2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I would like to try taking out the alternator fuse just to see if it helps, can you tell me where the fuse is for sure so i dont take out the wrong one (i know that sounds stupid) I just want to make sure i dont take out a relay or something - - - Updated - - - I was also wondering where the alternator diode is, since it said the guy changed the alternator and it didn't fix it i figured the diode isnt in the alternator

Guys, I've gotten the go ahead from Mike to put out some feelers for an article that would be useful for us. Let's face it. The newest 2nd gens are a decade old. The oldest 12v rumbled off the line 17 years ago. Engine swaps, junk yard parts crawls and even "Parts Trucks" are going to become a part of our vocabulary, much like they did the Mopars of the 1960s. We need to put together a parts change article, or several articles to illustrate the changes from year to year on our trucks. Having a breakdown of the differences will let us go to the yard and know what will and won't work, and also having photos of all this stuff wouldn't be horrible either! Eventually, thi…

I have a 02 Cummins H.O. 6 speed. I have the BHAF mod, 4'' exhaust, and I have the BD boost elbow ( not installed yet) and I'm looking at getting a tuner. My main concern is which style to go with. I could get a Edge EZ or Quadzilla XZT style that doesn't do anything to the programming of the ecm or I could get a Superchips or Hypertech that only changes the programing of the ecm. The main thing I don't like about the Superchips style is that you can't change tune while driving, but I do like that I can put a boost fooler on it and get a little more power. Which style does anyone recommend? Pros-cons. Thanks

Ok i have my 02 that was crashed and an 01. Both are H.O. 6pds. The 02 is 2wd and other is 4x4. I want to put the 02 in the 01. Has way less miles and is just in better shape. Will i have to swap computers? I want to take the gauge cluster from the 02 to have the miles match the engine. Should i have an issue or will this be an easy swap? The other thing is the 01 has a 15k old VP vs the 02 having a 80k or so old VP. Are the pumps the same with the two years? I would like to take the newer pump during the swap.Thanks

I finaly got a boost gauge hooked up (slow poke). Whats your boost gauge read when you are just cruzin 'bout 60 on a flat hwy, just light throutle cruzin for mpg, no grade?

I was told by my mechanic that put my tie rod ends on that I need to replace the right side upper control. Found that a replacement control arm is around $345.00 (ouch). He is going to try to replace the bushings and see if might solve the problem. Anyone care to share any information or personal experience in this area? I think he said that he had the front end up and had someone mash the brakes and he could see movement in the control arm. Also, when you are driving and apply the brakes you can hear a noise and feel a bit of a jerk in the front end.

When I did my valve lash adjustment I did not have a barring tool so I used the alternate method to turn the engine backwards using a ratchet and socket on the alternator... Here is my question/comment... I turned engine till I got TDC (everything was nice and smooth and quiet) did the valve adjustments then started turning engine to get to BDC... while I was turning everything was smooth and quiet and all of a sudden I start to hear a clicking noise every time I would turn over the engine... the sound persisted for about 5 or 6 turns on the rachet and then stopped... I never heard it again after that... It noise/clicking sounded like it was coming from the aft…

Well after installing my gauges and DDRP I finally got the P1688 "dead" code. My gauge still wasnt showing as much pressure as I thought it should have (12-15 idle...I could pull it below 5 with throttle). I'm pulling pressure thru top filter housing from outlet banjo thru a snubber. I assumed I should swap the filter anyhow. Regardless after I got up to temp, the truck stalled. When hot and bumping the starter the lift pump didnt seem to be running. Had no pressure and no start. I pulled code to get the P1688. Can the VP code cause the lift pump to not run (when hot)? After a few hours, I started truck and drove it to the house. Same pressures 12-15 at idle.I'…

Put on new tires and noticed a pronounced pull to the left. Checked the tie rod ends and found both sides with some play in each side. Is there supposed to be any play in them? Am approaching 100k miles so I guess I need to get new tie rod ends??? Just came off a 1200 mile trip and am not sure if I noticed the pull to the left with the old tires or not, if so, it was not as pronounced. I had the new tires on the left side switched to rule out a faulty tire. It still had the strong left pull.

I have been told by our shops head diesel guy that I can just install a Raptor 100 where the stock pump used to be and leave the retrofitted intank pump alone as it will simply draw thru it. I have to say that I am leery of this setup,I have a stock 99 3500 with 237,000 on it.He runs a 2000 CTD with 500+ HP so he's no dummy but I just want it right.I was hoping the pump was still in the stock location but it as not to be,aluminum junction block.I bought the truck dirt cheap and have only put 1500 or so miles on it,fuel pressure gauge will be installed in the next 2 weeks.So what to do,the truck will be driven rarely and will be lucky to get another 1500 on it by next…

I know I am off topic but I have to ask. I was checking out the picture of Mikes trucks with the fire trucks.Mike could you get me the info on your tire and wheel combo. I have 35's on 16 and a half inch wheels and looking to downsize. Your rig looks good with what you are running.Luke

Was wondering what fittings are being used with AD or FASS fuel systems to keep the stock filter housing in line.I live in the northeast and would like the security of having the fuel heater,also an extra filter cant be all that bad. I have a AD II 165 1/2 fuel line with quick connections and modified fuel canister(which im having problems with since ive installed but thats another story for another time).

Some of you may remember my "slightly disappointed with MPG" thread. My first fill-up since then I got 16.8 mpg, up from 14.2, just changing my driving style and installing a AFE stage 2 about halfway through the tank. Better, but not good enough yet. Still have to pinpoint the leak behind the head, not sure if it's at this banjo bolt which I have yet to find with my mirror lol, or the return line T fitting. So I'm expecting gains yet and still adjusting my driving, but good results so far.Anyways, I'm having a slight issue in low-mid 70 degree weather. Not only does it take noticeable longer to warm up, but it also flattens out at 1400 rpms or so through all the gears un…

I like having information to make educated decisions, so I've been reading as many forum posts from as many different forums as I could find and I've come to the decision that I now have a headache. I've got a few questions that I'm not finding answers for, so it's my turn to ask...Is there a difference in reliability between lift pumps that are externally adjustable for pressure +/- (eg Raptor, AD2 system, FASS adjustable) and those that need to have springs replaced (eg. most other FASS, AD system)? I do like the idea of external adjustability to fine tune fuel pressure. But is the external screw only compressing a spring to increase/decrease pressure as opposed to swap…

Ok thought I had resolved my Startup Idle issue... If you watch the video the second startup is what i am talking about... the first start it barley did it the last start was normal... This behavior can happen at anytime... cold engine starts, hot engine starts... sometimes have to crank for a for or five seconds and it will startup then do it... other times like in the video link below it starts easy and does it... the weird thing is... it does not do it all the time... The truck did not do this at all before the new injectors and lift pump... other then that I think it runs great... The link below is the idle issue... second start up... a little on the firs…

Just some background:I don't drive my 24v much anymore. 200,534 miles on the clock. In the last seven years I've only put 5200 miles on it. I last drove it three weeks ago and all was fine. This morning I turned the switch to on position and all the bells and such worked just fine. When I bumped the starter it would not turn over, just kind of drug but not fast enough to start. I cleaned the battrey cables and battrey posts, connected the battrey charger and It read "FULL CHARGE" so I tried to start it again but she would not go.I desided to drive my 97 GMC Sonoma which has not been started for a year, It was dead. I connected the battrey charger and It read "FULL CHAR…

changed my oil and filter today. and when i removed my tube from my air breather , i seen some oil in the turbo. a nice film with a few drop where it had pooled a little. the turbo is stock with a little over 190,000 on it. thanks in advance for the help. and the truck has set for about one week

Here is what it is doing: 1) Takes 1 to 1.5 secs to start... prior to injectrs/V adj... as soon as it turned over it would start.. 2) Rpm is around 740-750 with ever so slight bump to it... like its out of time or missing... it was very smooth prior to the install and had 780-800rpm. 3) I put it in reverse and it stalled (twice) when a bumped the throttle never done that before. 4) Noticeably more smoke (puff) at start up... and when i bump the throttle just sitting there it will puff smoke. Did not really do that before... 5) I was very careful installing injectors and crossover tubes they came with protective covers and i was very cautious when …

Does anyone know if I need to remove the crossmember? There is one nut on the bottom of the transfer case /od section that I can not seem to get to. Thanks

Over the past few days i've found that there is a dead spot in my accelerator pedal where either right off idle or at cruise at about 1/4 pedal the motor will drop in output, and if in OD the converter will pop in and out of lockup as if I were making wild swings with the accelerator pedal. I haven't checked for codes yet, but I haven't seen a check engine light either. Otherwise the truck runs great. New batteries recently, and I really should check contacts and grounds, but its a weird issue regardless. Any bright ideas?