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What would you do, If you were in my Shoes?


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Aite, so Im going to explain the problem I have and the resources I also have. Tell me what you would do If you where in my shoes.Truck is a 2001 Dodge 2500 Auto. The torque converter is going out. The truck has 310,XXX Miles. All stock on the Transmission. Shifts fine and not really slipping but between 1100-1200 RPM's the transmission makes a LOUD rattling noise. The truck is my DD and I work every day but Sat. I have a back up car but its my fathers so I could not use it to long.About me, 2 Jobs, Full time college student. Can turn a wrench and get dirty but have very very limited tools. Have at most 2 grand to spend the less the better. Im located in Texarkana, TX in case any one wants to Help out. If I do it my self it would have to be quick.Plans for the truck. Light towing (Party boat, Atvs) Around town driving.. Looking to upgrade turbo, head studs, Injectors down the road.If you where in my shoes what would you do?

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You seem to be in a bit of a tight spot...Depending on how long you can borrow your fathers car, you could remove and re-install the transmission yourself. Depending on how limited you are on tools...2k is enough to buy the parts you need to do your own transmission rebuild. Problem is, if your limited on tools, you can't do it. You would have to source out the parts you don't have tools for to get a shop or someone you know who has the proper tools to do it.I'm not sure what this rattle is that you speak of... I would drop the pan and check out and see if your fluid is doing good and if you have metal in the pan. That is, if you have not done it already...Unless you have help from a couple knowledgeable guys, I doubt you would be able to pull off removal, rebuild, and reinstall of the transmission in one day. You would have to shoot for a few days off atleast. There has to be some give somewhere in order to make it work... You either need to wait until you can get more money to spend to have someone do it, or you need more time to DIY it.The cool possibility is that you may be able to find a place that already has a transmission ready to go for you, and all you need to do is just swap it. But, you may pay for it. It does not seem like you are gonna need anything special. I would think a good TC and an upgrade in your transmission a step up from stock would serve you fine. You just need a transmission that will handle the engine. You sound like you will be able to stay below the limits of the trucks rating for towing/hauling.So, here is what I would do:1. I would drive it as long as possible so I can further accumulate funds to have someone do the work for me, but depending on the condition of the transmission, you may cause hard part damage. Having someone do the work for you though, may take more than a day or two. But if you go this route, you should be able to meet the deadline for borrowing the car.2. If you want it done right, go a little longer on the transmission, accumulate more funds, soak up tons of knowledge and try and source the tools needed to do the rebuild yourself. Have a shop do the work you can't do. This will minimize unnecessary spending. This is an option that will save you the most money wise, and you will know what you have, but will take the most time.3. Find a transmission company that already has a tranny built up to what you feel is good for what your demands will be. Swap your transmission out, get a new TC and reinstall. Return the core...Take a look at revmax converters for your TC. They have good TC's from what I hear and they have a competitive price... You may not even need to rebuild your transmission. You just won't know until you open it up and find out. If the clutch packs and bands and all that kind of stuff is good, then maybe all you would need is a valve-body upgrade.I hope that it helped make your decison easier to decide on, and not complicate things further! :duh:

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not one too like to do the job twice and spend the exta money i would start with a billit flywheel and a billit three disc converter and work your way back as money permits its self its something you could do in a short time and not eat up your budgit and in one shot

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I would agree with the cracked flexplate also but first I would drop the pan and look for pieces amd if that looks fine pull the tranny and check out the flexplate. How big of a turbo and injectors are you looking to go in the future? I would not go too wild on a triple disc converter and billet flexplate if you are not planning on more than 500ish hp and not racing and sled pulling.I ran 560 hp on a single disc BD converter and stock flexplate and sled pulled for years with that setup trouble free. Drag racing would have been a different story as that is a lot harder on parts then a triple disc and billet would be wise but not for adily driver/tow rig.

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X2 with wild and and free Drop pan and check for material and fluid condition Then get under and rotate the flex plate through the inspection cover with a screwdriver Then just get a billet single or triple and a higher pressure vb Drop it and run like that you'll be at around 1k Then if still issues you will need a clutch refresh around 1500 --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?5z3bsc

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I got yall. Im going to get under there and try the cover plate thing am I just looking for a crack or something? Also what a bout a 5 speed conversion? I know its more involved but I could make it work If I got the parts cheap enough. I just need to go do more research on how the auto work and how to take it apart and what not. Im not afraid to get down and dirty with this truck.

--- Update to the previous post...

Also Ill try and get a video of the truck and the noise it makes.

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IMO, if you can save up the cash, talk to Stephan at DTT, and ask about a lightly built trans with a good single disk. Read this thread here about what you need for your trucks planned HP and usage Proper Upgrade List For Your Transmission Its worth going that route if you plan on doing mild upgrades. your not trying to tow mount Everest so there is no need to drop 5,000 on a trans. I agree with above, if you don't have all of the tools needed then there is no reason to try and build up your trans yourself, but check out (build your trans on a budget) thread they will ship you an overdrive that is built for you. Check out the DTT section http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/dtt-diesel-transmission-technology/ I know they usually do a tax time sale, or winter sale etic. I needed a trans when they didn't have a sale going on, but if you could wait ide go that route. Check out these threads here Want to Build Your Trans On A Budget Winter Transmission Parts Sale In the End i feel that you cannot go wrong with a built auto, but you must also weigh in the idea of shifting and rowing the gears, and the idea that you could be swapping in a manual with 200,000 miles on it, and then the hassle of doing an auto to manual conversion. I did the same thinking but went with a built auto for the simplicity of it all, and trust me its a night and day difference.

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THANK YOU for those links! Great info on only from this site! So I figured Ill just stick to auto. This is my first auto truck all the others Ive had were stick shift. I will be in contact with DDT sometime next week. How hard is it to change a flex plate and TC? what tools would I need id I did do it myself?

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Its best to do your TC and flex plate when you do your trans. Basically your removing the trans, or atleast sliding it back about 6 inches, so you can then pull the TC and flexplate and swapping them, you will have to install the TC bolts through the bell housing, but that is not hard.All the tools you need are sockets and wrenches, and a torque wrench. Its not that hard.My advise is if you do a billet input shaft, or a flex plate its best to do both at the same time, but its not that necessary if your going with a single disk. A good single disk is only 600 or so, and will easily last for what your doing.A triple disk will easily put alot of wear into your trans, if you don't have billeted parts, mainly because it grabs much harder when it does.

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Sounds like a flexplate that is cracked and along with it would not be a bad idea to inspect the crankshaft dampner to make sure it has not started to slip. there are 2 marks that should line up with each other on the two parts either side of the rubber. I would do a good single disc converter and a new flexplate and a VB along with it. It would be a lot safer to drop the tranny out completely as it would be a bugger to get the new converter in with it under the rig and on a jack. It can be a pain to get the splines and pump drive slots to line up and it wouldn't be good if it fell off a jack onto you or a helper.

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if not just give them a call, and see what they can do for you, ask for Stephan, or tell Shanti that john from jersey sent you.stock flex plates are a flip, i have heard of stock guys blowing them apart, and guys running 400HP through them and being fine.IMO if you go with a billet triple you should do billet input and flexplate. but a billet single with a stock truck a stock input is good, just want a billet plate.the problem is the billet flex plate doesn't allow for any flexing, like the stock ones does, so its suggested to toss for an input if your going with a single.

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