Time to change the anti freeze

[wagntagn]

In my manual they recommend anti freeze with Aluguard 340 -2,what's special about it? Is the pink antifreeze extended life good for the cummins?

[hd99fxr3]

In my manual they recommend anti freeze with Aluguard 340 -2,what's special about it? Is the pink antifreeze extended life good for the cummins?

No you need Zerex G-05. It's in a gold jug. The all makes all models antifreeze, may work OK but for the small difference in price why risk $$$$$$$$ in repairs over a couple of bucks?

[wagntagn]

never seen that product before,I'm from Canada maybe it runs under a different name

[hd99fxr3]

never seen that product before,I'm from Canada maybe it runs under a different name

In that case look for HOAT type antifreeze, it is the only thing qualified for a Cummins. You may need to read the small print on the label. Carquest is your best option for the Zerex. Google it as well.

[CSM]

In that case look for HOAT type antifreeze, it is the only thing qualified for a Cummins. You may need to read the small print on the label. Carquest is your best option for the Zerex. Google it as well.

Isn't that just for common rail or newer?

[wagntagn]

Mine is a 2001 ,they recommend Aluguard??

[hd99fxr3]

Isn't that just for common rail or newer?

Not 100%, but everytime this comes up, that is the recommendation given. Mines a CR, so for me it's a must. Like I said for a few bucks why take the chance? To my way of thinking a Cummins is a Cummins, and that is who wants the HOAT type, not Dodge.

[Mopar1973Man]

Well I bit south of you and I get the cheap ol' WalMart and mix it 50/50 without a issue all the way down to -25*F and no problems in 10 years of ownership. I don't get wrapped up in claims of coolant performance. Oh yeah I'm pretty sure Prestone makes SuperTech Coolant like PennzOil makes SuperTech Engine Oil's.

[wagntagn]

I presently have the green stuff,somebody mentioned I should go with the pink extended life?The one from wall mart is what color?

[Mopar1973Man]

I presently have the green stuff,somebody mentioned I should go with the pink extended life?The one from wall mart is what color?

WalMart SuperTech Coolant and Prestone are both YELLOW. As far as I understand yellow is universal and can be used with either green or orange.

[hd99fxr3]

Mike you use the green stuff, but change it every year. For those that use the green, and don't change on a yearly basis, are opening up a big can of worms. Yours never has a chance for the PH to degrade, others may run it five years or longer, in which case they may get a surprise.I don't know for sure what is the right one for the second gens. But Green and diesels generally don't get along, over the long term (read ignored as most are prone to do). :2cents:wagntagn, do what you feel is right for you, but for twelve bucks more over a five year term, I'll go with the Zerex G05. It works for diesels of all types and makes, and is good for 5 years, without the need to worry about the engine eating itself from the inside out. Or do like Mike and change out the green every year.

[wagntagn]

what colour is that anti freeze?

[CSM]

The new anti freeze, per what my old cummins tech tells me, is different. Its some sort of special formulation, and is required on the CR trucks. Without the right coolant, supposedly small bubbles will form on the cylinder walls, causing cracks/pits in the cylinder walls. The old trucks 12v and VP44 24v are ok with the Glycol based coolant. I searched for your alumaguard coolant mentioned in the OP and I couldn't find it. Mine is an 02 and I believe that the regular Prestone yellow or glycol green is fine in it... and a heck of a lot cheaper.ETA: HOAT (hybrid organic additive technology). Thats the new stuff... G05 generic name, Zerex is the brand name. From what I read it also has very good anti corrosion properties... so with aluminum, zinc, steel, iron, copper, lead etc in your engine you don't make a battery and cause parts to turn into mush. I may change to this stuff in my 02. Looks like good modern... albeit expensive tech.So, for your 01, as long as you replace the coolant with the same as what was in there (regular glycol with regular glycol) etc, you should be fine. I did read that some of the new Zerex coolant and the old glycol don't mix well.

[hd99fxr3]

The new anti freeze, per what my old cummins tech tells me, is different. Its some sort of special formulation, and is required on the CR trucks. Without the right coolant, supposedly small bubbles will form on the cylinder walls, causing cracks/pits in the cylinder walls. The old trucks 12v and VP44 24v are ok with the Glycol based coolant. I searched for your alumaguard coolant mentioned in the OP and I couldn't find it. Mine is an 02 and I believe that the regular Prestone yellow or glycol green is fine in it... and a heck of a lot cheaper. ETA: HOAT (hybrid organic additive technology). Thats the new stuff... G05 generic name, Zerex is the brand name. From what I read it also has very good anti corrosion properties... so with aluminum, zinc, steel, iron, copper, lead etc in your engine you don't make a battery and cause parts to turn into mush. I may change to this stuff in my 02. Looks like good modern... albeit expensive tech. So, for your 01, as long as you replace the coolant with the same as what was in there (regular glycol with regular glycol) etc, you should be fine. I did read that some of the new Zerex coolant and the old glycol don't mix well.

I think with a little more research you'll find that the only reason the CRs require it, is because of running the green stuff in the older trucks. They didn't magically need it just because the went to a CR for fuel delivery. My wifes MB 3.0L 5 cyl diesel requires the green type be changed every year. It's a 1984 model. cast iron block and head with cylinders cast in block just like the Cummins. If you don't the engine will eat itself from the inside out. With the HOAT technology MB recommends a 60 month interval of changes in the older diesel cars. It's not that much more. $16.99 vs $12.99 for the green.

[c farmer]

Stick with the green. If you dont get all of the old green out and put pink in it, it will turn black. they dont mix well.

[Mopar1973Man]

Mike you use the green stuff, but change it every year. For those that use the green, and don't change on a yearly basis, are opening up a big can of worms. Yours never has a chance for the PH to degrade, others may run it five years or longer, in which case they may get a surprise. I don't know for sure what is the right one for the second gens. But Green and diesels generally don't get along, over the long term (read ignored as most are prone to do). wagntagn, do what you feel is right for you, but for twelve bucks more over a five year term, I'll go with the Zerex G05. It works for diesels of all types and makes, and is good for 5 years, without the need to worry about the engine eating itself from the inside out. Or do like Mike and change out the green every year.

I'm running yellow now. As for mileage I put 30K miles on every year just about. Then looking in the owners manual that is the period when all fluids should be changed. Heck with all the running for SAR's I've cleared 1,000 miles in 4 days. So roughly at that rate 120 days I would be changing fluids again. Thank Gawd I'm not though...

[hd99fxr3]

Stick with the green. If you dont get all of the old green out and put pink in it, it will turn black. they dont mix well.

That's why flushes are recommended, and are not hard to achieve. Just time consuming. But again nothing that a saturday morning won't fix.

[Rogan]

How best to flush these thirsty coolant systems, for those that do it often?

[hd99fxr3]

Heres a thread from not long ago where Mike describes how to do it. It's about half way down. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5959-Coolant-flushing?highlight=flush+coolant There are more. I used the search engine window on this site and typed in "flush antifreeze". You can do it with out starting the engine, just takes longer. Pull the heater hoses and put the hose so that water runs in one hose, and when its running clear out the other it's flushed. Open the radiator drain, and pull the thermostat. Stick the hose in the radiator opening and turn it on (not full blast). When clear water runs out the thermostat opening, it's good. Prior to that, run the water into the heater hose barb sticking out of the head, to give it a bit of a flush. If it's been a long time or you have scale build up get a bottle of flush and follow the directions.

[Rogan]

I've been properly schooled, now, on the 'search' functionality..