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Possible lift pump fix teaser

mopartechnician
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ABennin

ABennin

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My next project is a going to be a fuelab lift pump.  I have been reading as much as I can find on the forums(which isn't much).  I like the 100's price, but the 200 has the air separator too.  Not sure if that is needed, but that is the only other big difference besides the GPH.  Is that going on your truck or someone else's?

mopartechnician

mopartechnician

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Ya thats where im at too. But if my goes belly up im buying one. Any customer that needs a pump, I will push these. Never been a fass fan but the last one I did was a fass. Have only had a couple raptors go bad. So Im at a cross roads right now. I really dont need comebacks for stuff that isnt even my fault

Edited by mopartechnician
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Yankneck696

Yankneck696

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It's nice looking & decently built. My only gripe would be the filter capacity at flow/pressure. What I had planned wouldn't ever fit under the truck, due to the size of the filtering required to properly filter at our flows & pressures. I worked in the marine diesel industry for 15 years & wouldn't use a spin on filter of that size, except for under 3 liters on a diesel engine. I don;t care what the fuel pump companies "Claim" for filtering & flow, as I have done the studying. The only way that they can flow to 3 micron (My personal standard) is to use a real filter that is not "Nominally rated".

I have put everything on hold, due to another venture that (With some help) I can really revolutionize the 24 valve trucks & others in the future. It is slow going, but am hoping to get things cleared up this week & move forth on it.

 

I am by no means trying to demean your find, as it is pretty nice, but if you go to even Baldwin, you will be hardpressed to find actual ratings on flow vs. pressure for their filters. .And the claim of "Up to 98% of 6 micron (To ME) means absofrigginloutely NOTHING. It's like the old K&N claim "Filters better when it gets dirtier".... We all know how that worked out.

 

I have actually had my hands on a filter rating book we were (Against rules) slipped by the Detroit rep years ago & the ratings were horrible. There is no way in the world & could even think of using that garbage on someone's yacht, as people's safety & lives were at stake.

 

We ONLY used the reccomended name brand filters specced by the engine manufacturer & no cheap Baldwin or other stuff. There is only 1 manufacturer for almost ALL OEM filtering on diesel engines around the world & there is a reason for that. It may say "CAT" on the filter, but someone else makes it.

 

Ed

 

Sorry for the rant....

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mopartechnician

mopartechnician

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I know very little about filters. I just run what the "filter god" says to run. I am just looking for something that is more reliability. Not looking for filtration since he will be running a pf7977 in the stock housing

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Yankneck696

Yankneck696

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Posted (edited)

Your PF7977:

5 microns absolute, with an average efficiency of 99.31%. Water stripping: 97-99% free water, 92-95% emulsified water. And it has a dirt holding capacity of 25.5 grams. 509.1 sq in of filtration media...

 

In a marine application, if you used that , you would be risking safety & lives. If it was a charter/commercial boat & something happened, you could be held criminally liable. It also cannot handle the flow & PSI that are required for a mild engine build. Dirt & water will get forced through at WOT in a 450HP - 500 HP engine.

 

I am not trying to be argumentitive, just informative...

 

Ed

Edited by Yankneck696
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mopartechnician

mopartechnician

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But, what other options can you use. Espcially in the stock housing. I use the best filters that can be used. I understand what your saying, I work on locomotive that use three paper filters the size of five gallon buckets, a suction screen and two spin on fiters the size of a 2 liter bottles. And they run the cheapest fuel possible. The new common rail GE motors actually are using a 2 micron filter and a huge water seperater filter.

Yankneck696

Yankneck696

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Again, I am not saying it is a bad setup, but as you may know, proper water seperation & filtration takes up space & is usually more expensive than the pump itself. What I have is 22.5" tall & 8" round to handle a "Rated" 180 GPM @ 15PSI. It is also an "Aquablock" filter element that will not pass a single molecule of water. Absolute filtering is 3 micron with no percentages added on at all. Yeah, it's stupid big & overkill, but it's the industry standard & probably the same brand on your locomotives.

 

Ed

Ilikeoldfords

Ilikeoldfords

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All I can say is its a good thing that we are driving down a road instead of being stuck out in the ocean somewhere. At least we can pull over. I want as much successful  filtration as the next guy but there is a limit to what makes sense to use and what doesnt. If anyone should be worried about the filtration qualities, I would think that it should be the people with common rails. With all the injector issues they have they need all the filtering they can get!!

Yankneck696

Yankneck696

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Posted

If I do go into the pump/filtration world, it will mostly be competition pullers & drag racers. Yeah, it'll have to go in the bed of the truck. The Wanna-bees will pay top dollar for it.

For the Commonrails, the worst thing is getting a few molecules of water into a stroked CP pump, as they destruct when the water molecule turns to steam under the pressure. Then all the rest gets sent downstream.

 

Ed

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