Teardown and Rebuild

[TFaoro]

OEM paint color

 

Forgot this showed up yesterday. Polished it up today Thank you War Eagle for finding it!

 

[Royal Squire]

Lookin Gooood!

[diesel4life]

One definitely wouldn't fit this build.

I think one of these bumpers could be strong... just have to brace it properly! Literally anything is stronger than the stock bumper. It's terrible.

I certainly understand and appreciate everybody has different tastes, but I must be missing something... you've got a clean 2nd gen with a fresh engine and paint, what kind of build are you shooting for?

The only bumpers that will protect the intercooler/radiator are the ones that have the brush guards built integraly with the bumper, and they must be made of heavy schedule pipe. The lighter weight bumpers with thin schedule material that are built tight to the truck for a streamlined appearance are mostly for cosmetic purposes. I work with 2 guys that have what I call show bumpers, both tagged deer and both had to replace the entire front end of the truck along with their bumpers. One guy got away with replacing only the front clip, good, and bumper, but the other did over $4500 in damage (the bumper only added to the cost of repairs) I've not seen the ones in person in the link but the only ones that look capable of offering adequate protection from say a deer at highway speeds is the "Rancher" bumper, or possibly the one with the bull nose depending on how you hit them, both of which seems to have taken a few design ques from you know who. I don't think they're much cheaper (if at all) by the time you figure in time and material to build it, then pay to have it sandblasted and powdercoated. It all comes down to preference, but I'm a function over form kinda guy (and don't think the Ranch Hands look bad to begin with)

https://youtu.be/QGPYqOhRQkY

Ok, done hijacking!

[TFaoro]

I certainly understand and appreciate everybody has different tastes, but I must be missing something... you've got a clean 2nd gen with a fresh engine and paint, what kind of build are you shooting for?

The only bumpers that will protect the intercooler/radiator are the ones that have the brush guards built integraly with the bumper, and they must be made of heavy schedule pipe. The lighter weight bumpers with thin schedule material that are built tight to the truck for a streamlined appearance are mostly for cosmetic purposes. I work with 2 guys that have what I call show bumpers, both tagged deer and both had to replace the entire front end of the truck along with their bumpers. One guy got away with replacing only the front clip, good, and bumper, but the other did over $4500 in damage (the bumper only added to the cost of repairs) I've not seen the ones in person in the link but the only ones that look capable of offering adequate protection from say a deer at highway speeds is the "Rancher" bumper, or possibly the one with the bull nose depending on how you hit them, both of which seems to have taken a few design ques from you know who. I don't think they're much cheaper (if at all) by the time you figure in time and material to build it, then pay to have it sandblasted and powdercoated. It all comes down to preference, but I'm a function over form kinda guy (and don't think the Ranch Hands look bad to begin with)

https://youtu.be/QGPYqOhRQkY

Ok, done hijacking!

I'm shooting for a clean 2nd gen, and to me the ranch hand is not clean. It is functional, but the look, IMO, is terrible. (That and every moron who had their daddy buy their truck in my area has one)

 

I will not be putting one on that has a grill guard built in. Maybe a single bar that protects some of the grill would look good. I don't like having the whole grill covered. While it does provide more protection looks are still important to me. I spent thousands on paint and plastic to get the truck looking original, so I'd like to show it off.

3/16 steel is very strong, especially when braced properly. I have no doubt if I built a bumper it would stand up to a large animal just fine. If you hit a large animal damage is going to occur one way or another. I'd just like to lessen the damage with a good looking bumper.  On this one we are going to have to agree to disagree  

[rburks]

Tyler..... I'm sure what ever you choose will look awesome 

Edited July 20, 2015 by rburks

[rburks]

I certainly understand and appreciate everybody has different tastes, but I must be missing something... you've got a clean 2nd gen with a fresh engine and paint, what kind of build are you shooting for?

The only bumpers that will protect the intercooler/radiator are the ones that have the brush guards built integraly with the bumper, and they must be made of heavy schedule pipe. The lighter weight bumpers with thin schedule material that are built tight to the truck for a streamlined appearance are mostly for cosmetic purposes. I work with 2 guys that have what I call show bumpers, both tagged deer and both had to replace the entire front end of the truck along with their bumpers. One guy got away with replacing only the front clip, good, and bumper, but the other did over $4500 in damage (the bumper only added to the cost of repairs) I've not seen the ones in person in the link but the only ones that look capable of offering adequate protection from say a deer at highway speeds is the "Rancher" bumper, or possibly the one with the bull nose depending on how you hit them, both of which seems to have taken a few design ques from you know who. I don't think they're much cheaper (if at all) by the time you figure in time and material to build it, then pay to have it sandblasted and powdercoated. It all comes down to preference, but I'm a function over form kinda guy (and don't think the Ranch Hands look bad to begin with)

https://youtu.be/QGPYqOhRQkY

Ok, done hijacking!

 

Well, i guess from your perspective your right, But thing is,,Tyler has spent a crap load of money, not just on engine but looks and from what I've gathered by looking over the threads this has been a ongoing project for some time, i don't think he just randomly has done these mods.. he has started with a well excited plan and most importantly A VISION of what he expected his truck to perform and "LOOK" LIKE,  and that bumper your listing i don't think is in his vision. Not say'n it's not a nice bumper, its very nice, and make's sense from your perspective. 

 

 

 BUT at the end of the day its his TRUCK, his TIME & EFFORT, AND HIS MONEY, so i think we orDa respect his Vision and be grateful he has chosen to share this Venture with all of us, i know i feel blessed to have seen all this play out step by step and we all are more knowledgeable for our TRUCKS than before

[TFaoro]

Got a couple pictures of the bed liner showing how rough it is. Not bad for a DIY kit if you ask me!

I'm just waiting for it to cure now.

 

[TFaoro]

So I finally got the truck out and was able to drive it tonight. Wow I've missed driving something that can get out of its own way! :rof

Did about a 50 mile drive. The engine seems to be running pretty good, it just has a bit of a weird skip to it. I pulled into the gas station to buy a tea.... come back out and there's a puddle the size of a half dollar under the truck. I crawl under it and see the underside is all spotted.... skid plates, fuel tank, differential, driveline ect. I see something about to drip off of the bell housing and it has a blue tint. So I pop the hood and start it. There is a lot of fuel leaking out of the #3 injector line where it meets the crossover tube. Like wipe it and see fuel start running right away. I'm guessing that's where my skip is. #3 injector not getting all of the fuel it should. I headed back home and checked the line. It's tight so I guess I'll pull it off and see what's going on tomorrow. 

 

Other than that the engine seems great. Starts well, gets up to temp quickly and bounces between 188 and 193 deg, spools fast (For dodge tuning) just seems to be doing well. The transmission is shifting 100% better into 3rd and 4th. The new syncros are definitely working properly!

 

So for those of you picture guys that aren't going to read my ramble above here's some entertainment!

 

Don't mind the fuel return line... it's been re-routed already

 

 

The shadows make the bed liner look funny on this one so I put it last. There were four of us just staring at it

[Hawkez]

Your truck turned out really nice.  I really like the liner you put on the rockers.  Hopefully you get your fuel leak fixed soon. 

 

So what type break-in procedure do you do from here?  any fluid have to be changed after so many miles?  Can you pull a trailer now or do you need to wait until the motor is broke-in?

[rburks]

         look and see if fuel is dripping around fuel line itself behind the nut or seeping out  around the bore in the head. if its dripping down the line I've found it most of the time to be connection between fuel line and crossover tube,  and if its seeping around bore hole it"s usually o-rings on crossover tubes. or i have seen once tube not matting to injector cause it also to leak out the borehole but that was because the tube tapered surface was scared pretty bad..

 

  *****You probably already knew this but i thought id mention it, if your like me sometime you just need your memory jogged a little, everything starts ri=unning together

Edited July 22, 2015 by rburks

[Me78569]

Love the truck, just gotta antichrome the mirrors

 

 

 

So Chrome and shine ride eternal? 

 

 

 

 

 

Sucks about the fuel leak though.  No crack in the tip of the line?

[joecool911]

I think you should get truck of the month!

[Hawkez]

I think you should get truck of the month!

I'll second that.

[TFaoro]

Your truck turned out really nice.  I really like the liner you put on the rockers.  Hopefully you get your fuel leak fixed soon. 

 

So what type break-in procedure do you do from here?  any fluid have to be changed after so many miles?  Can you pull a trailer now or do you need to wait until the motor is broke-in?

Thanks!

 

The break in will all be on stock tuning, or "lower" power with minimal smoke.  This keeps the extra fuel from contaminating the cylinder walls during the breakin. Not a problem for me because I don't "roll coal" like a moron.

So break in starts out with 200 miles of constant changing rpms. Never want to let the engine run at a certain RPM for extended periods of time. If I do that it will run great at that rpm but not so great across the rest of the power band. I'll then do a hot torque on the studs, change the oil, let it cool off, and adjust the valves. Then I'll add 3 more bottles of zddp additive. I also plan to cut the filter open and see if there is any metal inside.

Next I'll go another 1300-1500 miles of changing rpms and change the oil again. After this one I'll only add two bottles of the zddp. From here I'll gradually add power until I've maxed it out. 5,000 mile oil changes will happen from this point forward.

 

Love the truck, just gotta antichrome the mirrors

 

 

Sucks about the fuel leak though.  No crack in the tip of the line?

With the black strip down the side the mirrors need to be black.... If I could sell these for 200  or 250 I think I'd buy some new ones. Any takers!?!?!

 

The tip doesn't appear to be cracked, but I'll be taking it off tonight. If it is I think I'll blame you for mentioning it!

[rburks]

Thanks!

 

The break in will all be on stock tuning, or "lower" power with minimal smoke.  This keeps the extra fuel from contaminating the cylinder walls during the breakin. Not a problem for me because I don't "roll coal" like a moron.

So break in starts out with 200 miles of constant changing rpms. Never want to let the engine run at a certain RPM for extended periods of time. If I do that it will run great at that rpm but not so great across the rest of the power band. I'll then do a hot torque on the studs, change the oil, let it cool off, and adjust the valves. Then I'll add 3 more bottles of zddp additive. I also plan to cut the filter open and see if there is any metal inside.

Next I'll go another 1300-1500 miles of changing rpms and change the oil again. After this one I'll only add two bottles of the zddp. From here I'll gradually add power until I've maxed it out. 5,000 mile oil changes will happen from this point forward.

 

With the black strip down the side the mirrors need to be black.... If I could sell these for 200  or 250 I think I'd buy some new ones. Any takers!?!?!

 

The tip doesn't appear to be cracked, but I'll be taking it off tonight. If it is I think I'll blame you for mentioning it!

are they power and heated

 are they OEM

[rburks]

Thanks!

 

The break in will all be on stock tuning, or "lower" power with minimal smoke.  This keeps the extra fuel from contaminating the cylinder walls during the breakin. Not a problem for me because I don't "roll coal" like a moron.

So break in starts out with 200 miles of constant changing rpms. Never want to let the engine run at a certain RPM for extended periods of time. If I do that it will run great at that rpm but not so great across the rest of the power band. I'll then do a hot torque on the studs, change the oil, let it cool off, and adjust the valves. Then I'll add 3 more bottles of zddp additive. I also plan to cut the filter open and see if there is any metal inside.

Next I'll go another 1300-1500 miles of changing rpms and change the oil again. After this one I'll only add two bottles of the zddp. From here I'll gradually add power until I've maxed it out. 5,000 mile oil changes will happen from this point forward.

 

With the black strip down the side the mirrors need to be black.... If I could sell these for 200  or 250 I think I'd buy some new ones. Any takers!?!?!

 

The tip doesn't appear to be cracked, but I'll be taking it off tonight. If it is I think I'll blame you for mentioning it!

Thses frigg'n lines are tedious as Heck ,, i don't think I've ever taken 6 loose that at least one didn't seep after put back on till you tight the crap out of it or loosen and tighten..

[TFaoro]

are they power and heated

 are they OEM

Power and heated. They are the 2009 style with the blinker in the corner.

[rburks]

Power and heated. They are the 2009 style with the blinker in the corner.

OEM Dodge or tru vu

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

Truck of the month here! looking real good TF!!!!

[Hawkez]

 

With the black strip down the side the mirrors need to be black.... If I could sell these for 200  or 250 I think I'd buy some new ones. Any takers!?!?!

 

Leave the mirrors on and cover the chrome with some of that bed liner.