2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Posted a couple days ago reference subject code. Did the key trick again this AM and the code still shows. However, my Scan Gauge and 2 Hand Held gauges did not pick it up. I'm the original owner (90k miles on truck) and have not any problems with codes before Had the not scanned for code in about three years. Had a transmission fluid change last week which I think included a T/C flush also. I have noticed my tranny temp in the 190 to 200 range since which is a bit higher than it was running before. If I'm not wrong it was running well below 170 towing. Have a 3k mile r/t set up to begin Monday so If I need to get something done any advice will be greatly appreciate…

Hi all. I haven't been on here in several months. Was rebuilding my motorcycle. Anyway, it appears that my power steering lines are leaking pretty bad, and looking for any advice on best way to change them out. I'm not sure yet which one is leaking as I need to clean it up and take a better look. Is there anything special I need to know? Thanks.

My new truck has a Karr security system in it. I think Karr is out of business, and I can't seem to find a manual and I don't really even know the model of the system, but I want it gone.Any bright Ideas guys? I can upload photos saturday or sunday.

What is the 'average' life-cycle for an injector to operate properly? I realize there are hundreds of variables to take into account, but "on average", is it 100k mi? 120k? 150k?I'm starting this, due to the fact that I'm chasing down an issue with my truck, and ramhunter9 (Dave) and I spoke about this yesterday, for about 30 minutes or so.My truck has 180,000 on it, as of last weekend. I've been experiencing some mildly odd fuel issues, especially in the past six months. As you can see in my signature, I'm basically stock, with few minor mods:Edge Juice w/ Attitude + HotUnlockBoost Elbow5" exhaustBHAFFP is around 13-14psi WOT, 17-19psi no-loadRundown:I bought this tr…

Hey everyone. I posted on Cumminsforum, but nobody like writing back. Hopefully, some more activity here.Anyway, my truck is making a new noise that is concerning me. As I'm driving, there is recently a lot of driveline whine which has gotten louder. Under power, it sounds like the rear. Just recently, there is a new addition to the party. When I let off the gas, and the engine is holding back from about 40-MPH to 10-MPH, there is a clicking noise that slows as the truck slows (remember, my transmission has a strong lockout). So, I thought U-joints, right? Well, I crawled under the truck and checked the front and rear u-joints and they seem fine. They are spicers after al…

Guys,A bit of input please. I am very interested in purchasing an exhaust brake. I see that there are some that will work with my existing vacuum system and some that use compressed air..... Not certain that I want to add a compressor and associated cost.(boy it seems nice and would work for the arb in the future....) My question mainly revolves around the connection to the exhaust. I need to replace my exhaust, and I was looking at the 4" diamond eye. Many of the lesser cost Exhaust brakes I am finding (Jacobs, Banks etc...) Say works with stock exhaust only. (I am looking at the elbow type brakes.) Since the Diamond eye would replace a "stock" exhaust, woul…

Just did the key trick and found a P0500. I find on the Forum that it has to do with the Speed Sensor Control. Planning on leaving on a 2.5 month trip next Monday and was wondering what action to take, if any, before I leave. Also, being a non motor head old fart, I don't know how to clear the code. If it just affects the speed, I have a GPS and a Scan Gauge on board. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Sorry guys this could get a bit long. So I will try and stay on point. Key trick shows 1 PCM code P05000 and 2 ECM codes p0222 and p0217. (I do have a SES light and solid BRAKE light showing on cluster) Since these appeared after some major repairs, and during a new frrp install, I tried to just clear them and see if they come back. I first connected an Actron CP9035. It showed only the P0222 code, and would not clear it. Ok, so I pull out my Auto X-Ray EZ-6000. It connects fine (a bit slower than most other cars, but connects and shows intake air temp, throttle position, coolant temp, vehicle speed etc in real time) It sees only 1 code p…

So i recently installed some new rv275's and love them. However i need to rebuild or replace the turbo as i have high temps most of the time cruising at 65 no load or towing. I do need to test for air leaks but i am pretty sure i dont have any. At stock setting it will run 700-800 any setting above stock and im easily hitting 900+ when i step into the skinny pedal. on setting 5 it will make the turbo sing and barely the 30 psi i have it set for defuel but i can easily get it over 1200F if i want but dont like it. I do get a lot of smoke on the bottom end of each gear but once the turbo is spooled its not bad if any at all. the lag on the stocker is long though... It is …

when I'm cruising with my cummins at a constant speed close to the range where my tranny should be shipping gear,my rpm goes up & down roughly 200 to 300.what controls the shifting is it a vaccum set up or electric?This does it any time I'm cruising in the range it should be shifting.I checked my fuel pressure it's roughly at 12 psi constant no fluctuation.I was thinking maybe a vaccum leak or low voltage.The rpm fluctuates more when shifting to overdrive and keeping a constant speed 45 mph,anything over 55 mph no fluctuation.It you keep a constant speed in the shiftihg range of any gear rpm fluctuates,worst when going to overdrive.If I'm pulling a load there is no sl…

I have to say that I've never really paid attention to it before, but I noticed something about my truck this past weekend...With the EJ w/A, 1st and changing into 2nd gear (5600 trans) rapping it up to around 2500-2800rpm each time (from a dead stop) seems almost lethargic in acceleration. But 3rd gear, the truck takes off like a rocket. Same with 4th, and 5th. It's not just due to the short gearing; at least it doesn't feel like it. It feels as though the truck has, say 200hp in 1st, 200hp in 2nd, and 300 in 3rd, and so on.Is that the ECM's control vs speed or something? Or is it in the Edge?

I replaced my water pump a few months ago and ever since I have had fluctuating temps. The new pump is a bosch from pepboys and had a shroud on the impeller and the old unit did not, I also noticed the new one was harder to turn than the old one but that is to be expected. My temp used to set right around 188-194 and now driving down the interstate at 70 I get swings from 188-222 today. It would go up pretty fast and come back down to around 200-205 or so but I cant help but theink its the new pump. I may try a new radiator cap too but what does everyone think? --- Update to the previous post... The old pump worked great but I did a coolant flush and it leaked f…

Alright, so reading into another topic, I see a recommendation was made to make upgrades to the transmission area when installing an exhaust brake.I called Pac brake, and the guy said he had never heard of doing such a thing. All he mentioned was that the auto's have a controller.It really is not much for me to go off of. So if I go pac brake down the road and don't install a stiffer flexplate and input shaft, will I be risking it?

So, right now, I have the stock HX35 and stock sticks. Edge Juice w/Attitude on 3x3 (Drive-mode). I have a set of 155hp BD Pulse-XXX sticks in the garage. My perfect-world scenario would be go to twins, but that's not in the checkbook right now. So, I'm looking at possibly going to either HX40, Silver Bullet, or Super B, or something along those lines, provided they're large enough to air the 155 sticks. I'm not scared to buy a used turbo, either, provided it's from someone I can trust (forum friend, etc.) as the > $1000 price tags are not an option for me. I still need to install my dual-disc clutch, and I need to do tire, brakes, and a radiato…

Ok well we'll see if I can keep y'all engaged here... The pull was from Katy Texas, Camping World RV to San Antonio. About 188.2 miles according to Google Map. For those who may not know, it's flat, with rolling hills (I use that word loosely, big mounds of dirt is more like it). This will come into play later. Here is my set up and whats in my sig. It sat nice. I did pre-hook up measurements with my airlift bags. They were as fallows: From the concrete to the bottom of the receiver hitch on the bumper 5 psi - 21 3/4" 50 psi - 23" 70 psi - 23 1/2" 90 psi - 23 7/8" (100 psi is the max but I just did 90 for 20 psi increments) Here …

Guys, school me on these please. I need to upgrade my current (stock replacement) converter and valvebody. On the 47RE how do I up my line pressure so I can lockup the converter safely when going downhill?

lost my key .. there are some numbers stamped on housing 045 / -052 degree do you think this is my key number .. and if so who is best place to get a new key

Somehow I managed to break the black plastic bit that the clips on the connector engage to hold in place, and so my transmission is hanging on by nothing more than simple friction. I know I, going to have to drop the valve body to replace it, my question is this: where the heck do I get the connector?

Retracted question

I have a miss as far as I can determine it is #6 cyl. I have eliminated the injection pump (VP44) because I can open all the fuel lines(short of #2,because of the intake) that make a difference in the RPM's (other words 2 cyls missing)except for #6 which has fuel being delivered,thus I have eliminated the VP44,I guess I need too make sure the valve's are opening correctly(which I thought I already did,but need double check)I have had the Injectors cleaned and set for proper pop pressure here at Diesel Specialties,No codes, so I know that I need to pull the head(not what I want to do) unless someone has another suggestion.