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Well on the Suggestion of 98whitelighting, i lurked around searching on here for what my issues may be but to no avail i didn't find a solution to my problem. As of 2 days ago my truck was running just fine, then my CEL came on i went to parts store scanned and came back with P0237 MAP truck ran fine though so i cleared, came back about 6 hrs later cleared again probably coming on because of my XZt+ i had just uploaded a new tune to it. I don't know if this coincides with my issues from today, truck was driving fine this morning went to pick up a load for our job site and on the way back cruising about 35MPH truck just shut off, I checked fuel canister had bout half canister i topped it off, had plenty of fuel in the tank. tried cranking for about 5 mins to no avail so i had it towed. As to that point i searched all over Cumminsforum with no luck to my issues, so i figured id try over here. i have unplugged the XZT+ checked Batts, unplugged APPS and reset tried jumping the MAP Could a bad MAP cause a no start? i dont have the socket to take it out at the moment to clean. i can hear my LP buzz for bout 2 Secs when key is turned on no start like normal. Only conclusion and can come up with is maybe my VP is shot? ive checked fuses/relays all connections still just turns over. And i haven't installed a FPG yet i know thats a first for these trucks i just havent had time with work very busy lately. I'm sorry for such a long post im just trying to cover every issue that has happened and step ive taken to resolve. Any help or input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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I checked fuel canister had bout half canister i topped it off, had plenty of fuel in the tank. tried cranking for about 5 mins to no avail so i had it towed. ........... i can hear my LP buzz for bout 2 Secs when key is turned on no start like normal.

Your fuel cannister should be FULL. I would just barely crank the starter. Your lift pump should run for about 20 sec. Second, I would disconnect the fuel inlet before the cannister and crank the starter and look for a LOT of fuel to come out. If you got a lot of fuel, then check at the injectors for fuel. Report back your results. Do you have the stock lift pump? Is it in the tank if you do?
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Your fuel cannister should be FULL. I would just barely crank the starter. Your lift pump should run for about 20 sec. Second, I would disconnect the fuel inlet before the cannister and crank the starter and look for a LOT of fuel to come out. If you got a lot of fuel, then check at the injectors for fuel. Report back your results. Do you have the stock lift pump? Is it in the tank if you do?

Ok i'll have to check that tomorrow, i can't do the fuel line my Apartments would have my Arse if i did that. even with a catch pan and all. Mine is on the engine, Stock as far as i know not aftermarket and if it was replaced was done with stock replacement, ive had the truck for 5 months
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Yea it was half-3/4 full, i just did the key bump and LP ran for about 20 seconds no leaks that i can see all is dry. I checked the codes again and now i got a new code a P1488 i think from my Batts they are weak after all the Cranking Attempts

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P0237 (M) Map Sensor Voltage Too Low MAP sensor voltage input below the minimum acceptable

voltage.

P1488 Auxiliary 5 Volt Supply Output Too Low - Auxiliary 5 volt sensor feed is sensed to be below anacceptable limit.

P1488 5 Volt Supply Voltage Low - Sensor supply voltage for ECM sensors is too low.

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stock lift pumps=junk..the folks who engineered them should be :ashamed: sorry about the bad luck man...but you have come to the right place...the owner of the sight and everyone else here has helped out alot folks thru out the country..and if you are mechanically inclined and love to work on these engine you can save your self alot of "cha-ching":thumbup2:

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stock lift pumps=junk..the folks who engineered them should be :ashamed: sorry about the bad luck man...but you have come to the right place...the owner of the sight and everyone else here has helped out alot folks thru out the country..and if you are mechanically inclined and love to work on these engine you can save your self alot of "cha-ching":thumbup2:

Yea i know there crap lol. Yea i've been over on the CF for awhile now and skimmed thru here some finally decided to register and see if i can get some useful advice/help. Im deff mechanically inclined and ready to figure this thing out haha this is my only ride and DD, Shooting to save as much $$ as possible, as of now i gotta go get 2 new Batteries, checked my old ones yesterday and they tested bad 3 times on 2 different testers, Possibly cause an issues with what im experiencing? also wondering if i should pull out my MAP and cleann and re-install and see if it cranks? i just don't see how it being dirty/Bad could keep truck from starting... Run rough and crappy yes.
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If you have a short in the battery, it can show good in volts. But it will not crank the engine. Found that out years ago when the retail store I was managing sold auto batteries and found the same parameters and same results. Not sure when you say "bad" what kind of test you are running. Put in the new batteries and find out about your fuel issues and get those fixed and then start her up. Good luck!

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If you have a short in the battery, it can show good in volts. But it will not crank the engine. Found that out years ago when the retail store I was managing sold auto batteries and found the same parameters and same results. Not sure when you say "bad" what kind of test you are running. Put in the new batteries and find out about your fuel issues and get those fixed and then start her up. Good luck!

Just the normal Oreilly auto part store testers, im out of town working and all my tools are back home blah. They had 12 volts but thee charge percent was down, i charged them and put back in and tried cranking just turned over no fire to no avail.

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Well i just borrowed a buddies New Battery put in with no change, and i also bumped the key for the LP to run and opened the drain valve and it shot out with plenty of pressure it was back splattering back upward so i know for sure the LP is doing it's job. im gonna go buy the nessecary sockets to take out the MAP and IAT sensors and clean them and see what happens.

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So is this possibly a batter problem? I know batteries have went up over the last year. Good luck:thumbup2: Arent you in Jacksonville? If you get it figured out there is a drag in Orlando saturday and a big pull in Wachula the end of next month.

I thought it might be but it's not, Batteries are fine. I pulled the MAP out and it was almost spotless no clogs or any thing i cleaned it and replaced. Truck still just turns over :ahhh: after what i've read and tried i think my VP is shot, but hard to say with not being able to crank/run the truck to do all the test needed to be sure of that or what the problem is. Yes im in JAX, i had planned on going to both actually but we'll see
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I thought it might be but it's not, Batteries are fine. I pulled the MAP out and it was almost spotless no clogs or any thing i cleaned it and replaced. Truck still just turns over :ahhh: after what i've read and tried i think my VP is shot, but hard to say with not being able to crank/run the truck to do all the test needed to be sure of that or what the problem is.

Yes im in JAX, i had planned on going to both actually but we'll see

Before you excuse your vp44 as the problem, you need to remedy the biggest problem on these trucks. The lift pump. You need to invest in getting yourself an airdog or fass. Even if the problem is not fuel related, you still need to get one as in time your VP WILL die from the lack of performance of the OEM lift pump.

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ALSO, disconnect your quadzilla and run the truck in stock form. Make sure that even though the quad may be turned off, it is still disconnected. Egde chips still interfere with the truck even though they are off, so its just a good precaution to take with your quadzilla.

See how if it runs good after you D'C it.

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Read through this:

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/95-map-manifold-atmosphere-pressure-sensor-error-codes

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Sorry I'm late to the party... :banghead:Ok I can give you this much. You can disconnect most all sensor on the engine and it still start and run without them. ECT, APPS, MAP, IAT, and I think that its... As for your fuel system what is your fuel pressure when you bump the starter? Do you happen to have a fuel pressure gauge?

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Before you excuse your vp44 as the problem, you need to remedy the biggest problem on these trucks. The lift pump. You need to invest in getting yourself an airdog or fass. Even if the problem is not fuel related, you still need to get one as in time your VP WILL die from the lack of performance of the OEM lift pump.

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ALSO, disconnect your quadzilla and run the truck in stock form. Make sure that even though the quad may be turned off, it is still disconnected. Egde chips still interfere with the truck even though they are off, so its just a good precaution to take with your quadzilla.

See how if it runs good after you D'C it.

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Read through this:

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/95-map-manifold-atmosphere-pressure-sensor-error-codes

Thanks for the Reply, I got it running!!! :thumb1: i charged my Batteries up and got some Either and gave it a shot and the truck fired up on the 3rd shot, strange though as i did this yesterday and to no avail. So i took it for a 6 mile run with no issues runs just like it did before. i replaced the fuel filter as the old one was nasty bout due for it. I also ran a Batt/starter/Alt test and CEL check came back with these results

P0237-Turbo/charger Boost sensor A circuit low i think this might be from my XZT+ i saw on a post where the built in boost fooler could cause issues? XZT+ is currently unhooked from the truck, i had the 3000 Tune on it and since i ran that tune this happened. I was running the Comp B4 with no issues.

Alternator 13.59V

Output 91Amps

Driver batt 13.06V

Pass batt 12.86V

Im looking in to getting the Raptor Direct bolt in replacement. This one is currently working but in next 2 weeks deffintley replacing. and installing my FG. I

I really appreciate all the replies, im familliar with the usual issues with these truck, i have just never experinced any of them...yet lol until this happened, stiull gets me though that either started it, when it didnt prior... Maybe Air in the fuel system?

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Sorry I'm late to the party... :banghead:

Ok I can give you this much. You can disconnect most all sensor on the engine and it still start and run without them. ECT, APPS, MAP, IAT, and I think that its...

As for your fuel system what is your fuel pressure when you bump the starter?

Do you happen to have a fuel pressure gauge?

I didn't know that i thought the sensors had to be plugged in to run, Good to know.

I have a full Gauge setup with pilliar mount, I havent had time to install yet ive been pulling 12-16 Hr days, i know no excuse lol

If u look at my post just before this i went over some more things as well, it still bugs me why and how this happened, and then all of a sudden it runs again like normal...

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Sounds like the XLT is giving you the code. Internally screwed up on the boost fooling circuit. As for the battery voltage you look like you got some rotten cables if the voltage is wandering that wide from one side to the other. Might consider this test... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables As for ether don't use it... Your taking a risk of the grid heater possibly igniting it in the manifold and cause a explosion. If you need to use it make sure to unhook the grid heater lead from the battery so the grid heater will not come on.

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Sounds like the XLT is giving you the code. Internally screwed up on the boost fooling circuit. As for the battery voltage you look like you got some rotten cables if the voltage is wandering that wide from one side to the other. Might consider this test... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables As for ether don't use it... Your taking a risk of the grid heater possibly igniting it in the manifold and cause a explosion. If you need to use it make sure to unhook the grid heater lead from the battery so the grid heater will not come on.

So i'll leave the XZT unhooked until i get it fixed or upgrade. They look pretty good, but i know looks can be deceiving, i'll do the test tomorrow after work. Yea i know i hate using the stuff, but i did it as a last resort, if it didnt start today i was looking at having my truck towed 100+ miles back home to get fixed.. So i took a chance lol Is it possible that the Boost code caused the truck to shut down and not start? Seems odd to me
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As of today i've driven it 30 miles to/from work and been easy on it and got down on it some and truck runs just like it did before i had these issues, so im assuming it must have been a crazy fluke, Thanks again for all the advice and Input

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