Jump to content
Mopar1973Man.Com LLC
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

Travel Trailer Help


Recommended Posts

I'm thinking of getting a travel trailer to live in while I build a house, somewhat long term, maybe 2 years. Any recommendations? Spending about 20k, just for just me for now. I have no idea what to look for or stay away from, any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not an expert & everything I have had was used. 

 

Travel trailers are not expected to be used in cold weather...  typically poorly insulated & heated.  The tanks & piping underneath are subject to freezing.  I was living in my old 5th wheel until we got married...  Dec 30th.  I had pipes freeze while I was living in it...  came home to a foot of water in it when the frozen line thawed during the day (after pushing the fitting apart).  The water supply lines run through inaccessible spaces...  where there's no heat. 

The propane heater couldn't keep up...  I could stay warm with a couple of fan forced space heaters if the circuit breakers would hold.  

 

Trailers & mobil homes must be enclosed underneath to keep cold air out.  Probably need heat tape / insulation on exposed pipes underneath.   

 

You may not notice when the roof starts leaking...  water can get into the walls & cause unrepairable rot.  I have rotten sills & there's really nothing practical to do now.  Beware of fabric roofs that need recoating periodically.  I had a new paint on rubber roof applied...  to stop the leaks...  cost 1000 & I thought that was a good price. 

The fifth wheel must have been leaking on a rear top corner for a while until the framing rotted & the trim popped up.  I ended up junking the trailer.    

 

I would be looking for a unit with a molded roof that rolls over the tops of the walls.  You need to inspect the roof more than anything.    

 

I wonder if you'd be better off to have a mobil home put on the site for the duration.  Resell it after.   

 

That's what pops into my mind first. 

Edited by flagmanruss
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remember RV trailers aren't meant to be lived in for long periods. I assume you will have power water and sewer... like Russ stated the roof and the underbelly are the keys to keeping them for a long time.

We bought our 2nd trailer in 2012 and it has more wham whams and zoom zooms than we really need but the trailer was cheap. Here is what we bought

 

http://www.rvguide.com/specs/dutchmen/travel-trailer/2011/dutchmen-lite/286bhgs.html

 

We only paid $16K for ours its a lot of trailer but we have 2 kids and their friends usually with us.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner

Like I got to friend just down the road from me that wants to do the same thing. He's in the market for 5th wheel approximately about 30 foot or so. Something he can haul with his Chevy 2500 pickup. He done with all the renting homes and them being shacks like his current place. He's got property just north of here and would love to jusy drop a RV on his open ground to live in. Now with that said I told him to consider being mobile. Now he's loving the idea of being up north for the summer with family for the summer and then go south to other family in the winter. He's also looking into the winter package RV's with heated tanks and plumbing. Because this will be his long term home.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Staff

CT cummins, there are folks living fulltime in an rv. I've seen them camping in colder climates by using the rigid foam board insulation around the bottom like skirting. Another way is build the shop first, then park the rv inside for winter use.

What we did.... bought a single wide mobile home brand new and lived in that while we built. It took 18 months in my spare time with some subs help. The mobile home was still new but sat unsold on the dealers lot for too long. That is how we got a real deal. We paid 18 k for it and sold it for 17 k after 2 1/2 years using it. We did loose the set up fee and trucking to bring it out to our new property but, it worked out fine.

If I was to do it over again I would go the rv route but, build the shop first placing it inside. Some folks just build a small apartment in the shop but that usually is bootlegged without a permit. One guy got caught that I know of, wasn't pretty dealing with the county afterward.

Final note... Always buy your rv with heated tanks from the furnace. It is all enclosed on the rv bottom for the holding tanks to have ducted heat coming from the furnace.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

arctic fox and or desert fox are the best for cold climates. they won't freeze pipes.

they have "park" models they are not designed for off grid living, as you shouldn't need batteries. water pump. etc. the holding tanks are even none existent.

i hardly ever used my built in furnace. i use the big buddy heater. works AWESOME and uses about 1/4 or less propane. get the one with the full hight cabinets. and the largest fridge you can find. mine even has an ice maker in it.

those will help with resale as well.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Staff

Not all trailers are created equal.

 

You will need one that is 4 seasons. We can camp in ours down to around 0°F without any outside insulation/heating and not freeze anything... but it does burn some propane.

 

I would look at a slide for comfort, but it will increase your heating costs.

 

A 5er would be more comfortable.

 

Plan on using electric and propane for heat.

 

Double pane windows would be a big plus for winter.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner

Even mine is a so-so 4 seasons design. I've got covered tanks and some of my heat is ported into the cover tank areas. The only problem is the water lines leave the inside of the RV to the outside to get under the slide and then pop back up in the bathroom. This is its weak spot being there is no heat for this one area of plumbing. So when even looking at a 4 season RV make sure all water plumbing remains inside the RV and doesn't go through the floor. Other than that my furnace does a excellent job of heating at minus weather and I will tend to agree with AH64ID it does suck up a bunch of propane but you will stay warm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My 24' (main floor) 5th wheel "Scamper Camper" ~ mid 1980s...   the water inlet & tank was on the passengers side in the bottom of the closet & the kitchen sink was on the same side,  The water lines crossed over above the floor under the step to the upper bedroom.  The driver's side had a big cabinette/shelf housing the furnace & hot water heater.  the water lines ran to the back, under the dinette (electrical hatch to the outside), under the shower, with lav sink & toilet all the way to the rear of the rig.  The toilet tank was straight underneath.) 

I left the cabinette doors open but the line froze under the shower & under the lav sink against the outside wall.  A hot air duct ran under the shower but the furnace was sketchy & I was relying on space heaters. 

Although I was in the unit into the winter, I didn't enclose underneath because it wasn't staying.  Before we married, I had it off the jacks with scrap planks under the tires so it wouldn't freeze to the ground.  Dec 31, I locked the 5th wheel onto it & pulled it out through 12" of snow.  The campground was planning on charging me rent all winter...  thinking I couldn't get it out.   

 

My 28' Thor Transport ~2002...   tanks are under.  Electric cable entrance / Waterpump access is outside under the kitchen counter.  Water lines run forward above floor but no access to hot water heater & hot return.  Hot & cold cross under the floor...  come up under fridge at the head of the tub/shower...  more lines to lav sink. 

 

These units were unsuitable...   It will take some looking but I'd be optomistic that it could be done with the right unit. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Staff

I wanted to insulate my truck camper wherever there where odd shaped nooks and crannies, but didn't like fiberglass dust. So I cut open some cheap pillows and used that for stuffing. I got it to where the furnace shuts off and stays off for awhile anyways.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...