sell 02 for ? 03-05

[Killer223]

so ive had several offers for my 02. in and around the 13-15K range. i've been thinking about a long bed for a while now. i have a 5th wheel and a super glide slider but it doesnt slid fast enough to not let my new TT contact my truck. so a long bed is in mind.

now there is the debate of 04-04.5 why the newer one? are they really worth it? around here they are 4-5K over a much much cleaner 04. i know they have 325 HP but really? 5 grand is a lot. for 20 HP.

 

i've found a really frikin clean 04. built 12/03 for 14.5K and a well used and abused 04.5 for 19K. the 04.5 had 128K miles. 04 has 182K and is in WAY better condition.

 

or should i keep my ol 02 qcsb. it needs both differentials rebuilt. gears n all. i'm tired of sinking money into it. last year it got new transmission. new tires. new steering, new control arms, new u-joints. new glass. i'm done.

maybe i need some outside thoughts on the subject.

 

sorry if some of this makes no sense. i've had a few beers. it is after all St.Patrick day.,

[joecool911]

The 03-05's are nice trucks. Just depends on how you feel about starting all over with service. It's taken me a couple years and some money to get to where I am. Every different vehicle I buy never meets my satisfaction of maintenance. So I end up doing a bunch of stuff. Some im super glad I did and other times I find it was unnecessary, but at least I know where I stand.

[Killer223]

true, but i had to replace parts from failure. my in-tank pump still worked great. producing 25+ psi all the time. the trans took a dump on me, forcing me to rebuild it. the brakes were shot needed new rotors. i'm just tired of dumping what seems to be tons of cash into this truck. if i go any more i won't get out of it what i have into it. makes me want to get out while the gettins good.

[YabbaDoo]

Well I just bought my 97 in October 2 weeks before my annual fall trip to the mountains, and on anything that I don't know the maintenance on I am going to just do it to be sure... I did and oil/filter change (Amsoil), had the transmission serviced( fluid/filter/adjust the bands) by a really good shop in Brooksville (Brooksville Transmission) , Repacked the bearings, installed new belt and tensioner, fuel filter, air filter, and a new Fluidampr (that part alone is over 400.00)... I have also replaced the FSS and relay and the rear speed sensor. 

[JAG1]

IMHO, there is nothing better than owning a truck outright knowing whats been done to it (building it right) and knowing everything about what it will need, to build it right.

 

Even if I bought a newer truck I'd still dump a bunch just getting it to where my old rig was (talking reliable upgrades and service).

 

Killer, if you still have the intank pump, (very bad set up) showing 25 psi, somethings wrong with your gauge set up too.....need to change the whole fuel system IMHO.

 

On a side note.... my 02 is perfect... looks like a new truck, lots of savings spent just to make it reliable (built right) I would not want to go thru that again and I paid 26 k for the truck to begin with.

Edited March 18, 2014 by JAG1

[Killer223]

Killer, if you still have the intank pump, (very bad set up) showing 25 psi, somethings wrong with your gauge set up too.....need to change the whole fuel system IMHO.

 

 

people keep telling me this. but it's true. my gauge works fine. as does the three other's i've tried to double check it. it flows an amazing amount of fuel. im sure it's just fine. 

thank you for your input though. both of you.

i've just getting very tired of dumping more and more cash into this truck.

[Wild and Free]

Jumping up just 1-2 years will not change the amount of cash and work you could be sticking into a rig, you are still taking a chance when buying a 10 year old rig.

 

If you want to get away from this buy a used one with factory warranty remaining yet.

 

I buy all of my vehicles with at least a years worth of factory warranty left or usually under 25K miles so I can nit pick the heck out of it. Overall it doesn't cost anymore money to pay the bit extra up front when you save the money pit and constant worrying going forward.

[JAG1]

Killler, what is the fuel pressure under a load or say... half throttle?

Edited March 18, 2014 by JAG1

[Killer223]

Half with edge on 5 it drops to 23, wot it only gets to 19-20.

I run with edge on 3 though. So rarely see it under 23

[Ilikeoldfords]

Are you still running both the block and the intank pumps?? If so, thats why you have such high numbers.

[JAG1]

Are you still running both the block and the intank pumps?? If so, thats why you have such high numbers.

If not I'd have to say those pressures can't be right The consenses on TDR is those pumps won't give off more than about 7-8 psi under light load. Can't remember exact number but, too low for vp cooling as I remember reading.

[JAG1]

I think fixing an old truck, as long as it's not too far gone, is like putting money in the bank for the long run.

 

Anybody can go get a new/ newer truck but, those that can bank the money, go the long haul as Cummins intended when designing these engines, that's the key to smart truckin' right there.

 

But, if the truck is too far gone that's different.

Edited March 18, 2014 by JAG1

[Killer223]

Are you still running both the block and the intank pumps?? If so, thats why you have such high numbers.

 

 

If not I'd have to say those pressures can't be right The consenses on TDR is those pumps won't give off more than about 7-8 psi under light load. Can't remember exact number but, too low for vp cooling as I remember reading.

 

Yes i am,. i care not what the consensus says, i know these number are right. if you feel the urge to double check my work then come on over. every forum i've posted to about these calls bull sh*t. yet no one wants to put up and test it. i know what my truck does, the pumps were this way when i purchased the truck. i checked the FP at the VP with a Matco pressure gauge, it was close to 28, even at WOT it didn't drop all that much. i've put well over 50K on this truck using 2 cycle oil as an additive.

 

my main reasoning for the newer truck is a long bed. i wouldn't mind keeping my truck and putting another coupla grand into it if it were able to tow my 5th wheel with out rubbing the cab on turns.

 

i guess one of my concerns was the 04 vs 04.5 are they really all that the people say? seems like around here the 04.5 are liken to gold.

[JOHNFAK]

How many miles on your 02 ?

If you can get 15k I'd probably make the jump. But you'll put as much money in either.

I'll never get out of my 2nd gen though unless it's to go to a 1st gen.

[Killer223]

02 has 158, n some change. don't get me wrong. it runs awesome! i LOVE my truck. i have the superglide slider hitch, but my TT will rub the cab is i turn to sharp,

i'll have to rebuild both differentials if i am to keep it.

[diesel4life]

I would personally prefer an 03-04 truck as those model years did not have in cylinder EGR. If the truck suits you that much better then go for it. IMO there will not be enough of an increase in performance to make sense financially so it would have to make good sense body configuration wise. Virtually the same problems your experiencing on your truck are still problematic on the early 3rd gens too so you might be facing the same maintenance headaches you are dealing with right now. I would stick with an NV5600 unless you find a sweet deal with an auto or find one that has already been upgraded. If you find a truck that has additional filtration that would be a bonus to me, as injectors are pretty pricey and OEM filtration was sub par.

[JAG1]

Yes i am,. i care not what the consensus says, i know these number are right. if you feel the urge to double check my work then come on over. every forum i've posted to about these calls bull sh*t. yet no one wants to put up and test it. i know what my truck does, the pumps were this way when i purchased the truck. i checked the FP at the VP with a Matco pressure gauge, it was close to 28, even at WOT it didn't drop all that much. i've put well over 50K on this truck using 2 cycle oil as an additive.

I'm not questioning your character Killer I was questioning your gauge reading merely because up to this point you said you had the intank pump nothing about an additional pump was said till later.

 

Also it best to tell the new buyer(s) about the differentials needing to be rebuilt, otherwise karma... universal balance...whatever.....won't turn around to bit you in the cheeks  

Edited March 19, 2014 by JAG1

[Ilikeoldfords]

Indeed. I wasnt saying anything bad about your testing skills either. Those pressure numbers are just a bit to high for me. I dont really like to run anything higher than 21-22 myself just for piece of mind that I wont blow fuel past the front VP44 seal.

 

If it were me, I would be looking toward a newer truck. I mean, whats a truck for anyway if not for useability. If the truck isnt suited well for what you use it for, time to either change the current one, or find one that is better suited for the task at hand. I say go for the newer truck. If nothing else, it will be really nice to have a crew cab. I also agree with trying to stick with the 6 speed or at least a decently built auto though.

 

Not to mention no more VP44 to deal with.

[mopartechnician]

03-early 04 get the best mileage. Also need a 2 micron fuel setup, but that is easy to do

[JOHNFAK]

If you can get 15k for it with 158k miles Id jump on it.

 

I have a 114k miles 2000 4x4 long bed with a $9k tranmission, new paint and tires and heavily modified and I would get around $18k. Point is more thats a great price for a near stock truck with that many miles ..... typically closer to $10-$12k depending on condition. Since you want a long bed - I jump out of it and do it.

 

good luck.