Newbie, which lift pump??

[Mopar1973Man]

If you get the 150 series pump then yes you end up with the drawstraw setup... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm But even with the draw straw there is isses of sloshing. Most people complain about 1.4 tank of the fuel dropping to 0 PSI because the sucking air at the draw straw tip. But with the 100 series pumps you can hook to the stock pickup assembly. But there is issues with that too. I've find out from members here and other ofrums there is a air leak issue with that snap on connector. Some just clamp on to the plastic nipple and some have to modify the sender a bit to get tight seal.

[Racer Dan]

It looks like my fuel tank will be my next project on this non-stop work on my truck lately, lol. I installed my fuel pressure gauge today and the stock lift pump is producing about 12 psi at idle and about 5-7 under hard acceleration so it isn't too bad I guess. Now I will be able to monitor if I have a fuel pickup issue in my tank if the gauge drops when it shouldn't, but I still need to pull the tank and look at the sending unit. I did release the "air lock" at the top of the fuel filter once I went for a ride.

[LiveOak]

It looks like my fuel tank will be my next project on this non-stop work on my truck lately, lol. I installed my fuel pressure gauge today and the stock lift pump is producing about 12 psi at idle and about 5-7 under hard acceleration so it isn't too bad I guess. Now I will be able to monitor if I have a fuel pickup issue in my tank if the gauge drops when it shouldn't, but I still need to pull the tank and look at the sending unit. I did release the "air lock" at the top of the fuel filter once I went for a ride.

Dan, I would disagree. Your lift pump is at the bare min. allowable pressure at idle. The owner's manual calls out 10 psi but in my opinion, anything at anytime less than 12 psi and damage to the VP-44 is possible. In my opinion, you need to replace that lift pump ASAP. You should also replace the fuel filter as the large pressure drop differential indicates a potentially restricted fuel filter. Most of the OEM replacement pumps are the Airtex E7153 that you can purchase as most autoparts stores. They run anywhere from $140 to $170 and do an adequate job for stock engines. The Airtex pump on my wife's truck still makes about 18-19 psi static and will pull down to about 14-15 psi on a hard pull with a clean fuel filter. The nice thing about these Airtex pumps is that they are drop in and fit in the same place on the engine the OEM Carter pump did. You can later move it to the frame below the fuel tank when and if you decide to install a big line kit. The Airtex is plug and play. Mounted in the stock OEM location the Airtex pump looses about 2 - 3 psi as opposed to the frame below the tank location. Another nice thing about the Airtex pump is that if there is a problem with it during the warranty period, you can just return it and get another one at the local auto parts store. My experience has been that they are very reliable and run much quieter than the junk Carter pumps. Advanced Auto has them for $161.99 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Electric-Inline-Fuel-Pump-Airtex_18770617-P_52_R%7CGRPFUE2AMS_1146135335___ A bit of a warning.....DO NOT install or even attempt to test fit the 90 degree dorman fitting on the Airtex pump UNLESS you are going to install it in the stock OEM location with the stock OEM Dorman fitting. Once you install it (you can hear a little click when sliding it on) it IS ON. There is no way to remove it without a special tool to release the spring clamp inside. Ask me how I know this. :bang: Yes, the Air Dog and FASS are far superior pumps and the best option. In my opinion, if you are going to install the Raptor, you may as well install the Air Dog of FASS. If you are gonna stay stock.......get the Airtex. Edited December 31, 2009 by LiveOak

[Racer Dan]

Actually I installed the fuel pressure gauge before the filter so it is actually reading where the fuel goes into the filter housing after it leaves the pump. I will need to go for a ride and get another reading as I still had an airlock in the top of the filter housing after I installed the new banjo bolt and should have bled it right away but I was too cold and wanted to get going. I drove to a friends shop and bumped the starter and bled it just before I came home but I didn't get into the throttle hard enough to see what the pressure drop was. I still have to hook up the light for the gauge too. I was going to tie it into the ashtray light circuit but I was cold and said it can wait til tomorrow. That Airtex pump is about $300 in Canada so I would need another trip to Detroit to get it. I just don't have the money to do anything else on this truck. 2009 was a bad year financially but 2010 will be alot better and then I'll get the fuel deal sorted out. Thanks for the imput, I do appreciate that.

[LiveOak]

Actually I installed the fuel pressure gauge before the filter so it is actually reading where the fuel goes into the filter housing after it leaves the pump. I will need to go for a ride and get another reading as I still had an airlock in the top of the filter housing after I installed the new banjo bolt and should have bled it right away but I was too cold and wanted to get going. I drove to a friends shop and bumped the starter and bled it just before I came home but I didn't get into the throttle hard enough to see what the pressure drop was. I still have to hook up the light for the gauge too. I was going to tie it into the ashtray light circuit but I was cold and said it can wait til tomorrow. That Airtex pump is about $300 in Canada so I would need another trip to Detroit to get it. I just don't have the money to do anything else on this truck. 2009 was a bad year financially but 2010 will be alot better and then I'll get the fuel deal sorted out. Thanks for the imput, I do appreciate that.

That is not a good place to take fuel pressure. The pressure the VP-44 is seeing is very likely considerably less than the 5-7 psi you mentioned. You should take fuel pressure AFTER the fuel filter so you can be alerted to a restricted or clogged fuel filter. Most folks just tape into the VP-44 schraeder valve. I hear ya about money being short and time being tough. As long as you take it easy on the go pedal, you should be able to maintain the fuel pressure in the upper range and nurse it along until you can get a new lift pump. As a rule it is VERY wise to keep a spare, especially if you are out in isolated/rural area's where you may not have access to a parts store. Sorry, I missed the part that you are in Canada. WOW! That is a BIG difference in price. Good luck with it and hopefully she will hold up until you can get the new pump installed.

[Racer Dan]

Actually my fuel filter is new and I am going to keep changing it so I don't have a problem there. I didn't want to put the gauge after the filter today since I had to drill/tap the banjo bolt and didn't want to risk there being a little piece of metal that would go into the VP44 so I figured for now I would just put it between the LP and the filter to be safe for the holiday weekend anyway. The lift pump is about 3 weeks old and I put a new rotor in it that I had made that is solid and doesn't have the plastic coupler in it that always strips out and fails as the stock rotors do just for piece of mind. I'm pretty good at nursing the pedal since I can't afford to drive the way that I would really like to, lol.

[Hood Latch]

I think I have decide on the OEM Airtex at this time. From what I understand, it should provide adequate pressure and allows me to keep the factory fuel filter/heater set up. As commented before, my truck is stock and will probably stay that way. If I decide later that I need more power, I would certainly look to the Air Dog or FASS on the frame close to the tank. But, for now I think the Airtex should suffice. I am going to do the job this coming week and I want to install a fuel pressure gauge at the same time. I sort of have that boiled down to the ISS PRO or the PRICOL, any thoughts about my choices, and the pro's and con's of wether I should use electronic or mechanical. I was thinking that the mechanical might be more accurate and therefore more reliable, but, was wondering about any problems with fuel leaks at the gauge as time go's by. Thank's for your time......Hood Latch

[Mopar1973Man]

It looks like my fuel tank will be my next project on this non-stop work on my truck lately, lol. I installed my fuel pressure gauge today and the stock lift pump is producing about 12 psi at idle and about 5-7 under hard acceleration so it isn't too bad I guess. Now I will be able to monitor if I have a fuel pickup issue in my tank if the gauge drops when it shouldn't, but I still need to pull the tank and look at the sending unit. I did release the "air lock" at the top of the fuel filter once I went for a ride.

Dan your fuel puel should stay in the green zone... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=231 55 MPH to 70 MPH WOT... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRoZlLVVxiY]YouTube- Stable fuel pressure - AirDog 150[/ame] So your pressure fall is pointing towards line resriction or just lack of volume from the pump... I would consider next the Vulcan Big Line Kit. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/vpps9804.htm At that rate you so close to the AirDog 150... Edited January 2, 2010 by Mopar1973Man

[LiveOak]

I strongly agree with Mike on the Vulcan Big Line Kit. This kit will make the installation of the fuel pressure gauge a lot easier and convenient. With no banjo fittings to mess with and 1/2 rubber fuel lines is is a matter of cutting into the rubber fuel line between the fuel filter cannister and the VP-44 and joining the 2 pieces with a fuel pressure Tee:

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fuel-Pressure-Tee-1-2-push-lock-p/fpt8.htm

Vulcan sells a ISSPRO EV 0-30 PSI Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit that includes everything you need to mount the fuel pressure gauge minus the mount. This include a 30 in universal fuel hose that with threaded ends that will thread into the fuel presure Tee and the fuel isolator.

If you are just installing a fuel pressure gauge, this mount worked out great in my wife's truck. There was no cutting or modifying the truck interior, just had to remove some of the gauge brass mount stud on the back to clear the inside of the pod housing:

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fuel-Pressure-Tester-with-Schrader-Connection-p/scp.htm

My recommendation would be to install a full set of gauges on the A pillar but that is a lot more expense and work. In my wife's case, I was lucky to get her to pay attention to just 1 fuel pressure gauge. She would be overwhelmed with a boost and egt gauge. That would just be TOO MANY "thingies" to keep up with. I gave her a quick instruction and demo to let me know ANYTIME the fuel pressure drops below 15 psi.

So far this lift pump setup has performed very well and adequate to the task. It does its part and makes 18- 19 psi fuel pressure. The only time fuel pressure has dropped below 15 psi is when the fuel filter became restricted. I think there is either some crud in the fuel tank or diesel fuel quality is just not up to par because I have been required to replace the fuel filter about every 1,500 to 2,000 miles since I started using the Baldwind PF 7977 micron fuel filters. They catch a LOT more fuel contamination than the Fleetguard filters. A much better filter in my opinion.

The Vulcan Big Line Lift Pump Relocation Kit will give you 1/2 inch fuel line from the lift pump all the way up to the VP-44 AND relocate the lift pump to the frame below the fuel tank which will make any potential replacement or work on the lift pump a snap and a matter of about 30 minutes to replace taking your time.

In my opinion, this is a great alround setup for a STOCK power train. Again, I remind, if you stray from stock.......install the Air Dog or FASS.

[Hood Latch]

I strongly agree with Mike on the Vulcan Big Line Kit. This kit will make the installation of the fuel pressure gauge a lot easier and convenient. With no banjo fittings to mess with and 1/2 rubber fuel lines is is a matter of cutting into the rubber fuel line between the fuel filter cannister and the VP-44 and joining the 2 pieces with a fuel pressure Tee:

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fuel-Pressure-Tee-1-2-push-lock-p/fpt8.htm

Vulcan sells a ISSPRO EV 0-30 PSI Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit that includes everything you need to mount the fuel pressure gauge minus the mount. This include a 30 in universal fuel hose that with threaded ends that will thread into the fuel presure Tee and the fuel isolator.

If you are just installing a fuel pressure gauge, this mount worked out great in my wife's truck. There was no cutting or modifying the truck interior, just had to remove some of the gauge brass mount stud on the back to clear the inside of the pod housing:

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fuel-Pressure-Tester-with-Schrader-Connection-p/scp.htm

My recommendation would be to install a full set of gauges on the A pillar but that is a lot more expense and work. In my wife's case, I was lucky to get her to pay attention to just 1 fuel pressure gauge. She would be overwhelmed with a boost and egt gauge. That would just be TOO MANY "thingies" to keep up with. I gave her a quick instruction and demo to let me know ANYTIME the fuel pressure drops below 15 psi.

So far this lift pump setup has performed very well and adequate to the task. It does its part and makes 18- 19 psi fuel pressure. The only time fuel pressure has dropped below 15 psi is when the fuel filter became restricted. I think there is either some crud in the fuel tank or diesel fuel quality is just not up to par because I have been required to replace the fuel filter about every 1,500 to 2,000 miles since I started using the Baldwind PF 7977 micron fuel filters. They catch a LOT more fuel contamination than the Fleetguard filters. A much better filter in my opinion.

The Vulcan Big Line Lift Pump Relocation Kit will give you 1/2 inch fuel line from the lift pump all the way up to the VP-44 AND relocate the lift pump to the frame below the fuel tank which will make any potential replacement or work on the lift pump a snap and a matter of about 30 minutes to replace taking your time.

In my opinion, this is a great alround setup for a STOCK power train. Again, I remind, if you stray from stock.......install the Air Dog or FASS.

Live Oak, Do I understand correctly that the Vulcan Big Line Kit would : (1) Run a 1/2" rubber line from the tank directly to the Airtex pump which would be installed on the frame close to the fuel tank, (2) Then run a 1/2' rubber line from the Airtex to the inlet side of the stock fuel filter/heater housing, (3) Then run a 1/2" rubber line from the outlet side of fuel filter/heater housing to the vp44, (4) I would install the Vulcan "tee" in the line between the fuel filter housing and the vp44 for the fuel pressure gauge. Sorry if my questions might seem to be a little repetative about this subject, I just like to get all the info I can before I move ahead. Thanks....Hood Latch

[LiveOak]

Live Oak, Do I understand correctly that the Vulcan Big Line Kit would : (1) Run a 1/2" rubber line from the tank directly to the Airtex pump which would be installed on the frame close to the fuel tank, (2) Then run a 1/2' rubber line from the Airtex to the inlet side of the stock fuel filter/heater housing, (3) Then run a 1/2" rubber line from the outlet side of fuel filter/heater housing to the vp44, (4) I would install the Vulcan "tee" in the line between the fuel filter housing and the vp44 for the fuel pressure gauge. Sorry if my questions might seem to be a little repetative about this subject, I just like to get all the info I can before I move ahead. Thanks....Hood Latch

Not quite. The Big Line Kit will allow you to relocate the lift pump to the truck frame below the fuel tank and allow the lift pump to hook up to the factory OEM line running along the truck frame. I believe the OEM fuel line along the frame is 5/16". The 1/2" rubber fuel line would run from the relocated lift pump on the frame. The rest of what you posted is correct. In order to get a true 1/2" fuel line from the tank to the lift pump, you would have to install one of the 1/2" Draw Straw kits in the tank such as: http://www.vulcanperformance.com/DrawStraw-V-HiFlow-p/dsv.htm or you could replace the entire fuel tank basket: http://www.vulcanperformance.com/DrawStraw-V-HiFlow-p/jlfmds.htm For stock application and even mild performance upgrades, the OEM fuel line will work. If you use the OEM fuel line on the frame, you just have to cut it off to proper length and clamp a piece of rubber fuel line the proper size so as to adapt to the inlet side of the relocated lift pump. Did I make that clear as mud???

[Hood Latch]

Thank's LiveOak, that is much clearer than mud..Hood Latch

[LiveOak]

Thank's LiveOak, that is much clearer than mud..Hood Latch

I am excellent at making things clear as mud.

[edcasey]

Not quite. The Big Line Kit will allow you to relocate the lift pump to the truck frame below the fuel tank and allow the lift pump to hook up to the factory OEM line running along the truck frame. I believe the OEM fuel line along the frame is 5/16". The 1/2" rubber fuel line would run from the relocated lift pump on the frame. The rest of what you posted is correct.

In order to get a true 1/2" fuel line from the tank to the lift pump, you would have to install one of the 1/2" Draw Straw kits in the tank such as:

Live Oak the system you are talking about is actually the The Vulcan Pusher Pump system http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/vpps9804.htm which sell for $115.00 plus $9.99 for the Airtex adapter. The Big line kit is $33.99 and connects the fuel filter canister to the injection pump. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/ffvpu.htm.

[LiveOak]

Live Oak the system you are talking about is actually the The Vulcan Pusher Pump system http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/vpps9804.htm which sell for $115.00 plus $9.99 for the Airtex adapter. The Big line kit is $33.99 and connects the fuel filter canister to the injection pump. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/ffvpu.htm.

That is what I initially posted the link to back on page 1 of this thread.

[Wild and Free]

Dan your fuel puel should stay in the green zone... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=231 ..

Mike where did you get that gauge from and is it a mechanical or electrical gauge?

[Racer Dan]

Since I need a new sending unit anyway I might as well just buy this:

Looking for a drop in no hassle fuel supply solution?

We take a brand new module unit and install our 1/2" DSV system so all you have to do is drop it in, make the connections and go!

These units have 3/8 and 5/16 Dorman type male connections for the return lines and either a 1/2 or 3/8 supply connection. No need to cut into your filler neck for our FASS or AirDog return line. Both return lines go into the module bucket to help replenish the fuel supply when fuel levels are low.

Sending unit plugs in the same as OEM, all have new sending units and floats. Replaces in-tank pump module.

Comes with JIC pushlock swivel connection in 3/8 or 1/2" for pump connection.

Make supply line size selection below.

If you need a 1/2" return adapter for your AirDog system select the option below.

Our Price: $199.99

Product Code: JLFMDS

1/2" 140 mic prescreen filter [Add $8.99]

3/8" 140 mic prescreen filter [Add $5.99]

Dorman adapter 3/8 to 1/2" barb AirDog [Add $6.99]

Dorman adapter 3/8 to 3/8" barb FASS [Add $4.99]

Supply Line Size*: 1/2"

3/8"

[edcasey]

I think I have decide on the OEM Airtex at this time. From what I understand, it should provide adequate pressure and allows me to keep the factory fuel filter/heater set up.

Just be sure you use a pre-filter before the Airtex. It's a roller vane pump and they will fail quickly if they are pumping fuel with large particles in it. I know most people don't bother but that probably explains why some people get a few years out of them and some just a few months.

[Mopar1973Man]

Mike where did you get that gauge from and is it a mechanical or electrical gauge?

1. Mechanical Gauge 2. DiPricol 3. No you can't buy one... Because its a old school Dipricol that's been photoshop'ed! Here is the actual gauge... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/gauges.htm

[Racer Dan]

Good link Michael, thanks as I need to do all of this stuff.