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AEM Dry Flow BHAF Thoughts? pros. cons.


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I don't know. Pavement queen, dirt queen, filter minder, no filter minder. I don't think too much about any of that. I do my regular service and that includes loosening one clamp, removing a hose, and inspecting my turbo. That gives me the best indicator of how my air filter is doing.

 

This is all good too but oil analysis is the best as you can have many other places along the intake system that will allow dirt entry into the engine other than pre-turbo. :wink:

At the Mine I work at we use an ultrasonic leak detector with a sound generator inside the intake system of engines to find intake system leaks that can never be found any other way when we get bad UOA results back and can't find any obvious places for dirt entry.

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This is all good too but oil analysis is the best as you can have many other places along the intake system that will allow dirt entry into the engine other than pre-turbo. :wink:

At the Mine I work at we use an ultrasonic leak detector with a sound generator inside the intake system of engines to find intake system leaks that can never be found any other way when we get bad UOA results back and can't find any obvious places for dirt entry.

I wouldn't even attempt to argue that point. UOA is hands down the best indicator of engine condition there is.  What I should of said is a "general indication" filter performance. It's just that where I'm from when you start talking about UOA's you might as well be talking about UFO's. Down here if you can roll coal then that's all that matters. Reliability, durability, mpg, and true performance seem to be at the very end of the list when they buy a diesel.

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rlane, I Know that I need to do something about the fuel pump as soon as I possibly can, until then I do not drive it too hard.

I read a lot about the fuel pump issue as well, I will be ordering an aftermarket fuel pump as soon as I have the ability.

 

Mopar man, I would not buy a washable oil filter because the amount of oil going down the drain would be rediculous.

 

I will say that the posts and further research I have done have definitely proven to me that a reusable air filter is not necessarily the best option.

The duration of the filter life with a BHAF is excellent, and the filtration is definitely better.

 

As I said before much of the consideration about choosing a washable filter was due to having to order a filter either way and the ability ro get it at a comparable price, or cheaper.

 

I am a very technical thinker, which is why I asked this question to see what others had to say about the pros and cons of reusable dryflow air filters.

 

After I do the fuel pump I get to do front springs and shocks all the way around.

 

Again, thank you everyone for your responses, I hope this helps others in the future as well.

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AFE dry elements are awesome especially with the outerware to keep the big chunks out of the pleats, AEM is junk, buddy just dusted an engine on an 03 cummins earlier this year running a washable AEM filter system.

 

 Wild and Free, I've been running an AME filter since May of 08 and have put 25k miles on it. What makes them "junk" and how did your buddy dust an engine with one?    

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 Wild and Free, I've been running an AME filter since May of 08 and have put 25k miles on it. What makes them "junk" and how did your buddy dust an engine with one?    

I looked it over when he first bought it and told him not to use it as the filter was about the same quality as the K&N oiled filter elements, more of a screen door than a filter, then top that with his lack of proper maintenance of it combined to cost him 9K for a total overhaul "with extra mods at the same time" due to being dusted as a result of poor filter with lack of proper maintenance of it. This was on an early 03 third gen CR.

He went back to a brand new factory intake box with the deeper pleated filter in it.

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BHAF all the way. Hard to beat 100,000 miles on an air filter. As Tom pointed out you can get them cheaper by shopping around. CPP has them for $52.23 and they sell outerwears prefilters for them too, which would probably help extend the life of the filter even longer.

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I looked it over when he first bought it and told him not to use it as the filter was about the same quality as the K&N oiled filter elements, more of a screen door than a filter, then top that with his lack of proper maintenance of it combined to cost him 9K for a total overhaul "with extra mods at the same time" due to being dusted as a result of poor filter with lack of proper maintenance of it. This was on an early 03 third gen CR.

He went back to a brand new factory intake box with the deeper pleated filter in it.

You should keep an eye out for dust with the factory box. Pull the intake tube and check for dust inside because the factory box gets kind of distorted with time/ heat and doesn't squeeze against the rubber gasket so well. There is a way to shave the the box with a block plane so it squeezes tighter to the factory filter and not let air go around the rubber edges, but, you have to make up metal clips that you sandwich over the box hook tabs. This makes the tabs thicker so it makes the top half pull tighter to the filter.

I did this mod because the intake tube had fine dust. I just cut little rectangles out of Stainless sheet metal and folded them over each tab to make the tab thicker. Next is to bend the box holder clips so they hold tighter as well. This all works well if you shave the box lip which acts like sort of a stop and won't seal well to the filter. I forgot if you shave the top or the bottom half, so look at it closely before shaving off a 16th of an inch

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You should keep an eye out for dust with the factory box. Pull the intake tube and check for dust inside because the factory box gets kind of distorted with time/ heat and doesn't squeeze against the rubber gasket so well. There is a way to shave the the box with a block plane so it squeezes tighter to the factory filter and not let air go around the rubber edges, but, you have to make up metal clips that you sandwich over the box hook tabs. This makes the tabs thicker so it makes the top half pull tighter to the filter.

I did this mod because the intake tube had fine dust. I just cut little rectangles out of Stainless sheet metal and folded them over each tab to make the tab thicker. Next is to bend the box holder clips so they hold tighter as well. This all works well if you shave the box lip which acts like sort of a stop and won't seal well to the filter. I forgot if you shave the top or the bottom half, so look at it closely before shaving off a 16th of an inch

That is why he went with the AEM filter setup in the first place, his OEM box warped like that and he chose cheap rather than quality and then didn't service it properly and it bit him so he bought a brand new oem air box at rebuild time.

 

Has anyone ever seen a BHAF on a 3rd or 4th gen?

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I don't think the 'normal' BHAF will fit a common rail. At least I have not heard of one that fits, From what I understand the third and fourth gen air boxes are an improvement over the second gens.

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I would never run one but was just wondering, I know the under hood design and space would limit the practicality of it on 3rd and 4th gens. I have had excellent luck with the double deep pleated filters in the factory air box with the cold air mod to the bottom housing on my 05.

On my old 02 the AFE stage 2 dry system was the best of the 4 different intake systems I had run over the years. Factory, K&N junk which almost cost me an engine luckily the UOA caught this one before it did, then an assembly of different things as an experiment of different types and finally on to the AFE system.

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HM! I guess they do fit, but it would take a bit more than pullng the airbox and installing them. I saw one post on another site that took some rubber 90* elbows and a stainless 908 elbow and some pipe, and on another site where the battery tray needed to be notched amongst other thigs to make it fit and it took him about 90 minutes to install.

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