2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I am new to this forum, and do all my own work. I own a P pumped 2002 dually that is also super chargeda work in progress. Everything on this truck has been modified except the crank! Looking to find information on my P pump which has been modified by me alreadyin circle in front it says 908then:PES6P120A120RS7416then: 0402736906Then: tag on rear: RQV400 1250PA1060-4K392 8146 0005I know some of the info but Mike said to postThanks in advanceI am also able to answer or help anyoneRick

OK, my side cover is leaking about a quart a day. Have new gasket set. Also have a used VP44HO to put in(Thanks Ghostman). Have big line kit from stock filter with FP sender for my Quad & gear puller(Thanks Jkidd).Going to pull VP, all lines, filter canister & frrp. Then, I am going to pull the ECM & possibly space it out or at least plan it out for the future. Then, do the leaky side cover gasket.I will pull apart the FRRP & reseal it while i have it out. I also have a NAPA 1/2" 50 micron filter to put in before the FRRP.Here's my questions:1. I do not have the barring tool, so is there a redneck way for breaking the IP gear nut loose & torqui…

My truck had an intake and 4" exhaust on it when I got it so my next step is gauges. Gonna go with Isspro ev2 boost, pyro, and fuel pressure but I'm not sure on the ranges I should go with. Boost I'm thinking 0-40 psi since my turbo is stock and I have no plans to upgrade. Pyro seems like 0-1600 is standard. Fuel pressure is where I'm unsure. I know I don't want the pressure getting too low, but what is the high end of where a stock fuel system runs? Also, will that change if/when I get a FASS/Airdog installed? Thanks!

A few days ago truck didn't seem to make boost like it used too; I figure it was the fuel filters so I didn't worry much and just finished swapping a new gas tank, Vulcan filter kit, 1/2" fuel line from the tank to Vp, and threw a new lift pump on (same Walbro 392). Before I had 23 psi idle and 19 under a load; with no changes to the bypass I now have 20 psi at idle now and I can't get the truck under a load.I see under 10 pounds of boost when before this occurred it would peg the 25psi gauge.1594,0463,1492,1693 are the codes displayed on the dash.Any ideas? I'm praying the VP is okay. Turbo is dirty from the old oiled air filter on it but no shaft play.

Turned engine off and 20 minutes later he won't start. Batteries good everything works, when I turn the key nothing.no klick ,don't turn over, nothing. any advice?? never had problems. 2001 Dually

Hey guys, new to the forum. I have a '98 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 5.9L 24valve automatic 2 wheel drive 3:55 rear axle ratio. I have done literally everything I could possibly do to my truck to improve the mpg. Yet, I cannot seem to get anything over 15-16 mpg in the city and hwy can vary from 16-22 mpg. Current mods are afe cold air intake, airdog 100gph pump, rv275 injectors, smarty tuner, 4" straight exhaust, IAT fooler, scanguage 2, tires are toyo m-55 245-75-16 filled to 80 psi. The truck would get 15 mpg city/hwy bone stock with a 3" exhaust however when the fuel pressure was tested I was told that it was at 9psi at idle. I'm wondering if its done damage to the already…

Does anyone else experience their transmission shifting into reverse uncomfortably hard while in low range? Mine shifts great in high, but 2 is pretty hard. Is this in part due to my low stall torque converter? Will installing a upgraded valve body make this worse?

Alright... so here's what's going on. I went camping a couple weeks ago and left on a Thursday. The ride up was trouble free. The next morning I needed to move the trailer to another spot, I proceeded to start the truck and it had a hissy fit and a lot of trouble running. It would rev to 2k and then drop down to 700-800 then back up and down for a about 45 seconds to a minute. After that it smoothed out and drove fine for the rest of the weekend. It threw three codes one being P0237, and the "Wait to Start Light Relay" code the other I forgot. It began throwing the P0237 code over and over then went into limp mode. I parked it and checked the voltage going to the Ma…

This started about a week ago. It'll hold first all the way to redline and won't shift unless I lift my foot off the gas, and until I get to about 30mph I have to be VERY gentle with the accelerator or it'll downshift. Once I'm into 2nd and past the kickdown threshold, it shifts normally 2-3 and 3-4. It also downshifts fine. I replaced the governor solenoid and sensor about 3 years ago with Mopar parts; I want to say it was the AE or AF revision? I'm thinking it's the problem. Temps are fine, and while the bands *do* need adjusted, the trans was gone through about 100k ago and it's always worked fine. So, 1.) Do you think it's a governor issue and2.) Is the GM/Delphi gove…

Most of the guys don't sell EV gauges any more, and thanks to a mouse, I need a new EV fuel pressure gauge and an EV2 pyro. DAP doesn't seem to carry EV1s anymore so they are out.It's more than fubar'ed wiring, the pyro is toast and the fuel pressure is in pieces. I was trying to jury rig it to get the trip done and ended up breaking the bourdon tube and housing on the fuel pressure gauge while removing the compression fitting nut.I was going to go with Vulcan, as they had the best prices and actually carried the EV line of gauges still. However, their shopping cart won't let me check out and seems to be having issues. Genos still carries EVs, but their prices are crazy..…

Have been having more and more issues starting the engine once it warms up. Truck starts right away (barely turns over and its running) when cold but once it gets warm I have to crank it several times and even once had to use starting fluid to get it going. Was wondering if I somehow got some diesel with gasoline in it and the gas was vapor locking but its all pure pump fuel. The VP is about a year old and new injectors in the engine. Never had any issue with it during the fall/winter/spring but it sure is making things difficult now.Any ideas or suggestions? Thx, FT

hey there guys i was curious if any of you guys had any ideas y my water temp is running hotter then it ran like a week ago i changed my fan clutch and that helped but still isnt light it was when i first got the truck any ideas

Hey Gang...Just to skip hunting over the site I know you guys can spit out the place to get vacuum pump rebuild kit. Mine is finally starting to leak engine oil and getting the side of the block hosed with engine oil. Not enough to drip on the floor of the shop but it won't be long. So could you point to the information on the vacuum pump rebuild kit and any helpful hint would be great.

Hello. I'm a first time poster, but have gleaned countless amounts of valuable info from this site. Thank you all. Now the Question. I'm adding edge juice w/ attitude as well as a pac brake to my truck. Both require to be plugged in to the obd2 port. (My truck is an auto trans) I have seen obd2 splitters on the web but don't know if the separate components will operate at the same time. Thanks for your input.

I'm getting this code approx once a week........scanner says it's a low input. At first I thought the MAP sensor was bad, so I replaced it. Still get the code. It's a little irritating, since the truck runs a little weak after it pops that code. Mods are in my sig, with the exception of a Quadzilla boost fooler, which I haven't added onto the sig. I added the boost fooler over a year ago and have had no issues, this is a recent development...started a few weeks ago. Could the fooler have failed?

Thnx for reading my thread fellas. I'm sure this will put your mind to work alittle... So I bought this truck 2002 4x4 built Auto AFe cold air, Edge comp, stock turbo & inj.... with bad no. 6 cylinder. Local shop pulled the motor and replaced piston, rings, rod, bearings.. etc only on the 6 cylinder all others looked real good.... Now truck smokes alot at idle.. and I have weird sound coming from the intake. I put 1200 miles on it and truck runs real well. Changed oil and filters yesterday and found out it consumed over 1.5 gallons of oil since only about a gallon drained out. Is that normal for a break in of one cylinder ( the hone did need a course hon…

Last month set pressure went from 19psi to 16psi. I tweaked the adjust screw back to 19psi. Today it is at 22psi idle. 19psi no load. Been readjusting for the last year. up down, up down. Is this normal? Thinking I will just watch it for a while.

Got the cows unloaded before they got too hot.. I been hauling short trips to pasture all day, and this last load I got up on the road, and it was bucking all over the place.... clouds of blue/gray smoke. I shut it down and bumped the starter. No lift pump. I opened up the drain ____, and get a good stream only while the starter is engaged.. no 30 second run-on. The air dog was extremely hot. After half hour of open hood cool down, it started to pump again. Engine ran perfect (no smoke and easily rapped up to 3500 ) then about 30 seconds later, the pump shut down again. Mike, if that ecm is …

Can anybody give me a suggestion for a fuel additive better than stanadyne ?

So the past few days when I drive my truck The tach will sometimes bounce around until i let off and it idles then it will work and stay perfect still. Then I go to give is gas again and it works then all of a sudden bounces around then works. But just yesterday it seemed it was idling a little more i guess choppy than normal then seemed to run better later on after it was shut off. I put a code reader on it and got p0336 which is crank sensor A circuit range/performance. Also got p1690 which is a guess a communication error with the ECM and crank sensor I think. So should I just replace my crank sensor? Is there anything special you have to do other than remove the start…