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jlwelding

MPG in my 05

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I am thinking the same thing. The truck is like new, 41k on it. I dont have any gauges yet. It is still under warrenty (drive train) I wonder if injectors and fuel system would fall under that?

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Are these hand calculated numbers or are you going by the overhead lie-O-meter??? How fast are you driving on the highway?? Jack rabbit take offs???My best ever is just over 23mpg. My last long trip was just recently......check the other 3rd gen forums for it...........but I got just over 21mpg on that one. I usually average about 18-20mpg this time of year highway driving. I also average about the same mpg driving around suburbia 50/50 driving empty and towing my work trailer where my speeds are mostly under 50mph.All my major mods are in my signature.............I do have just under 150,000 miles on Mighty Whitey though.

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When I brought it home just under 200 mile trip is when I got 15mpg and running 60-65. I am slow as grand pa driving around town. I have no idea what it should be getting. If there is something wrong what could it be, injectors? I know when you get into it it will roll smoke like it has bigger inj. but it's all stock.When I changed the fuel filter it had some trash in it but not really bad, I cleaned it all out and put the bladwin filter in. What about the injectors on these trucks, how do you know if they are washed out? I mean it's only got 41k on it.And yes on the hand cal.

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What about the injectors on these trucks, how do you know if they are washed out?

The only way I know to test them is go to a dealer and have a leak down test done... Or pull them out and and pop test them. Either way you looking to see if the injector leaks before the signal to fire.

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What is involved in a leak down test on CR?

--- Update to the previous post...

Sorry but I found this in another fourm, I think it makes some good points.

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[TD=class: alt1]only go with the g56. the auto will cost you 1 mpg and many thousand dollars of upgrade and maintenance. the 06 has a dual mass flywheel that has to be changed out to a southbend conofe get a bd exhaust brake and a maxbrake or smartbrake controller. you can get a 40% increase in mpg by getting rid of the in-cylinder egr. if you do the above it will make the best tow truck you will ever own. read the following paste for the egr.

Your truck uses in- cylinder egr for smog reduction. They also extend fueling duration and retard the timing to keep peak heat and pressure down. Since the third injection pulse is so late in the cycle the egt is very hot compared to a 03 but the peak temp where the no is formed is actually lower. i will try to keep it simple, the cam exhaust lobe is ground to leave burnt exhaust gas in for the next cycle. change the cam to a pdr or colt. the hamilton is ground more for kids who are after power, we just want low end torque and mpg. change or hone the nozzles to ddp 50 hp. get a smarty jr leave the torque and timing set on default and on tow or sw2 as it is called. get a fbd turbo back straight pipe kit 5". get a m090072 resonator and a m090535 muffler and 4 clamps from ryder truck parts. for the first one i did it took me 5 hours. after about the 10th one i can do it in about 3 hours. it takes longer to remove the old one than you think. i install them by my self and you do not need any special tools. i have my own shop and change the cams and nozzles here. you will probably have to pay labor. do the nozzle change at the same time as cam to save labor.. use the left over pipe to extend the exhaust out further to keep the fenders cleaner. from ah64id There is no external EGR on any 5.9. The 04.5-07 meet the 04 emissions by utilizing "in-cylinder" EGR. The 4 big ways this was done was cam, pistons, timing, and turbo.

The cam lobes are timed so that the intake is a longer duration, and the exhaust is very short (shorter than any other Cummins in a Dodge) and the exhaust closes sooner to keep more gasses in the cylinder, this decreases combustion temp.

The pistons are a non-reentrant design and don't promote as good of air movement and combustion, again reducing peak combustion temps (and makes the pistons really easy to melt)

The timing is retarded to again reduce peak cylinder pressure and combustion temps, and to raise the EGT's to help the Cat work.

The Turbo has a very inefficient tubrine wheel and small housing, this provides backpressure on the manifold to again reduce the exhast scavanging effect.

The 03-04 actually has the same cam, and the turbine is even smaller, but its the combo of the timing and the pistion in the 04.5-07's that completes the effect.

Personally I have changed my cam, use the Smarty Jr for timing, and will be swapping turbo's this spring.. should help clean up my oil, combustion, and power... thou it will increase the NOx effects.

flat lander it gets very confusing on the 04.5 up with the in-cylinder egr. they delayed timing, lengthend duration and added a very late 3rd pulse this was done to keep peak pressure and peak cylinder temp down but because the fuelling is so far away from tdc the egt's appear way hotter than previous models but in actuality it is lower than previous models on the pistons. for us that want better mpg we reverse engineer the process and as we do we see the egt drop knowing we are bringing piston temp up. with the smarty jr on default tow you will have both lower egt and piston temp than earlier models. you desparatly need to change your cam to a pdr or colt and get you some 50 hp nozzles from ddp. this will gain you 6 mpg and the lowest egt once the nozzles are on you need to go back to the economy setting. the 50 hp from the nozzles is kind of a unwanted byproduct of shortning the fuelling duration. with 40 hp from the jr and 50 from the nozzles it fits the air you have and is better than stock on the engine. some posting on here like to play and their requirements are different 150 hp nozzles drastically shortens duration to where the main or 2ond pulse injects the fuel just over tdc where the pressure is highest and the most efficient work is done but also produces the most piston temp. because the fuel burns longer the egt appears lower. we tow very heavy and have many drivers. we can not have a truck set up that you have to drive by a pyrometer. some of our older trucks have at or over 1,000,000 miles on them all of our 06's are set up this way except the one in my sig i added enough air to use tow setting. bigwheels 94 gave a good explanation on the stick timing vs size

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063500dually4X4qcg56,dynatrac,bd exhaust brake,donaldson m090535muffler,cfm+,winspeed spacer,smartyjr,taylor wings,luberfiner bypass filter,psm cold air,cool hose,tag,air tab's,pdr cam,ddp50hp injectors,htt 62 65 13ss,ss manifold, turbo and manifold blankets

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d good anyway :shrug:

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I didn't look prior, but I see now that you're a 100% stock truck. Sorry.First off, without knowing you, I still don't know how you drive your truck. You can tell me, but it's still not the same. I used to drive critters to market. You'd better believe that it mattered how they "were driven" to market based on how they were "graded" by the USDA!!! That's where I learned slow and easy stops and goes are essentially to the best possible animal grades, but also fuel mileage!!!Before doing any mods for mileage, if I were you, I'd first do these mods......1. Aftermarket lift-pump system2. Aftermarket supplementary 2micron fuel filter3.Straight thru muffler4. Gauges........EGT, Boost, LP pressure, and Rail pressureAfter the above, I'd get a Smarty Jr. now. I've got the Smarty Revo. However, since I've gotten the Revo, I've not been interested in anything else, so I've not been keeping "up to date" on the latest Smarty stuff. That's how good my Smarty Revo is!!!!! For you truck, IMHO, it sounds like you need something to "advance" the timing to get rid of the "RETARDED" timing the '04.5+'s have from the facory. IIRC, before I added the Juice (pre-smarty), I was getting the same mileage you were. It wasn't until I added a "box" (Edge Juice w/Attitude) and then finally the programmer Smarty Revo that my mileage got into the upper teens and lower twenties!!!!

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I bought my 06 used with 135,000 mi on it and have been getting between 21-23 hwy. empty, about 19.5 combined and 14-17 pulling our 35ft travel trailer(8,000 lbs.). all hand calculated.:thumb1:

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I bought my 06 used with 135,000 mi on it and have been getting between 21-23 hwy. empty, about 19.5 combined and 14-17 pulling our 35ft travel trailer(8,000 lbs.). all hand calculated.:thumb1:

Living proof!!!:thumb1::cool:

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Breaking 20 is not common on 3rd gen trucks, plain and simple. The weight combined with emissions just generally doesn't allow for it.

In the long post quoted earlier I made several of those comments, and have a good understanding of what works and doesn't on a 3rd gen. The 04.5-07 motor just isn't as efficient, but some can get that magical 20 number, generally in the SW or on the E coast.. too mountainous around here, thou I have hit 19+ a few times.

Here are my mileage logs, note that I am not even close to stock and do much better on fuel that I did stock (link in sig). Also the city driving %age on the page is actually towing %age.

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I get 20-21 mpg all day in my '03 with a mix of highway and city driving. Pure highway i will see 23mpg real easy.

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I got 20.1 MPG today also 03 QC DWD 4x4 LB on a 300 mile cruise some city, plus playing around trying to figure out a pump issue.

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The '03-'04 305HP/555 torque engines generally get better mileage than the '04.5-'07 325HP/600 torque engines due to the 3rd injection event, different piston design, and pollution stuff.

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Or maybe it has to do with UREA, witch started in 2007 to present. good read http://news.pickuptrucks.com/2010/01/welcome-to-2010-got-urea-.html almost the same as ***** in your tank

Dodge has yet to put Urea on the pickups, it's on the C&C's as of 2010 thou. I do think it's a mistake as Urea can be used in conjunction with proper tuning to make a better product.

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In a pinch, can you make your own "home brew" urea with about 1/3rd urine and 2/3rds water??? It's a crime to pay for a product that is that much water!!!

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I think this is a way to get a good idea of combined MPG. This is obviously open to many variables, but the end result is pretty surprising.. Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel http://www.fuelly.com/car/dodge/ram%202500/diesel%20l6/truck Dodge Ram 3500 Diesel http://www.fuelly.com/car/dodge/ram%203500/diesel%20l6/truck Across the board, they're fairly close.

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I bought my 06 used with 135,000 mi on it and have been getting between 21-23 hwy. empty, about 19.5 combined and 14-17 pulling our 35ft travel trailer(8,000 lbs.). all hand calculated.:thumb1:

Is yours a 2WD or 4WD ?

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15 MPG on the highway?:wow:Man I was pissed at the 24 MPG total I was getting Tuesday driving to pick up my new Ruger GP-100 SS 357 Mag. Was bucking a strong head wind. On the turnpike I was hitting 28 but on the State Routes it dragged it down to 24. But mine is a 2004 4X2 with 3:73 gears and an auto. When was the last time you changed the air filter?Don

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15 MPG on the highway?:wow: Man I was pissed at the 24 MPG total I was getting Tuesday driving to pick up my new Ruger GP-100 SS 357 Mag. Was bucking a strong head wind. On the turnpike I was hitting 28 but on the State Routes it dragged it down to 24. But mine is a 2004 4X2 with 3:73 gears and an auto. When was the last time you changed the air filter? Don

I realize yours is 2wd, but is that hand calculated or off the overhead?

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Overhead and my overhead is off by less then 0.5 MPG checking it by hand. The thing most people don't understand about the overhead mileage is you must reset it every refill to get an accurate reading. :smart: Also if you reset between fill ups you will not get an accurate reading. The other thing is where I live (the Ohio valley) we are as flat as the desert valley, so this also aides in better fuel mileage along with tucking in behind a big truck on the highway.Don

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Overhead and my overhead is off by less then 0.5 MPG checking it by hand.

The thing most people don't understand about the overhead mileage is you must reset it every refill to get an accurate reading. :smart: Also if you reset between fill ups you will not get an accurate reading.

The other thing is where I live (the Ohio valley) we are as flat as the desert valley, so this also aides in better fuel mileage along with tucking in behind a big truck on the highway.

Don

Did you just check it once?

When my truck had 10K miles on it the OH was within 5%, then as mileage grew so did the error. My error normally ranges from 8% to 25% off, and it's not the smarty that does it because I get the same results on stock tunes. I have yet to see anyone's overhead that is consistent or accurate. Most check it when fairly new and never check it again, but Dodge makes the mileage increase with miles because the motor "should" break in. I'm not saying your wrong, just stating that if it's accurate you have a very very rare truck. Generally when people check it again with some miles on the truck they learn how inaccurate it is.

I reset every fillup and track it. In 2007 my avg error was 3.64%, 2008 it was 10.95%, 2009 was 17.46%, 2010 was 17.5%, 2011 was 18.0%, and so far 2012 is 14.1%. As you can see the average has peaked at about 17-18% (less than 1K miles driven in 2012 and my last error was 8% so that really dropped the average of the 4 fillups). I just do the simple math of 20% error and it's generally pretty close, but like I said 8-25% swings do occur.

Here is a sampling of the variance of the error.

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Well nope I have not tracked it, to be honest I checked it about a dozen times with in the first 10K miles and have never double checked it again. So now I'm going to have to check it out again. I have done hand calcs every now and then just never double checked the OH.Don

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