Front Crank Seal

[Dieselfuture]

Well... I learned a bunch doing this job. As for installing the seal into cover and then putting the cover back on is insane with edges full of fresh silicone. Much easier to install the cleaned cover and then install the crank seal. I did the same thing and drove the seal in just a bit deeper to make it ride in a different spot. Great minds think alike. Heck in 240k miles and crank seal is being replaced. No biggy. Next time I'll most likely order the seal with the sleeve. As for removal of the seal a screwdriver and rubber hammer and it pop out in a few hits. Still pickin' silicone off my hands and arms.

I hope you put it on dry, with no oil. Last one I did on 12valve I did a little research and found out that if you remove front cover and reinstall it with old seal you can put little bit of oil on it, but if you replace seal crank and seal got to be dry for it to wear in place. Or there is a change of it leaking later.

[Mopar1973Man]

Yea... It was dry. Marked right on the seal "Install dry". Real PITA to smack in with the cover in place.

[mopartechnician]

I always pull the cover, pop the seal out, clean all the old rtv/gasket out. Then when I install the seal, I use a small chunk of 2x4 laid flat across the seal installer and tap right in the center to make the seal go in straight. Takes a couple of times and seal goes right in. After the frustrating part is done I clean the front of the gear case and clean all the gears up. Finally run a solid bead of rtv on the cover and make a circle around each bolt hole.

Edited February 2, 2015 by mopartechnician

[Ironforger]

I put a stick through my radiator over the summer. While I had the old radiator out and fan out I figured it was as good a time as any to - 1) remove the damper to do a thorough inspection, 2) pull the cover to check the KDP, and 3) change the front main seal that was just starting to get a little damp.

You can have the damper and the front cover off in less than a half hour.

I agree. It's not too difficult to remove the cover to replace the seal. Takes a little finess to tap the new one in though. The napa kit comes with the expander-sleeve slide-over cone which allows you to re-install cover without damaging the seal lip.

 

Overall the job is not too difficult and it's a good opportunity to first pressurewash before taking everything apart & then once back together you can watch closely to see where oil leaks (if any) may originate from.

Edited February 12, 2015 by Ironforger

[98whitelightnin]

I did mine last night, I read to put some red loc tight on so i tried. I doubt much was left on by the time I actually got the seal installed, what a booger to get in!

[Mopar1973Man]

I've checked mine a few times and its dry as a bone. The one that didn't take very good was the vacuum pump. It leaking not bad but its leaving a wet spot on the cross member frame.

[98whitelightnin]

Mine was dry after 158k but i wasn't gonna put the cover back on without a new seal