Install some DAP 7x.009 injectors. Everything went smooth and took my time checking everything. Tightened everything to spec's. Bled the system after installing and she cranked right up. Nothing leaks but now after sitting over night I have to crank on it a good minute or so to get it started. Before I couldn't hardly get my hand on the key and it would be running. At first I thought it may be some air in the system still seeking higher ground but after a couple weeks Im starting to wonder if maybe it's something else. I cleaned everything good and also put new orings on the crossovers. Any ideas on what else I should look for.

Also have fass lift pump 17 at idle and never below 14-14.5. After first start it during the day starts good there after. Just sitting over night causes the problems. Thanks

 Volvo diesels would Would lose their prime due to air leak in the copper o-rings sealing the banjo fitting for the fuel line at the fuel filter housing. With a clear plastic line you could see the fuel draining back to the tank but you would never see any fuel leak from the fitting. Air molecules are smaller than diesel fuel molecules.

I pulled crossover tubes and cleaned and replaced new orings that came from DAP. I reinstalled injectors first by torquing to 40 in lbs and backing off then inserting crossovers and tightening them then torquing the injectors to I think was 74 in lbs. I was very carefull as to not nick or damage any of the crossovers taking them out or putting them back in. Made sure all brass washers came out with old injectors and when reinserting new injectors i put just a small dot of grease on the new brass washers to hold in place while inserting new injectors.

 

Seem you did it backwards.

 

You should be tightening the cross over tubes first then the injector caps. Common mistake.

I did mine the Michael way, no leaks so far

I have done it both ways, tighten injectors first and tubes first with the same results. The only time I had a leak was when I nicked a tube by leaving the lines hooked up and just pulling back on the line.

The leak will not be external you can see but typically internal in the head where you can't see. So at idle it might only weep but under full throttle it might be spraying in the return rail where the crossover tube meets the injector.

I have the same problem with my truck since I just replaced the injectors with brand new RV 275s. Truck is a 2000 with airdog 100 and new vp44. I watched the install video on this site and just read mopar 1973 man's write up on it. Unless I had too much to drink yesterday they seem to conflict. The write-up says to torque injector hold downs first then put feeder tubes in and torque. I did it the way the video describes and tightened injectors to @44in. then backed off and torqued lines and then set injector hold downs to 89in. Injectors have been in for a week and when I let the truck sit for 3days I had to crack lines to start. ON advice from another site I parked truck down hill last night and it seemed easier to start.

 

I have seen new feeder tube o rings for close to a buck. TB diesel sent me o rings for .40 a piece but they seemed much skinnier than the ones I took off. The3 tubes popped in easily and I wonder if this is my problem. Also I may have over torqued the feeder tubes I am heavy handed. If I back off and torque again will any distortion be repaired?

 

When I installed my injectors even with oil on the o rings they did not seat by hand. They required a great deal of pressure I actually pressed them in with a rubber mallet. I didn't hammer on them just applied leverage to the mallet then they popped in. Once in they rotated to line up fine but after reading and watching the install info again why would mine have not pressed in by hand. 

 

No one seems to want to answer this on but my high pressure lines are pretty pitted. I see no fuel leaks but my question is if they were leaking from the lines; not the ends, wouldn't I see it at high rpm when engine is running?  Also I am still confused on how one injector line or feeder tube leaking can cause the vp44 to loose prime. We also have a common rail motor in another truck and I understand how one leak on that motor causes the whole rail to bleed down but aren't the lines or circuits for lack of a better term on the vp44 separate? 

 

Somewhere on this site it says don't be afraid of dumb questions but here comes one!

If the feeder tube creates a positive seal in the injector body as I believe it should why is there a return port in the head on these motors?   

 

BTW other that the hard starting at this point the truck seems to run excellent and has plenty of power.

 

Thank-you to anyone who takes the time to answer.   

I went ahead and bought new crossover tubes with O rings and some new rv275s to install. I really didn't like the looks of the dap 7.009's I bought. They looked like they were beat up pretty good on the bodies and a couple of them where the crossover tubes seated in them looked scared up also. Had them laying in the garage for a few weeks waiting for a little better weather to install and noticed the truck started a little better each time I used it. Long story made short weather was nice one day and thought good day to lick that calf over and went out to start it and pull in the garage, it was sitting at least a week and turned the key waited for the grid heater light to go out and hit the key it started right up. I thought what the he!! Well decided to wait and see how it goes and ever since it has started right up. Couldn't tell you how many times I bled it to make sure all the air was out but maybe could have finally gotten it all out or something else. I think I am going to just run it like this for a bit but this summer I'm still going to put the new ones in. It still diesels at idle when you let the clutch out, doesn't matter if it's loaded or empty, warm or cold. Didn't do that with the stock injectors and hoping it will clear up when I put in the new stuff. Thanks for all the replys and help. Will update when it warms up and I get the new ones in.

What do you you mean "It still diesels at idle when you let the clutch out"?

Has a lope when letting the clutch out at idle. I've tried all different settings on the edge but can't get rid of it. If I don't run it at. 1000 rpms when letting out the clutch just getting the truck to move it lopes or diesels. Had a old tractor back in the sixty's and it had a lope. Spent years on it and over the years I came to hate it.

I don't think you will be able to stop the lope you have. I have heard stock trucks do the same thing.