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how long it last for ? I just stopped by and got a quote - was $790 for whole truck 4 year warranty (mid/top range package). IS a single stage paint/clearcoat mix but not enamal; (urethane + IC).I had a look at a $300 enamel job coming out - and it really looked ok. I mean you could see close up where it was textured and not the bets paint job - but its better than whta I have now (will upload pics). I just dont want to spend $800 and have problems in 6 months. IF I get 3-4 years - should be ok.My plan is to build up the truck (interior and engine/turbos/etc) ...... and then eventually maybe even do an engine rebuild/overhaul. At that stage (5+years) - have a custom paint job with basically a new engine. I want to keep her for quite some time.*shrug*

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I think we kept the truck only about 2 more years. You know how dumb kids are:banghead:. I need to get my roof painted and I want to get my rockers and over the fenders done with line-x but seems I have to many needs infront of my wants and not enough money.:spend:

yeah same here Rethinking this idea If I can find a local painter to do cash work and me and him strip to metal for ~$1k I might do it. else Going to try and get the paint matched at a auto paint supply with their gun/camera thing --- and just sand bad spots back and do the best i can .... i think ... :ahhh:
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  • 4 weeks later...

Good paint is expensive. A good base coat/ clear coat job being done without a color change or body work (in my area) will run around $2200, that is, provided it isn't red. Red paint is very expensive. Recently a friend of mine painted a Mustang, he had $940 in just the paint, clear coat and sealer. The enamel jobs are okay however the new urethane paints that are on the newer vehicles today (ours included) are far superior to enamel paints in hardness, durability and shine.The old saying "you get what you pay for" applies when it comes to paint. There are also many grades of clear coat. Higher cost clear lasts longer and is harder.

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... The old saying "you get what you pay for" applies when it comes to paint ....

This is the truest statement ever said. There are 5 things that giver you a good paint job. 1. a person who really knows their job and has pride in their work. 2. quality material 3. exceptional prep work (this is 60% of a good paint job) 4. patience in spraying and with experience 5. stands by their work These shops have done some good work and you may get the up to 5 years you want. A cousin of mine had a truck 11 years and with his efforts of maintaining it. But then again, I've seen many a bad jobs to. Really look over vehicles they just finished and which painter did it, this helps.
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  • 4 weeks later...

I don't know if I'm too late here, but I will NOT recommend Maaco to anyone EVER. I had my Camaro in there quite a few years ago. Paid top dollar for the "best" paint job. At first glance it looked OK. But then you look closer and see a "skipper" mark in the rear wing that was not there in the original paint. They take it back in the shop, and when it comes back out, it doesn't look like they did anything to it... then they feed me some crap about how it just won't come out without EXTENSIVE work. I'm thinking to myself..."the mark wasn't there, when I brought it in... WTF" Not only that, but they didn't completely remove the old paint like they were supposed to. You could see it in the door creases and other small places. Over a couple years time, the paint had SEVERELY faded off on the roof and small chips from stones revealed more areas that were not sanded or prepped properly. This severe damage happened JUST as the warranty was up and even if it wasn't I would never take my car there again. This was about 7 years ago, when I was in high school and didn't know any better, but in hindsight I should have did everything in my power to get it fixed for free. But instead, I just chose to spread my experience anywhere possible and hopefully they get what they deserve someday. But please do yourself a favor and find a REAL reputable paint shop.

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There is a huge difference in the quality of paints, and most importantly clearcoats. There is a good grade at $360/gal. Mid grade at $180/gal.. The cheaper material is somewhere south of $180. They all look very similar when first applied, it is later that the differences appear.Also, there are single stage paint jobs (which you may have gotten) which is enamel paint, shoot the enamel on and you are done. Not very durable in sun and weather. Urethane, which is the hardest and most durable paint available currently comes factory on cars today. It is a base coat/clear coat application and called two stage paint as you spray the base (color) on and then shoot clear over that. I am sure there is a body man on here that could elaborate better than I. I hope this helps someone who is paint job shopping to be a bit more educated.

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Like others have said prep work is the most important aspect. The paint choice $$$ + quality, long lasting. Painting is easy, prep is where the work is. You can do it yourself and although you won't save any money. You'll have the tools to do the job again when needed. Start with an Acrilic Enamel (cheap) put hardner in it. And it will shine like a new penny. It is not as durable as other paint types but is great to learn with and will last a good long time if waxed good at least once a year. I've painted cars and tractors and they have turned out great. Do the truck in sections. It takes more time but is easier to do and lets you build your skills.Look at my avatar pic it is a simple enamel with hardner painted in my driveway.

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thanks ...- but read the couple guys there that were happy with their job even after 8 years. Anyway - going to keep the paint as it is right now. Keep doing touch ups until I cant handle it anymore. Then try and do a full paint restoration ............ properly with proper prep. I need to fix a bunch of small rust spots in the truck bed as well as underneath .......... keep the frame in good shape and check the doors until then.
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