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Hello everyone, long time no talk. Life has been busy and health has been bleh...

 

Long story short i was coming back from utah for a friends wedding and he was moving as well. I towed the uhaul trailer 6'x12' densly packed and very very heavy. Had no problems going through the mountains on HWY 80 EB till about 80 mi from lariamie WY. I was heading up a very long grade and towards the top something bad happened.

 

Here are the stats of when it happened

 

speed 70

gear 6

EGT under 1250 (no more than 60 seconds@1250, i saw it and turned the cruise off and throttled down)

boost around 20psi

rpm appx 1800~ cant remember exactly but was below 2000

oil psi normal ~65

fuel psi 18-20

temp rose from normal 180F to appx 200F when i powered down (within the white brackets)

 

What happened was a knock appeared and progressed to a loud knock quickly. I unloaded the engine and babied it to the crest which was less than half mile. Pulled over and the knock rose to a certain level and stayed there, excess blowby is observed and nothing else abnormal aside from the knock.

 

I havent torn into the engine but i am presuming either a cracked/melted piston or a conrod bearing went to hell or both.  I have my backup vehicle that ill be using for my trip and when i get back ill tear the engine apart.

 

Things i did learn from this, My RPM's were too low, egts were too high and in too high of a gear pushing too hard too long.

 

Fresh oil/filter air filter done before trip 3 weeks ago. zero issues aside from a cam sensor that gets fussy here and there. (was going to replace it when i got back this week as its bolt is stripped...)

 

Anyone have any thoughts or questions?

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hold on a sec ! 

 

Oil   goes  through the cooler first,  then the filter...   Don't blame the filter  just yet!      

 

 

oil pump...   pressure regulator..........cooler  THEN     filter head.     Unless  I  mis read  your post,  and   am  thinking   'wrong passageway'.

 

Take  a  knife,  and  see how  'soft'   it is.     There's  some pretty good   stuff  that is  light as  aluminum..   but  much harder

Edited by rancherman

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so good news, machine shop said the crank polished perfect so .STD bearings will be ordered and the head only needed .004 removed to true it up so i should still be able to use a stock head gasket. my valve tool came in from cumminsperformanceparts.com for $45

just need to order bearings and start assembly when they arrive

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Edited by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

So why did you need a valve tool if the head is off and already disassembled at the machine shop? :think:  :shrug:

The machine shop should have had the tooling to pull it apart and it must be pulled apart to mill it anyhow as it would need top be cooked and cleaned for any "Proper" crack inspection which means it would have had to be stripped down anyhow so I am still confused as to why you needed to buy the tool.

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i need to replace the valve seals since everything is apart., it wasnt stripped down, it was boiled and cleaned though and leak tested.

Edited by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

I would find a different machine shop if they think they can clean and inspect it with the valves in the head and why don't they have the tooling to do this, something very fishy there. :2cents:

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So why did you need a valve tool if the head is off and already disassembled at the machine shop? :think:  :shrug:

 

 

The machine shop should have had the tooling to pull it apart and it must be pulled apart to mill it anyhow as it would need top be cooked and cleaned for any "Proper" crack inspection which means it would have had to be stripped down anyhow so I am still confused as to why you needed to buy the tool.

 

 

I would find a different machine shop if they think they can clean and inspect it with the valves in the head and why don't they have the tooling to do this, something very fishy there. :2cents:

 

Does seem odd that you would have to buy the tools to do the valves... :think:

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rebuild starts Monday when bearings arrive. this weekend will be prepwork and preassembly. i should have it back in the truck on the 11th, perform break-in and then oil change @500mi then move to florida yaaay

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i made a video! took appx 13 minutes per valve set

 

http://youtu.be/BpSH_BzKq6k

Edited by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

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mike i made an article under the right section with this vid, if you want to hard copy it to the web server you have my permission. can you verify it completed the article, thanks.

You say this can be done with the head on truck? How do you know when you are tdc for each cylinder? Do you have vertical clearance for working on #6?

Edited by joecool911

You say this can be done with the head on truck? How do you know when you are tdc for each cylinder? Do you have vertical clearance for working on #6?

Can you see the piston with the injector out? That way you know you are at TDC. I havent actually done it but that is how it made sense to me.

You say this can be done with the head on truck? How do you know when you are tdc for each cylinder? Do you have vertical clearance for working on #6?

Every piston is near TDC when all of the valves are closed for that cylinder and the valve bridges are loose on top of the valves under the rocker arms.

You could put a small long piece of rubber down the hole and when it stops moving up you are at tdc

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bearings arrived today, piston/conrod/rings assembled and clean.    everything is ready for a final dust off and inspection then i lay bearings and start the short assembly. wed or thur ill lay the head and torque and complete the assembly to where all i have to do is hoist it into the truck and bolt it up.  i also cleaned and rebuilt the vacuum pump, it was real easy to do. cleaning was a pain though...

Edited by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

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short block completed

 

front gear cover installed.

 

tomorrow will be rear main, oil pickup, oil pan, vacuum pump. Possibly the head as well depending if help is here or not. then onto the hoist for the tranny adapter and flywheel/clutch

 

sat its gonna happen!