps the cord set from hanging out from under the hood/grill. How do I post pics....help :ahhh::lmao: Don

Man that looks great! Thank you for the pics and the links to all this neat stuff!!!:drool:
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...