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Fuel system bleeding down

98whitelightnin
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98whitelightnin

98whitelightnin

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When I park on level ground or nose uphill its been turning over about 2 seconds or so no matter how long it sets. If I park nose downhill it starts imediatly like it always has. What is the best way to find my culprit? I dont see any wet spots anywhere but my fuel line is about 5 years old and looksdry rotted in some places but its not wet either. The teflon tape on the bottom threads of my needle valve was a little discolored so I replaced it with new and it fired up imediatly but its nose down hill too.:think:

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It also runs just as smooth as always, no miss at idle or anything.

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98whitelightnin

98whitelightnin

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Well it fired right up after setting all day and night nose uphill but it doesnt idle as smooth as it should. Went to the a resteraunt and came back out to a hot motor parked nose up and it took longer than usual to fire. Went to the pull and parked on level ground and with a cold motor 6 hrs later it fired right up. Could it be something to do with heat and this new ecm? I may put the old ecm back on for a few hrs and see if it changes.Mike, what do you use instead of teflon tape?

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98whitelightnin

98whitelightnin

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Would it be possible to put a needle valve in the line just before the injector pump with some king of bleed valve so when I changed fuel filters or fuel line from the fass that I woulndt have to bleed the system but instead just close that valve off and then bleed the air out before it ever reached the vp?

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diesel4life

diesel4life

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Would it be possible to put a needle valve in the line just before the injector pump with some king of bleed valve so when I changed fuel filters or fuel line from the fass that I woulndt have to bleed the system but instead just close that valve off and then bleed the air out before it ever reached the vp?

What about putting a valve just upstream of your filter? That way the line doesnt drain back and empty out when you open up the filter. Even if you put one before the vp i would think you still get air in the pump when filling the lines back up with fuel, unless you had a tee or something along with a valve just before the vp to crack open and bleed the air out before opening the valve to the vp. Antisieze has very good lubricating properties i generally use it on most all fittings before assembly even if theres no concerns for corrosion it helps to keep things from galling up and makes everything much easier to come apart.
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98whitelightnin

98whitelightnin

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Thats what I want, maybe a few inches before the vp, some kind of valve that I can close to keep pressure in the pump and injectors. Some way to bleed the filter and all just before the valve. Change filter, bump starter and while the LP is running some kind of valve to bleed the air out and then open the needle valve just before the pump and boom, fires right up with no loosening injectors and having them leak for a few days. What do yall think?

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98whitelightnin

98whitelightnin

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Mainly just trying to make things easier when changing filters and all. I need to change the 3/8 hose from my fass to the pump and really dread it because of bleeding it and then leaking fule from the lines for a couple days. Im really anal about this truck and cant stand it when everything is not perfect. When you change the filter on a 12v you dont have to bleed the lines, and a common rail bleeds itself.

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98whitelightnin

98whitelightnin

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Just got off of the phone with Eric and Vulcan and we think he got me set up. He is sending me a 1/2 ball valve and some pushlock fittings so I can get this thing done. If it works, it will make changing the fuel filter so much easier and no more leaking fuel lines at the head after a filter change.:woot:

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Well I had a hunch and I was right. I put the old ecm back on and it fired right up and idled smooth as silk like it used to. I found a local guy on CL that has a 98.5 5 speed to part out and im gonna see if he will swap me ecm's and some $$.

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