2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So my new truck has been having a problem particularly when cold. When shifting from 1st to 2nd it would shift up and down quickly a couple times and then continue through the gears normally. I had a tps code at one point and talked to a local transmission shop and they mentioned it could be the throttle position sensor. I hooked up the shops scan tool and noticed the old sensor would only read to 87% not 100% when throttle was all the way down. I bought a new tps and replaced it along with the apps learn. It worked at first kind of but only got to 91%. I took it for a drive. It did not solve my hunting issue so I looked down at the scanner and now the tps was readin…

So I have a 2000 dodge ram 2500 24 valve as far as I know has 345k miles on it. Runs pretty good I guess but the mileage is concerning. I wanted to do some mods maybe get 350 400 hp but the mileage concerns me. I did the oil fill cap blow by test and it doesn't move a mm. The engine does need multiple oil leaks fixed but other wise seems OK despite some recent electrical issues. Should I consider giving it a rebuild or atleast rolling some new bearings in it before squeezing some mo powa out of it? Or should I just send it and figure it out later. I am willing to spend some money but am definitely on a budget.

It was a cold morning at the campground, 24°F, so before starting the truck's engine I flipped the switch to cancel the grid heater bypass and let them do their thing. After the grid heaters cycled the engine was started just fine with all the gauges coming alive. Once the oil reached safe operating pressure I flipped the switch which turns on the onboard air compressor for the exhaust brake. It was now time to get the show on the road and shift to drive; what the, "check engine" light is on. I pull out my handy dandy code reader an get this: P0753 Transmission 3-4 Shift Solenoid / Transmission Relay Circuits P1765 Transmission 12-Volt Sup…

I have the preface this post with: great community here with an insane wealth of knowledge and skill. This forum has been a time and money saver numerous times. All contributors are much appreciated. I encountered an interesting problem on the way home from work today. I had very little “guts” at highway speeds. I normally set cruise control around 70 and have plenty of power to accelerate up to 80+ without hesitation. Today I basically had to floor it and it felt like someone sapped the power right out of her. When I got home I poked around the engine bay a bit. Made sure I had good vacuum connections. Nothing out of the ordinary. I took her…

Hey everyone about two weeks ago I purchased a 2000 ram 2500 5.9 with a 47re. It had a stumble at idle but never left me stranded in the two weeks driving it. I was reading about possible alternator noise causing problems so I replaced it with a remanned alternator. The new alternator went up in smoke had a short in it somewhere is my best guess. So I switched the old alternator back into the truck since it was still charging atleast. I got started driving maybe a mile or so and my alternator gauge needle went to the bottom and the cluster said check gauges. I pulled over for a sec to check the plug on the alternator. Got back in started moving and the gauges d…

Hello all, Im looking for a little help,i recently acquired my truck a few months ago and its my first diesel so i dont know a lot about them but ive learned quite a bit reading the forums. I want to upgrade my turbo and injectors. What would be a good combination to achieve 400-450hp goal? Whats a good brand that that is decently priced? I will be installing a 4 inch exhaust at the same time. I tow a dump trailer either loaded with firewood or scrap metal at least a couple times a month. Truck is a 2001 6 speed manual . Whats been done to the truck so far as far as mods go is in my signature.

Lift Pump Bypass for VP44 Trucks? The Modification – This subject matter might be a bit controversial, but I believe I have found a good solution regarding driving a VP44 equipped truck when a lift pump has failed while on the road. After I did an experiment for checking fuel return volume from the VP44 fuel injection pump on my truck, I realized that I came upon what I believe to be a simple solution to one of the biggest fears for VP44 truck owners - a lift pump failure while on a road trip. For the experiment I routed a fuel line with a one-way check valve around the lift pump so fuel would still flow when the lift pump was non-operational (simulating an …

So I recently got back into messing with my truck, and I've been messing with quad. Starting logging what my truck was doing with "hot" tunes, noticed I wasn't building boost beyond 18psi. It would build up to 18, then drop to 14-15psi. I suspected boost leak, so I made a janky boost leak tester (which failed epically), and found a tiny leak on the right side boot going into the inter-cooler. My former diesel professor suggested I use a smoke machine to check for leaks, which I did, and didn't find anything. I went ahead and ordered a cheap set of silicone boots for my truck anyway. I reused my old t-clamps, and although they were a huge pita to put on, I got…

I have 4.10's in the red 99, plan to get another one but with 3.54's. I plan to convert to SRW, it's an nv4500, I was curious how big of a tire I could run to make the 4.10s= 3.54. I'll probably be on 20x10 or 20x12

If the crankcase vent was clogged or had a partial blockage would/could it cause higher oil pressure?

If its not one thing its another. With the help of you guys finally got the obvious issues resolved with my white beast. Now however about a week ago the truck started producing a new quite loud sound when I let up on the accelerator. Hard to reproduce in letters but sort of a "whirrr" or "rurrr" noise that starts the moment I take my foot off of the fuel pedal and continues until the rpms drop. The harder I am accelerating when I release the pedal, the louder it is. I do not hear it when I am accelerating but at that time the exhaust noise may be covering up the sound. I don't notice any driving issues (truck seems to be running normally) and no check engine light,…

( 2000 Ram 1 tn 4wd diesel auto, 340000 miles) Now that I got my fuel pressure issue solved, my brakes have decided to act up. They have been "spongy" and not strong stoppers for about 200 miles. I was going to wait till I got home to address the problem. Now however the Brake and ABS dash lights have come on permanently when driving. I also do not hear the semi loud "boom" I always heard in the past when turning the key on. I am aware of the sensor on the rear differential, but is this the kind of symptom that a failed sensor would cause? Also is there not a 6 pin brake switch somewhere that occasionally fails. Any help or thoughts would be appreciated. Booster, master …

Hey all, First time posting on the forum, but have used it in the past to fix some of my other trucks issues, some great information on here. I’ve got a problem with my 1998.5, 2500, 4x4, nv4500, 263k miles. Truck is stock with no aftermarket performance mods, and it is unfortunately a 53 block. I bought the truck recently as a back up for my 1997 7.3 as it just ticked over 500k miles and is gonna need a rebuild soon. Three weeks after I bought the truck it began giving me hard starts only after it reached operating temp. I falsely diagnosed this as a fried vp44 pump, given the fact that it still had a factory style lift pump, so I put a r…

My brother-in-law moved his 2003 2500 4wd NV5600 truck yesterday. While he was moving it, I noticed a ticking sound coming from under the hood. Upon investigation we found the whole clutch fan assembly laying in the bottom of the radiator shroud. Not what I expected. The unit had unscrewed itself from the threaded pulley hub. The interesting part is that there is hardly any damage. The large clutch fan nut shows witness marks where the outside of the crank pulley was rubbing and two fan blades show similar wear from rubbing on the crank pulley hub. The fan blades never contacted the radiator or anything else (including the fan clutch thermal switch and wiring harness), wh…

I recently had my 98.5 vp44 engine rebuilt due to a melted piston after the truck was stolen. Ever since the rebuild I have had a smoke issue. Under light throttle, the truck smokes black. Running empty down the freeway the truck constantly smokes black. Smoke is worse pulling a trailer. Truck starts great, idles clean. No crank pressure. Oil level does not increase or decrease. No codes showing. BUILD: -Block was sent to a machine shop, bored 0.020” and decked 0.010”. Running a thicker head gasket to maintain factory compression ratio. -D&J stage 1 head w/ orings -Hamilton 178/208 cam w/103lb valve springs. -New vp44 -7x0.010 Sac injectors -62/68/1…

Have a 99 Ram, it was shutting down when I would turn on the headlights. I determined that the 2 wires going to the grid heater relay is coming on with the headlights. It is a orange/black and a yellow/black wire. from a diagram, I see that this comes out of the ECM and triggers + 12 when the key is turned on depending on temp. I am trying to trace these wires back to the ECM and having a tough time. It looks as though the loom may go through the firewall and into the cab.

Well after some of my other posts, most know about fuel issues which got solved with new injectors. Drove amazing for what ever it was 1-2 weeks, then all of a sudden today going to work I slowed down on the off ramp at my exit started hearing and feeling this "Bad fuel knock video" Truck is very hard to start- acting like it's not getting fuel- after sitting for awhile. In video I am loading truck on trailer to bring home. This is my daily and I'm kinda up the creek without a paddle atm. Could new injector(s) be bad or injection pump took a $#!% or worse?!?! *No check engine light or codes via key flip. Edit: Update Started the truck, sm…

I am working on a home made PSG unit and needed to know the min and max absolute timing. So I improvised a degree wheel and blew back into the #1 port with the pump shaft key way centered with the mark on the front of the pump by the seal. I could blow back about 30 deg before and 30 deg after which is +60 and - 60 at the crankshaft. I noticed that the port starts to close up about 3 degrees sooner because of the port hole width. There is also about 1 degree of overlap where two ports are very slightly exposed. I then measured the rotor, slot and ports then did the math and it confirmed my findings. So never try to inject past ~54 degrees either…

Good morning, I bought what I thought was a good deal of a truck during the pandemic, a 1998.5 3500 auto dually. This forum has been very helpful thus far but I feel like I have hit a bit of a wall and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions before I go down too many rabbit holes. Currently my truck is showing a P1698 code, which can be cleared but immediately returns. It s very hard to start but will get going, rev and not throw the code when in park or neutral. As soon as it is in gear and a load is applied the code pops and the engine derates. After installing the new vp44 it was running and staring very well. P1689 started suddenly on my wa…

Howdy! The truck: '02 2500 4x4 with the 47re transmission. Gonna do my best to bang this out in the most concise way possible. The problem: under hard acceleration from low speeds to highway speed and also cruising along above about 68 MPH I am experiencing what feels like a hard shudder or very quick cut outs. Recently preformed the grounding mod described in W-T's thread "Ground Reference VP44,ECM,PCM,PDC plus TC lock/unlock". Batteries are fairly new and terminals are clean. VP44 and lift pump both replaced at the same time a few years ago. VP44 came from Industrial Injection and I usually run 2 stroke oil in the fuel. FASS Titanium 95gph lift pump. Just chang…