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long cranking after AIRDOG INSTALL


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Yesw I have a AD ll DF100 its for stock trucks up to 500 hp which my truck is all stock I am starting to believe its my VP but untill I get my gauge I will be able to answer a lot of questions .

Dripley I went to blue chips web site again and there is a lot of information there and how to's I read all of the info on cold cranking hot cranking and all others but no sevice engine lite has went on and the cummins techs only found a 0211 code nothing on the VP

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I just checked my invoice from Bridgeway Cummins and the Tech said, he hooked up the insite and found

1 code 211 active.

--- Update to the previous post...

I found this at a web site Called Diesel Service Parts.com

and this list .I dont know if this is all of them or just a few

[h=1]ISB fault codes:

A complete list of all Dodge Cummins codes for ISB diesel engines[/h]Having trouble finding what your Dodge Cummins codes mean? Here is a list of all Cummins fault codes for the Dodge Cummins diesel engine.

Just scroll down the list for a discription of your specific fault code.

111 Electronic Control Module ECM Microprocessor

115 Engine Speed Sensor ESS Circuit

121 Engine Position Sensor EPS Circuit

122 Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor Circuit

123 Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor Circuit

124 Intake Manifold Pressure - Engine Protection

131 Accelerator Position Sensor Circuit

132 Accelerator Position Sensor Circuit

135 Oil Pressure Sensor Circuit

141 Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Choice

141sn Oil Pressure Sensor Circuit

141sw Oil Pressure Switch Circuit

144 Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit

146 Coolant Temperature - Engine Protection

153 Intake Manifold Air Temperature Sensor Circuit

154 Intake Manifold Air Temperature Sensor Circuit

186 Wait-to-Start Lamp Circuit

211 Vehicle Electronic Control Module

234 Engine Overspeed Circuit

261 Fuel Temperature Sensor Circuit

264 VP44 Fuel Temperature Sensor Error

278 Lift Pump Circuit

283 Engine Speed Sensor Supply

284 Engine Speed Sensor Supply

291 Datalink Circuit

334 Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit

352 Sensor Supply Circuit

362 VP44 Fuel Valve High Current Error

363 VP44 Fuel Pump Control Valve Feedback Error

364 Electronic Control Module ECM to Pump Communications Error

365 Fuel Pump Voltage Out of Range Error Low

366 VP44 Fuel Pump Voltage Measurement Error

367 VP44 Fuel Pump Speed/Position Sensor Signal Lost

368 VP44 Fuel Pump Can Not Reach Commanded Timing

369 VP44 Fuel Pump To Engine Synchronization Pulse Not Recognized

372 Idle Select High/Low

373 VP44 Fuel Pump Fuel Shut Off Error

374 VP44 Fuel Pump Calibration Error

375 Electronic Control Module ECM Fuel Calibration Corrupted

376 VP44 Fuel Pump rpm and Fuel Error

377 Fuel Pump Power Relay Stuck-On

381 Intake Air Heater Relay Circuit

382 Intake Air Heater Relay Circuit

383 Intake Air Heater Circuit

386 Sensor Supply Circuit

387 Accelerator Position Sensor Circuit

391 VP44 Relay Coil Supply Circuit

418 Water-In-Fuel Sensor Circuit

429 Water-In-Fuel WIF Sensor Circuit

431 Idle Validation Switch IVS Circuit

432 Accelerator Pedal Circuit ISS

433 Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor Circuit

441 Unswitched Battery Supply Circuit

442 Unswitched Battery Supply Circuit

443 Accelerator Position Sensor Circuit

517 VP44 Fuel Pump Valve Feedback Error

613 Engine Misfire Detection

621 Engine Misfire Detection

622 Engine Misfire Detection

623 Engine Misfire Detection

624 Engine Misfire Detection

625 Engine Misfire Detection

626 Engine Misfire Detection

These are all the Dodge Cummins codes available. For more Cummins fault codes list for different engines, choose your engine from

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Back when I was having all my problems and before I found this site, I googled trouble codes and found all kinds of lists of codes. I dont think I saw this one before. Mike has a good list in the articles section that pretty complete and the 211 is not listed. If this on is any good it says your ecm is toast. Not sure that is the case. Mikes list shows 606 as the ecm code. When you get a chance rent an scanner or go to an auto parts store and have them read them. It would be intersting to see what you come up with. How about going to the users cp and fill out your signatue with everything you know about your truck like you see under all my posts.

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Ok, just recieved my gauge today and I started the wiring on it before I was rained on so hopefully tomorrow I will have the electrical done and cut into the Brand new fuel line going to the VP ,MAN I just get nervous cutting into new stuff but It will have to be done ,Oh they sent me the wronr pillar pod not for my year of truck so that wont be installed till they ship me a new one, I havent been driving my truck the last few days I will be posting again in a day or two

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Thankyou all for waiting I just came in from working on this wiring and gauge, its all wired and I cut the fuel line hooked up the tee and sensor and I fired it up ,and it works ,I didnt take it for a ride but at a Idle its running at between 18 and 19 psi ,when I pulled the quick diconnect off the fuel poured out of the VP when I installed the tee and fuel sensor I got in the truck turned the key to start and it took about 1 to 2 seconds and it started let Idle for a while and the gauge flickered between 18 and 19 psi and did not change ,now tomorrow I will pull it out of the yard and take it for a spin I will have to duct tape the gauge to dash untill the correct one shows up

--- Update to the previous post...

I tried to go to user cp and I can only find edit signiture I cannot find anything on createing one

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well ,I did not have a chance to put the truck through the paces today just did not have time tomorrow I have all day to figure out whats going on ,Its been pouring rain here .I think that I am going to turn the pressure down to 15 psi and see if it makes a difference I dont know if 3 to 4 psi will make a difference but first I am going highway to see what it reads when I accelerate . I went to the user cp and I dont think that I am allowed for a signiture it just wontlet me type anything in the box ,mabe I have to post more

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Now that I think of it, if your AD is getting the right amount of pressure, it cant be anything to do with the AD. I have an idea. I can't remember if someone posted this or not, but trun your key to the ON position. Let the pump prime and shut off, then crank it. Then see what diff there is if you crank it when its priming.

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I have jumped into the truck and just turn the key to crank it and the few times that I did that it did start up faster , but not like it did before the AD I used to just get in wait for the wait light to go off and it fired up quick . Now when I get in and let it prime and wait for the wait light to go off it just cranks and cranks and cranks

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Ehat pressure are you seeing when it is just cranking and cranking? Here is the sequence you should see if you are connected thru the ecm. Key on(no start) the pump should prime briefly up to 2 seconds. the pressure should bleed off quickly after prime.Key on, bump starte(no start), the pump should run for about 25 seconds. when it stops the pressure bleeds of quickly.Key to startposition(engined cranking) the pressure shoulb be around 10 to 12 psi. This depends on the pressure the pump is set at. the ecm runs the pump at half cycle to lower the pressure for cranking. If the your pump opperates much differantly than that let us know.

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I seen just as you described, turn key to on, pump run 2 seconds ,bump starter, pump runs again for 25 seconds turned key to crank and it started up about 1 1/2 seconds the gauge said about 15 psi while it cranked ,at idle 18 1/2 to 19 -20 psi let it set for about 2 hours then repeated the same thing ,this time all the pre funtions with the pump were the same but this time while cranking it said 10 psi +- and started right up agin about 1 to 2 seconds . Then I took it for a ride ,as xcelerating it said 16 -16 1/2 psi in the lower gears as I got onto the highway WOT never dipped below 17 psi ran good for 5miles gauge always read between 17psi and 19 psi at 70+ ,only on lower gear xcelerating it dipped down to 16 -16 1/2 psi .

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I just came in from starting the truck went through all the motions just as before but tryied cranking when I bump the starter the pump came on again as described before but tryied cranking while its running and all it did was crank . My question is are the pressures seem a bit higher then they should and If I turned it down a bit there will be less pressure on the VP and maybe it will crank over faster like it used to do, just thinking

--- Update to the previous post...

So, if this keeps starting like it has the last few day I would have to hope to folow the sme procedure as I did today if it continoues does this mean this is the new normal or is it a sign that that the VP is starting to go ,when started it runs good no hitches I drive 20 miles to work everyday how can I tell if the pump is starting to fail?

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I seen just as you described, turn key to on, pump run 2 seconds ,bump starter, pump runs again for 25 seconds turned key to crank and it started up about 1 1/2 seconds the gauge said about 15 psi while it cranked ,at idle 18 1/2 to 19 -20 psi let it set for about 2 hours then repeated the same thing ,this time all the pre funtions with the pump were the same but this time while cranking it said 10 psi +- and started right up agin about 1 to 2 seconds .

Then I took it for a ride ,as xcelerating it said 16 -16 1/2 psi in the lower gears as I got onto the highway WOT never dipped below 17 psi ran good for 5miles gauge always read between 17psi and 19 psi at 70+ ,only on lower gear xcelerating it dipped down to 16 -16 1/2 psi .

Looks like he said it was 15 psi while he cranked when the AD was priming?

--- Update to the previous post...

I'm thinking it is not the AD. It has to be something else. What about the overflow valve, or a vent lock? Or maybe it is the VP44 like mentioned before?
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He does say 15 but a little further down he says he is seeing 10 psi while cranking. thats why I asked what he is seeing while cranking and it not starting. I dont think it is the AD and i might very sell be the vp is gone. I know to much pressure to the vp can cause hard starting, however I dont know the threshold is for that to happen. I dont believe i have ever bumped the starter in mine and then cranked it while the pump was running. I normally just get in and crank it up unless it is real cold. Might have to do that just to see if my cranking pressure remains high. The ecm should lower the pressure for cranking. I just went out and started mine with the pump running and the pressure dropped of quickly until the engine caught, about a half a second.

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