2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hello again all so thought i'd toss this out there to get an idea of what the problem may be on our Work truck. So about 6 month's ago When my boss got his replacement truck. a 1998.5 Dodge 3500 Auto,4x4, 24 Val Truck. I went through it (When i could he bought it sight unseen for way more then worth with rust out the butt and not worth the price tag IMHO) But, I replaced every Fluid, Filter, Power steering pump, half the front end (Owners wife said it "like to wander" spent a few thousand replaced every part in the front end no help at all.) But after i Replaced the Fuel Filter, Refilled the canister as all way's with fresh diesel. .....The factory Fuel pump went dead... …

Pressure setting changed a few times when it was new. Now one year old. Noticed pressure getting lower but pressure dropped below 10 towing a heavy load. Fuel filter plugged? Stopped and changed filter. Nope, wasn't plugged. Readjusted pump up to 21psi not running,18psi at idle. Pulling load now at 15 psi. Thought this readjustment thing would end with age.

I replaced my starter a couple of years ago. I do a lot of service work and start and stop my truck 10 times a day. Should the contacts last longer than a couple years? I had an issue today where the starter engauged and then nothing. Multiple additional tires and no contact at all. I banged on the starter and also thought maybe my park switch may not be fully contacted by the shifter. So I pushed up on it before tryin to start. So I now don't know if it was the banging or shifter moving that solved the problem. Batteries good. Started as normal since.

Ok some I am replacing my quadzilla adrenaline programer with an Edge CTS and seems to be pretty easy till I got to the transmission oil temperature sensor its telling me on the instructions that to tap one of the sides of the transmission do I really need to do this or just leave it off . The other thing that I remember is that my quadzilla had the same sensor and the instructions said to place it on top of the oil filter does any body have any thoughts on this matter ??

The good news my faithful old truck is back in the driveway! Hats off to Earnhardt Dodge in Gilbert AZ! I obviously caused the problem. A connector under the dash in the vacinity of the emergency brake pedal had a wire pulled either out or at least back far enough that it did not make connection. I am going to try and attach a picture of the techs description! Thank you to all of you who commented on my posts! Many thanks to Mopar Man for the forum! What can be learned from this? Hard to say, it cost me $760.00 to get this fixed. Am I sorry I installed my own dash and heater core? No, I can only guess what it would have cost me for the dealer to install the new lower …

I got my turbo bearings replaced and manifold bolts for exhaust side replaced too. now I have been seeing a drop of RPMs no when in park it was always right around 850 RPMs before now they have been going down to 830 and now down to 810 and 800 when just sitting in park. is this normal or is the vp44 going out now

What type of metal should I use for the BHAF heat shield and thickness? Going to put in this weekend if I can get the right metal to cut. the other question is the heat blanket attached to the top of the hood does that need to come off too?

Can someone tell me what size socket the pinion nut is on a 98.5 Dana 80 is? I have tried a 1 13/16 and it is a hair small and a 1 7/8 will not fit inside the yoke without grinding the outside of the socket. I am thinking it is metric? Maybe 47mm? Odd size not in most sets. Rick

So I'm on to the next upgrade in the Pearl. I want to upgrade the turbo and the injectors. As of current I have the stock turbo and the stock injectors in er. I'm looking to get more ponies to the ground, better take off, better mpg's, and just better overall performance. I have upgraded to an Air Dog II 165 already, so my VP is getting plenty of that sweet nectar it loves so much. So let's hear some of your combos and how they work for you please! Thanks, Mick

Anyone know the factory spec's for the lift pump on a 2000 5.9 24 valve? Would like to know what cummins has to say on the pressure. I will be adding a aftermarket lift pump. But would like to know what the factory specs are also. Pete

Built my trans it's been fine now it's lagging gears bad. For instance in first gear I have to baby it and let it off to get it to shift it's like that all the way thru but.... If standing on it it'll shift just fine. PCM issue?

I am going to be doing a lot of driving after I get out of training this next year... and I am thinking of ways to reduce my fuel costs other than buying a small car. I was looking at these systems, or building my own. http://mycngguy.com/product-category/diesel-bi-fuel-systems

I put a new Certified Transmission in my truck. Its the Road Ripper 2000. It been running and shifting great. I finally put 10,000 miles on it. So I decide to go ahead and drop the pan and change fluid and adjust bands. I did not do a complete flush. Just what came out of the pan. I adjusted the front and rear bands also. After getting it put back together, I took it for a test drive. I noticed that 1 to 2 shift and the 2 to 3 shift is now delayed. When driving it will rev up to about 2400-2500 rpms and hold there for about a second-second and half, then finally shift. It did not shift this high before I did the adjustment. On one of Michaels articles, under g…

So the other day my truck would not start. When I turned on the key, the WTS light did not come on, then it would crank and crank and not fire. I opened three injector lines, but no fuel was coming out of them as I cranked. I finally used some starting fluid to get it running. Two of the lines still did not have any fuel coming out of them and the truck was running rough. I closed all the lines, reved the engine up and it finally started firing on all six. I was able to drive it, even shut it off and restart it, but then a few days later when I tried to start it it would just crank with not fire. I checked the voltage going into the VP44 and I do have voltage in wh…

First time to post – Amateur Cummins owner. My truck is 2001 2500 4WD Quadcab 5 speed – 4 inch MBRP exhaust with Donaldson muffler is only changes. Truck has 115,000 miles. I was driving in the PM (warm day) and the vehicle lost acceleration while pulling a hill in 5 gear (nothing in tow). I pulled over and the truck never went dead. Once stopped I was able to change into 1st and pull away with no other issues. The truck did something similar one other time in the past with same circumstances (traveling up hill in 5th gear) but did not have to pull over that time. I pulled the codes out when I got home and found the following P1693, P0216. I have been told the VP4…

Taking my truck to the dealer, had enough. I did find one new thing the intermittent wipers do not work and they do not stop at home. There is a black box under the dash next to the ash tray. It's called the CTM. It controls the delayed wipers and other functions on the CCD bus! Thought I would put this on here, hope it might help someone else.

The new HX turbo and 275 injectors look like they have improved my mileage by 2-3 mpg on my work run for the week. That will save me about $700 a year in fuel. Plus the added performance for towing. So it's not all about going fast. Next I'd like to do a Smarty.

Hi there I hoping someone can help me with My 2001 Dodge 2500 Cummins , this truck is the first new truck I have ever owned bought it for the motor after working on and around Heavy equipment most of My life . Just after I bought it about 4500 Miles when pulling a grade rolling at 54 to 68 Mph the Rpms would drop 2-250 rpm and jerk a bit but only loaded down and going up hill .I took it strait to Earn Harts Dodge It was there a week they all's they did was flash it and it lost a ton of power and it did not fix it .Next they put a APPS in it , no good plus 4 more At Larry Miller Dodge Glendale AZ just to make sure next they rewired the power wire from the Alt so many ti…

My trans service isn't due for another 13,000 miles. Just doing a passive flush (drain and fill) since I have the drain plug but, when do you stop filling so you don't overfill? Need to get it to where I can drive it for warm up. Then fill to the right level. Thank you to anyone that knows

Hey all, I have to smog my truck for the first time. I have a mechanical fuel pump as the stock pump died. I usually have the smarty take care of the error code but sine I have the stock tune loaded, the transfer pump code pops up and triggers the engine light. Is this gonna be an issue with smog? Im thinking of trying to put a dummy load on the pump plug of maybe 5ohms? Does this seem plausable or is there an easier way around this? Thanks