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Brutus is down :(

CUMMINSDIESELPWR
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CUMMINSDIESELPWR

CUMMINSDIESELPWR

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its not a washer, it came off a cast aluminum something and it was a half tab that a bolt held onto like a half hole cut onto a plate edge and a bolt held half of something and half of this...   but its not from the engine it is pot aluminum (cast) its very light and non ferrous

 

i do have the oil, and the stuff in the pan ill be filtering the oil soon.  this i think was already in the filter when i installed it, the pump is in top shape and no signs of foreign intrusion.  Taking everything apart i didnt see anything missing or half washers...  I think i got a junk filter with sh!t in it.

 

inspect your filters before installation and shake them out i guess :( no more purolator pure ones for me.

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rancherman

rancherman

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hold on a sec ! 

 

Oil   goes  through the cooler first,  then the filter...   Don't blame the filter  just yet!      

 

 

oil pump...   pressure regulator..........cooler  THEN     filter head.     Unless  I  mis read  your post,  and   am  thinking   'wrong passageway'.

 

Take  a  knife,  and  see how  'soft'   it is.     There's  some pretty good   stuff  that is  light as  aluminum..   but  much harder

Edited by rancherman
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CUMMINSDIESELPWR

CUMMINSDIESELPWR

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so good news, machine shop said the crank polished perfect so .STD bearings will be ordered and the head only needed .004 removed to true it up so i should still be able to use a stock head gasket. my valve tool came in from cumminsperformanceparts.com for $45

just need to order bearings and start assembly when they arrive

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Edited by CUMMINSDIESELPWR
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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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The machine shop should have had the tooling to pull it apart and it must be pulled apart to mill it anyhow as it would need top be cooked and cleaned for any "Proper" crack inspection which means it would have had to be stripped down anyhow so I am still confused as to why you needed to buy the tool.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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So why did you need a valve tool if the head is off and already disassembled at the machine shop? :think:  :shrug:

 

 

The machine shop should have had the tooling to pull it apart and it must be pulled apart to mill it anyhow as it would need top be cooked and cleaned for any "Proper" crack inspection which means it would have had to be stripped down anyhow so I am still confused as to why you needed to buy the tool.

 

 

I would find a different machine shop if they think they can clean and inspect it with the valves in the head and why don't they have the tooling to do this, something very fishy there. :2cents:

 

Does seem odd that you would have to buy the tools to do the valves... :think:

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Ilikeoldfords

Ilikeoldfords

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You say this can be done with the head on truck? How do you know when you are tdc for each cylinder? Do you have vertical clearance for working on #6?

Can you see the piston with the injector out? That way you know you are at TDC. I havent actually done it but that is how it made sense to me.

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Wild and Free

Wild and Free

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You say this can be done with the head on truck? How do you know when you are tdc for each cylinder? Do you have vertical clearance for working on #6?

Every piston is near TDC when all of the valves are closed for that cylinder and the valve bridges are loose on top of the valves under the rocker arms.

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CUMMINSDIESELPWR

CUMMINSDIESELPWR

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bearings arrived today, piston/conrod/rings assembled and clean.    everything is ready for a final dust off and inspection then i lay bearings and start the short assembly. wed or thur ill lay the head and torque and complete the assembly to where all i have to do is hoist it into the truck and bolt it up.  i also cleaned and rebuilt the vacuum pump, it was real easy to do. cleaning was a pain though...

Edited by CUMMINSDIESELPWR
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