My headlights aren't quite cutting it for me anymore. I had a similar issue with my 2000 V10's headlights, they just don't put out much light. Our 05 Silverado low beams are equivilent to my trucks high beams, especially in the rain. I am planning on picking up some "smoked" housings to go along with my all black and white color scheme. I was wondering if the brightness problems lie solely on the bulbs used, or will an aftermarket light put out much better brightness? Link to kit I am looking at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/94-01-DODGE-RAM-SMOKED-LENS-HEADLIGHTS-LAMP-ASSEMBLY-96-/220806310939 If it is a bulb issue alone, I have no problem buying this kit and then swapping some more powerful lights into them right away if that's possible. Thanks for any help.

Sport lens conversion. I got a great deal on some from cumminsforum. there are also threads here for the wiring.

Subscribed.... Just realized that my eyes get reall worn out with bad visibility on my 02 ... I dont want HID.. Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2

If I do the sport lens conversion, the only option I will have is smoke them myself which I don't really want to do. I would like to buy a lens that is already darkened so I know it will be consistent and look nice. Also I don't have to worry about over darkening it myself. That's why I was wondering if maybe the bulbs just don't put out much light. The lights I have been looking at claim to be an improvement over factory lights, but I don't care if I have to swap in some more powerful bulbs in the new housings.

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Subscribed.... Just realized that my eyes get reall worn out with bad visibility on my 02 ... I dont want HID..

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Yeah, I dont really want HID's either, but I need to make some kind of change. If I absolutely have to swap to sport lens, I will, but I'm hoping to find a better bulb or something that will put out more light, just looking for some suggestions.

I've decided to go the route of driving lights and fog lights. Just a thought.

I've decided to go the route of driving lights and fog lights. Just a thought.

What do you mean? Just use both sets of lights all the time?

Projectors put out an awesome even light... But too much bling for the 2ng gen IMOP.... Im thinking maybe top of the line bulbs and maybe add some light force driving lights...???? Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2

I emailed dan sterling lighting 5 mins ago and already got a response... Great info. Would u like me to cut n paste it here? Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2

I emailed dan sterling lighting 5 mins ago and already got a response... Great info. Would u like me to cut n paste it here? Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2

That'd be great, any info will help

What do you mean? Just use both sets of lights all the time?

Recent thread "bumper mount driving lights". Gives wiring and relay info on running fog or driving lights. while bright truck lights are on driving lights with low beams fog lights. One Switch on or off. Off regular lights, on high beams and driving or low beams with fog.

Headlights on these trucks (non-sport) suck, period. the black housing style should put out a little more light with less refraction (if the light housing is designed properly) due to the non-fluted lenses.

Headlights on these trucks (non-sport) suck, period. the black housing style should put out a little more light with less refraction (if the light housing is designed properly) due to the non-fluted lenses.

Good to know. Maybe I will pick up a set of the black housings and post some before and after pics at night.

Got some awesome info from Daniel Sterling.....they seem like stand up guys... i totally agree with them on aftermarket housing quality ... plz read entire post... lots of good info here... Put in a set of the '99-'01 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport headlamps, which are *much* better than the lamps all non-Sport '94-'02 style Rams got. The Sport lamps use two bulbs per side (a 9007 high/low and a 9004 high-only) and produce much more effective, longer and wider, better focused beam patterns. They physically fit right in, but require some wiring adaptation, which is just as well since the factory wiring tends to starve the bulbs. You need: -a set (left and right) of the '99-'01 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport headlamps. Get the real ones from the dealer or www.chryslerpartsdirect.com , not the Taiwanese knockoffs from eBay or elsewhere on the internet; the low price of the aftermarket units is attractive, of course, but despite "OEM quality" and "DOT/SAE approved" claims, they are junk (more info below). Factory part numbers are as follows: Headlamp, left: 55077 025AC Headlamp, right: 55077 024AC Park/turn lamp, left: 55077 033AC Park/turn lamp, right: 55077 032AC The original park/turn lamps can be used with the new headlamps; I've listed the Sport type park/turn units because their clear-lens design matches that of the Sport headlamps. Also note that the above numbers may from time to time be updated or superseded as noted when you do a part number search on chryslerpartsdirect.com or realmopar.com - go ahead and buy whatever the latest part number is. -A Dodge Ram conversion wiring and relay installation package RIK-RAM, $79 here. The installation package includes all necessary plugs, sockets, terminals, fused fuseholders, relays, relay brackets, terminal blocks, etc. -- everything except actual wire -- to install the new headlamps _and_ eliminate the voltage drop present in the factory-type wiring. You supply your own wire and use the parts from the kit to build up your own wiring harness. Specific instructions are provided, and the concept is explained athttp://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html .Parts are specially made premium-grade items (e.g. ceramic headlamp sockets) that accept large-gauge wire; this is not the "consumer grade" junk you can find at the parts store. Or, I can have my harness builder custom build you a ready-to-install harness assembly using the same components. Cost for this option is $161.44 (including parts and labour - you pick _either_ the relay kit _or_ the custom-built harness. It costs more than the chintzy and unreliable $30 to $50 Chinese prefab harnesses because it is not a Chinese prefab harness). Either way, the in-cab switches continue working normally, and you will not need to cut or otherwise disturb any of the vehicle's original wires. And either method will work fine on a dual-battery Ram. -A set (two 9007 and two 9004) of ultra high efficacy bulbs. The best 9007 bulbs presently on the market are the Philips Xtreme Power items: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00480N16S/ or the GE Night Hawk Platinums: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UX7I9G The best 9004 bulbs presently on the market are the GE Night Hawk Platnium 9004NHP: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UX7I9G Do not buy blue or "extra white" bulbs (Silver Star, Crystal Vision, TruView, Hoen, PIAA, etc.); despite the heavy advertising push and claims of "brighter and whiter" light, they actually produce _less_ light due to the blue glass they use. More info on original vs. aftermarket lamps: All of the aftermarket lamps, whether they're original-looking or restyled, are trash. The low price is attractive, but the quality, performance, and durability are all substantially and dangerously inferior to the genuine items. This goes for all the many brands of aftermarket lamp—TYC, Genera, Depo, DJAuto, ScanTech, and many other brands (and unbrands) of original-looking and restyled lamps, not to mention the newest wave of trash coming in from China under names like Helix and Sonar (projector headlamp conversions, clear-lens conversions, angel eyes, LED lines, etc...every bit of it dangerously badly made). There is no optical engineering behind any of these; they are headlamp-shaped toys made from physical copies of the originals, which is not even close to adequate. One might as well make a mould of your eyeglasses lenses and expect to be able to cast new working eyeglass lenses from the mould. The level of shape precision required to accurately focus the beam can only be achieved with optical engineering _from scratch_. Copies don't even begin to get in the ballpark. Light distribution is way, way out of line with what it should be. Usually the DOT and/or ECE safety approval or certification marks are fraudulent or counterfeit. "Perfect OE fit and performance" is often promised in the ads for the copycat lamps. This is an out-and-out lie. Take a look at http://www.capacertified.org/press/CAPALighting3.pdf , which is the report on a large government-sponsored test of OE vs. TYC and Depo versions of simple, cheap American-vehicle headlamps. Even though TYC is widely regarded as the least-awful of a pathetic bunch, still a complete failure by the TYC & Depo units (see page 21 and 30 if you don't have time to read the whole report). There is only one proper operational setup for the Sport lamps, and that is as follows: Low beam mode: Low beam filament of outboard 9007 bulb on, all other filaments off. Got some great info from Dan sterling High beam mode: High beam filament of outboard 9007 and high beam filament of inboard 9004 on, all other filaments off. The low beam filament of the inboard 9004 is not used -- these lamps do not have optics to focus the light from it. In NO case are the low beam and high beam filaments on together! Two-filament headlight bulbs are pressurized to about 10 atmospheres COLD. They are not designed to handle the heat (or the current on the common filament support lead) of running both filaments at the same time for more than very brief periods during beam changeover or headlight flashing. Doing so carries the very real risk of the bulb grenading inside the headlamp, destroying it (and holding the beam selector switch to run both at the same time will cook your wiring and switches). Some people who think they're clever wire it up this way anyhow, and the "Brite Box" people have made a business out of this "clever" (not) modification.

those black housings eat a lot of light. they're black! I ran a set on my Dakota for a month before they went in the bin.get projector housings and don't look back.

I agree projector housing are way more effective...... Just the look is what bothers me... Maybe someone can posts some pics of their projector setup for an idea of what will look like. Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/02data1uuqsa7wd/pkpQW7sr4x#f:IMG_3201.JPG https://www.dropbox.com/sh/02data1uuqsa7wd/pkpQW7sr4x#f:IMG_3206.JPG these links seem to have a habit of expiring. the housings are available in black or chrome. ebay item. I've had two sets, the halo power supplies don't seem to last, one failed on each set after a couple months.

Thanks for the info above. Glad you posted it before I bought anything. I know I said I wanted the black headlights, but I think I will do the sport conversion and just make it a clear lens setup instead. That is the next best thing to match my white and black scheme. My truck goes in tomorrow for inspection, o-ring replacement and e-brake adjustment... so we will see how much that sets me back, then I will do the headlights.

I have dealt with Daniel Stern before, and I will again. He knows his stuff.

During my quest for better lighting I have come up with the same thing basically for the least amount of work.

I have some off brand Sport lights and I need to replace them. One has moisture in it and the other never really tighten down fully.

The lighting operation of the Sports is correct as well. When I first put mine in I needed to use the stock headlight blub which is the high beam on sports. I have to adjust the lamps so far down that it hit the fender. Still the light pattern was a tad to high. I still got ocasionally flashed.

As far as lights IMHO Fluted lenses seem to be the least effiecient, followed by reflectro type housing and then projector style housings. Projectors making the most of the light.

As far as my ideas, HID conversions. using cheap knock offs and refitting OEM HID projectors in them, using knock offs and refitting halogen headlight modules like these: Hella Headlight modules the 90 mm flavor.

The black housing shouldnt eat light. Shouldn't as only the reflector is the working part. The housing around it can be any color. Now with the cheapie ebay lights, who knows. The smoked lense WILL eat light. Sucks since I like that look too, but clear lenses are better then new front sheet metal.

Unfortunately the Sports are the best low labor involved option I have come across, and I like how they look as well. I dont drive with my foglights on as well unless its umm foggy out. They put out too much foreground light and draw diminsh your distance vision. OK in town but not good on interstate where you want ample time to see, identify and react to something in the road. If its foggy enough to need foglights, you shouldnt be driving at highway speeds anyways. Just my opinion.

Unfortunately, the headlight project is going to the back burner for now. I have a big $14-1500 bill coming my way for the inspection of my truck. E-brake system was pretty trashed, oil leaked from somewhere around the powersteering housing, a few of the injectors were leaking, passenger ball joint was shot and some other little misc. things. So unless a light goes out, I will be dealing with the lights as they are for a while, but please continue to post any info you have, I will need it eventually...

I used the OEM fog lights as driving lights to take some hours off the headlight bulbs since I don't have DRL. The result was that the fog lights burned out quickly, were not the easiest to change & the bulbs cost more than I expected. So I stopped the practice. Actually my non-sport headlights are pretty decent... maybe I got lucky... but then my truck had low mileage & lights are sun protected the way I park, nose in. I will probably go sport headlights in the future.Those part numbers listed above show as 2002 sport. Was it first offered in 02? Does the year listed matter?

I just put a set of A1 Auto head lights on my truck. They were $75 for both w/o the turn signals. They also came with bulbs, probably like the oe ones. The light is much better, but there is a small problem with the light dispersion from one side to the other. The brights were extraordinary though however. I have some photos and wanted to mess with them a little before I posted it though. They were cheap and might not last long:shrug:, only time will tell. It is an alternative if you are strapped for cash. Even with the light dispersion problem, they are a great improvement over what I had.