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Alright guys anybody know the exact years with the KDP? Mines an 01 sport model. And is there a way to tell if you've got the upgraded crankcase that prevents this problem with out taking it apart? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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01 should be alright. the upgraded case went with the VP44. The older case was for the P7100. The pumps are in a different spot on the case. On mine I wanted to make sure the case bolts were tight, so I tabbed mine and check the bolts. One of them was not as tight as the others. So one bolt at a time I removed, cleaned and Loc-tight them. Also I had a leak at the crank and the kit had a new seal. So for me it was worth the time to fix.

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From what I understand the KDP was still an issue up until about 2000. If you are concerned just pick up a new crank seal and in about 2 1/2 hours you can check the KDP and have your truck back together. That way you are certain it will be fine. Klcammie, what do you mean the pumps are in a different spot on the case? They use the same hole (with different mounting) and the gear is the same size as the 12V engines too.

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Ok well if the issue was resolved by 2000 I should be fine. Mopar1973Man, off topic here but I have a question in regards to the crank case breather bottle. According to the Manuel your supposed to empty them out at every oil change so If I do that there would be no need for the mod correct? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Ok well if the issue was resolved by 2000 I should be fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have posted this before. NO rig through '02 is exempt. Dave Conrad's (Fishin2deep4U) Dad lost one in his '02. Dave posted the repair bill on another forum after it was repaired. Only way to tell for sure is pull the cover and physically look. Less chance of it on newer ones but still the chance.
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Seems I read something about the P7100 was a heavier pump and was mounted different. Must Have misunderstood what I read. Sorry for the confusion, it;s a good thing lots of people chime in.

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Ok well if the issue was resolved by 2000 I should be fine. Mopar1973Man, off topic here but I have a question in regards to the crank case breather bottle. According to the Manuel your supposed to empty them out at every oil change so If I do that there would be no need for the mod correct? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

IMO do the mod. Even if you empty it twice for every oil change you would still get the oily mist from it everytime you run the engine. That mist gets allover the engine radiator and attracts dirt like a magnet. Do a search on rads and look at the pix. You will be amazed at the clogged rads.

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I have an 02. I just installed the fuel boss mechanical lift pump. Before I started this project my engine was a horriblle greasy mess. More than likely from the puke bottle but there was so much grease everywhere (and I mean everywhere including the radiator) that I decided to not only to delete the puke bottle, but change the front crank seal too, just to be sure. So I spent 2 days meticulously scraping/degreasing/pressure washing. Yay! finally shiny clean new looking. Took it all apart, Dowel pin was fine, Center punched the perimeter to lock it in place (no, I didnt tab it). While in there I took out all of the accessible timing case bolts, used medium strength blue loc-tie and re-torqued to spec. Some seemed sort of loose but not alarmingly so. Put in a new crank seal (take your time, it's tricky) sealed it up with grey rtv, put it all back together & no leaks. A couple points to ponder: Did not need the "special" wrenches to take fan apart. Easy to take off just undo the 10mm bolts holding it to the block. You will need to slightly grind the box end of a wrench to get the one bolt closest to the pulley. Way easier if you take the radiator out first (if you need to that is). take the the shroud off first and hang it loosely over the fan, then pull the radiator. Now you can easily remove the shroud and fan assy. If you are not removing the radiator then you gotta pull the fan and shroud out together. can be done alone but easier if you have an assistant. View my thread for details & gear case diagrams: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8556-Going-to-kill-the-KDP-soon-advice Another note, while installing my fuel boss I noticed that the majority of my oil pan bolts were way loose, litterally hand tight. Glad I noticed.

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Damn Ironforger do u travel I've got a Cummins in need lol!

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- - - Updated - - -

IronForger, First off great info! I'm getting ready to do all listed above to mine come spring, waiting for the wheather to warm up plus it gives me alot of time to research, and figure out or get step by step instructons how how to do this job! I do however have a few quesions for you. #1 what did you do to delete your "puke bottle" im guessing you mean the mod right? #2 the torque for the bolts are 18lb's right? #3 Where do I go to get this shop manuel I am reading about? Thanks in advance for your info!:thumb1:

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Chris, You can get the Factory service manual right here on mopar1973man.com. Go up to the downloads area. I did the puke bottle delete as detailed here: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1514-Mopar1973Man-s-Crankcase-Vent-Modification Here are a few pictures of my setup. Pretty much just like instructed in the thread with PVC and fittings. I ran it up over the motor, zip tied to the back engine lift eyelet, the a couple of 45 degree bends down, a short straight down pipe then connected 3/4 heater hose to run along the frame rail & exit out the back. Caveat: I put a male/male heater hose connector just under the drivers side floor to make an easy dissconect. Makes it easy to remove the whole over the motor PVC assembly if ever needed to work on the motor/remove tappet cover etc. On another note, if you do remove the radiator it sure makes it easier, more room to work with & if you are skinny like me you can get right in the engine bay. I replaced all coolant hoses & standing in there sure made it easy to reach the heater hoses coming off the top of the head to the heater core. Definitely order the molded 90 degree heater hoses in advance. A straight hose will kink just off the head outlet. I'll be detailing my fuel boss setup in one of my other threads as soon as I get a chance. Click images to view full size. post-12776-138698211571_thumb.jpg

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I'm puzzled.

My 1998.5 Cummins does not have a PUKE bottle. My truck is all oem except the BHAF. So if I don't have the PUKE bottle, where does the Puke go? 

 

Also if my front Gear cover does not have the Puke bottle does this indicate the newer updated front cover that secures the KDP.

 

Kerley

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If you don't have the puke bottle it probably fell off and the oil is now clogging your radiator. The only way to tell if you have an updated case is to take the front cover off.

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Ok well if the issue was resolved by 2000 I should be fine. Mopar1973Man, off topic here but I have a question in regards to the crank case breather bottle. According to the Manuel your supposed to empty them out at every oil change so If I do that there would be no need for the mod correct? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My 1998.5 Cummins has no crank case breather bottle. Did all Cummins oem have this bottle ? I'm going to check the KDP and replace the front crank seals, is there anything else I should check or repair while It's opened up ?

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Late model 01, upgraded housing where the hole is smaller than the pin. NO KDP.

 

My understanding is that for up to the 01 MY it is pretty much hit and miss on the stepped hole for the KDP.

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My understanding is that for up to the 01 MY it is pretty much hit and miss on the stepped hole for the KDP.

It appears so. I've read of people installing the tab even with the upgraded housing too?

My 1998.5 Cummins has no crank case breather bottle. Did all Cummins oem have this bottle ? I'm going to check the KDP and replace the front crank seals, is there anything else I should check or repair while It's opened up ?

Check the gasket between the block and timing case, it's paper. Mine was shot and actually fell in the case in some places. The downside is the case needs to be removed to replace the gasket because one of the gears is pressed into the case...I believe. I just did a patch job with rtv but it was a patch.

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If you have the upgraded housing you won't need to tab it. I have tabbed KDPs in about 2 1/2 hours start to finish with only hand tools in my driveway.

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My 98.5 has the crankcase vent on the back of the engine, l believe the lifter cover is from the early 12v engines. They used this cover on some of the first 24v engine.

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I wish I could find a tappet cover off a junk 12 valve, or better yet an enclosed CCV system for the ISBs just randomly laying around.

I was peering into my radiator between it and the intercooler and it's looking pretty knarly. Gonna have to come out for a good cleaning come spring time. Gonna pull the front cover and check the pin just to be safe. Going to replace the damper while I'm in there, trying to decide whether or not the Fluid damper is worth the extra coin or just go with OEM replacementat. Gotta get her prepped for a few good road trips coming up this summer.

Oh the joys of maintaining a 15 year old truck.

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