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Weird Engine Grunt Maybe Timing?


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Is there an easy way to test if air or compression is being pumped into the tank? Will pulling the return life off while the engine is running and letting it pour into a bucket show if there is any aeration from an injector seal? Right now I have to drive around with my fuel cap loose so that I don't build tons of pressure inside the tank. Thanks again for all the help!

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If your getting pressure into the tank from an injector you should probably pull the valve cover and check all 12 bolts on the injectors for being tight. If one has come loose this could cause an injector to lift and let compression gasses into the tank from the return line. Even with the crossover tube in it can still lift slightly.

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Update: Today I pulled the truck into the shop and dropped the tank. From there I pulled the return line and ran it into a can. Holding the line under a decent amount of fuel it was obvious tons of air was being pumped into the return lines. So I pulled all of the injectors and ordered a set of injector O rings, cross over tube O rings, and copper washers. One of the injectors was completely black below the O ring, so I'm pretty sure that was the leaking injector. I am considering a new set of 100 horse injectors while I have everything apart. One question: Is there some special way to clean or where the copper washers seat inside the head? 

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Update: Today I pulled the truck into the shop and dropped the tank. From there I pulled the return line and ran it into a can. Holding the line under a decent amount of fuel it was obvious tons of air was being pumped into the return lines. So I pulled all of the injectors and ordered a set of injector O rings, cross over tube O rings, and copper washers. One of the injectors was completely black below the O ring, so I'm pretty sure that was the leaking injector. I am considering a new set of 100 horse injectors while I have everything apart. One question: Is there some special way to clean or where the copper washers seat inside the head? 

 

Click the box above titled 'articles".................Mike has a couple write ups in there about 2nd gen injector removal and cleaning.

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I would look a bit closer at that injector hole then with a camera, you may have a cracked head. What did the copper sealing washer look like?

 

Parts jobbers carry a very good snake camera under 150 bucks, we have several at work including some that are several thousand dollars and this is the go to camera for all, it has the smallest tip and the clearest view on the display.

 

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARZ604-Alkaline-Battery-Digital-Inspection/dp/B004P643LM

 

61tZR1n05gL._SL1500_.jpg

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The sealing ring had a spot that looked like it was blowing right past it, and the bottom of that injector below the O ring was pure black. The rest of the injectors appear to be ok. I have a buddy with a snap-on camera that I can use... Thank you for that advice! Tomorrow I will see if I can get the injectors down to be flow and pop tested. If they are bad, I am going to buy a set of DAP 100 horse injectors! 

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Just a thought, if you do go with the 100hp sticks, you might want to go with a bigger turbo or twins even. I had 100hp sticks are they were completely impossible to tow with still using the hx35.

A new turbo will be coming soon as well. Thank you for the advice

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Update: Today I installed a set of 100 horse DAP injectors, and all problems have stopped! No more air pumping through the return lines and pressurizing my tank. To clean the holes out i used a 12 gauge shotgun cleaner and bent the brass down so that it would remove the carbon build up from the leaking injector seals. 

As for the injectors, I was told that it may run hot with the stock turbo, but with the smarty on level 9 The tuning is almost perfect! 33 pounds of boost and manageable egt's. I'm sure if I tapped my pump with the edge comp I would be in trouble with the egts, but for now it is tuned almost perfectly. Thanks again everyone for the suggestions and help!

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Cool, keep us posted on that combination. Also, how are those 100s, smokey? powerful?!!! Hopefully sometime this summer I'll have some money for a super b or s300g style. The super b is rated for 425 but the flow rate, cfms, is rated for up to 500HP! I'll see if I can post the chart...

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I think the super b is a 58/65/14 and the he351 is a 60/60/9. From what I've been reading both those turbos are awesome for 400 HP and both capable of 500 HP. There was a huge article where some guy ran just about every aftermarket turbo on his commonrail, super b special, ats 4000, fleece modified he351 and some others, I can't remember them all but the stock he351 was the best suited across the board

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Cool, keep us posted on that combination. Also, how are those 100s, smokey? powerful?!!! Hopefully sometime this summer I'll have some money for a super b or s300g style. The super b is rated for 425 but the flow rate, cfms, is rated for up to 500HP! I'll see if I can post the chart...

I LOVE these injectors. My engine is probably half as loud as it was before when it is idling and at higher throttle. The injectors are very powerful with just the smarty! 33 pounds of boost out of the stock turbo,(1300 egt) and I can run right with my brother's 05 which has as smarty jr. intake, and exhaust. As for smoke, it all depends on how you drive it... It can black out 4 lanes of highway without a problem, or you can drive it nice and have zero smoke out of it. Honestly best thing I have done for the truck so far. 

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:thumb1:

 

I just put my comp back on 5x5 today, it was on 5x1 before. Amazingly, I had very little smoke on accel!

 

On a pretty good pull, I jad 35psi of boost, 1300 egts and was going 65 in nothing flat! I forgot how much power and how hard it acceled on 5x5!

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