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Brake pad replacement?


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I have a bad pad that's grinding. I'm going to do a full brake job later, but need to buy some time. I want to replace the pads. Any words of wisdom? I guess I need to lube the sleeves that mount the calipers and make sure they're sliding. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

DO NOT get ceramic pads! They heat up and won't stop, especially if you've got weight...it's scary
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IIRC, I think they are called metallic brake pads. I was told several years ago to never buy anything, but. IIRC, it was something along the lines of allowing the rotors to last alot longer, but the pads would wear a bit quicker. They also have better braking performance and are cheaper. I think the guy compared them to the ceramics and said steer clear of ceramics. So in this case, cheaper is better! Also, take a look at this! http://www.genosgarage.com/GenosGarageTechArticles/TDR51_BrakePadSpottersGuide.pdf http://www.genosgarage.com/GenosGarageTechArticles/TDR50_BrakeUtopia.pdf

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I'll never use ceramic pads! The cars I work on get the semi-metallic pads. With quality brake pads the rotors will last 2-3 pad changes be for going undersized. With ceramic pad you'll be changing the rotors every pad replacement. Brake manufactures are trying to balance stopping distance,heat dissipation, longevity, dust, and noise.

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I typically buy the absolute cheapest pads so to get the least amount of metallics in the pads. Being I use a exhaust brake for 95% of my braking and the service brakes at speeds typically below 25 MPH. I got 185k from the OE pads and only needed to turn barely 0.005 to 0.010 inches of the rotors.

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Roughly about $1200... Problem is that you only get exhaust brake in 3rd and 4th gears. now if you modify the Valve Body you can get 2nd gear lockup and exhaust brake in in 2nd gear. Strange thing I bought mine back when the truck was barely a year old and only paid $700 for my Jacobs Brake. :shrug:

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