2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have 2001 Dodge Ram with cummings engine. Has the following symptoms [*]Sometimes you get in and turn key and it will turn over and over and never hits a lick, but if you turn key off and try again it cranks right up. [*]Sometimes you get in and it cranks the first try [*]Does not matter if it's hot or cold [*]Sometimes it seems to be slugish (as in it will slow down on a hill and if you step on it, keeps slowing down), the next drive is just fine all the power you need. I have done the following [*]New fuel filter [*]Checked pressure and it's 21 PSI at idle, using the test location at the injector pump [*]Not sure about the following, it only pu…

Good Morning Everybody,About 4 days ago i was driving and got a check engine light, did the 3 key on procedure and found code P1693 then the check engine light was gone, went to mechanic hooked obdII scanner and found no codes. Driving back home when i got to a stop sign i exprerienced "dead pedal" and got check engine light again, and drove home at idle speed and sometimes after a few blocks it came back to normal. I hooked obd II scanner and got code "P0223" THROTTLE PEDAL POSITION SENSOR/SWITCH B CIRCUIT HIGH. I went ahead and ordered TIMBO apps sensor, received yesterday and did the voltage adjustment, started the truck and drove it for about 15 miles and was wor…

Truck will not start, fuel pressure @ 4-7 psi, flow after 30sec. app 8 oz. This will be the fourth pump. [*] :banghead: The last two were the "campaign" pump. I've read the thread "fuel pump issues" but the last post to it was March of 09. What is a good pump that will give me 17 psi, last for more than 50k miles, and not brake the bank?

Okay so my truck has done this a few times. I hit the key and all I get is a click. Just one "click" and no start. It did it the other day and I was able to get it to jump start it with my girl's car. I tested the batteries and they test out fine. I decided to drop the starter and see if I could tell anything but I don't know really what to look for. I replaced the plunger and contacts a while back (maybe a year) and they don't look bad from what I can tell. What I'm looking for is ideas please!

when i got home this evening i smelled a slight wiff of diesel. looked up under the truck and saw some fuel on the underside of the intake. it appears that i have some fuel weeping out of the injector lines where the connect to the head.it seems to be runnig to the back of the intake and down. over the years i have had to crack them open on occasions. are there not some o rings or some other form of seal that might need to be replaced at these connnections?

The "Wait to start" indicator on the dash does not come on and the beast is hard to start first time. (The coldest it ever gets here is maybe 60 F at night). Apparently no intake heat happening. This just started happening after a mechanic had it to fix the power steering. Don't see any loose wires in the area. Any suggestions?

I know from looking over the net, and exploring the site this could be many things, but I really need help with this. My 2001 Dodge 2500 starts perfectly when cold. The truck is hard to start AFTER it is brought up to normal operating temperature and attempt to restart after shutdown. It cranks for a bit, finally turns over, and then blows a bit of black smoke and runs perfectly.It does have the relay installed that shuts off power to the VP44 while cranking (this fixed the hard starting I experienced before). I have replaced this relay to make sure that this is not the reason for the problem now. I replaced the lift pump two years ago. It is a FASS DDRP2. I have a dash m…

My friend who is helping me with my vp44 install. Has the same truck as me (see sig). His truck has been clicking when he would turn the key click click click. He would just turn it off and it would then start. It got to the point where it was annoying and he first switched the fuel relay over to the starter relay to see if that would make a difference and it still clicked. ( I am not sure if they are even the same relays) ? So he decided to put a new starter in tonite. Well now it just clicks once and it will not start. If you hot wire it from the batt to the starter it starts right up. Any thoughts or Ideas we can try when he comes over tomorrow. Would really like to tr…

I finally installed a fuel pressure gauge in my truck. Now I'm wondering what normal operating pressure is. I have an Air Dog 150 and my pressure runs around 18-20. When I get on it, it goes down to about 16 - 18. At start up when the pump cycles it goes to 20. Is that too much? And if so how can I turn the AirDog down?I also noticed today that it was jumping around between 18 - 20 at idle.Lucky

This problem is starting to happen more after a warm or hot restart within the first mile, tach drops down to nothing, CE light comes on, engine rattles real hard for a mile or two. If I was to stop at a light, the engine has a rough idle, today I put it in neutral I kept juicin' it a little just so it wouldn't stall. After a mile down the road it all returned to normal. My FP was in my normal14-16 range while driving the entire time.:shrug:Anyone experience this?Dave

About a week ago my wife went to drive my truck and it wouldn't start. It cranked but didn't even try to fire. Oddly the lift pump (airdog 150) ran when the key was first switched on but not after cranking like it always has. Also weird wad the lack of any attempt to fire. A few minutes later I tried again and it fired right up. Today after getting tires it did it again the techs had to push it out of the shop. Once again after about 15 mins of messing around it fired. Same symptoms. Now's its fine again. The truck runs fine once started, no codes, and its runs 14-15psi of fuel pressure. Reading about the internet I see the asd relay being a potential issue. I…

If the vp is not tapped and just running say a Edge EZ or comp will it make the vp run hotter. Reason I ask is it is so dang hot down here I dont wont to stress my Bulechip lined with gold vp:lmao2: anymore than I have to.

New Blue Chip VP-44New Mopar ECM with Mopar flashNew Raptor 150 with line kitGlacier Big Line kitNew Fuel FilterISSPRO Fuel Pressure with Ashcorft ss snubber (Mounted on the canister)No Codes (With Reader)Fuel Pressure 18 PSI Idle, 16-17 WOTIn the morning, it takes 45 seconds to over a minute of cranking to fire; once it does (with ALOT of smoke) it immediately settles down to a smooth consistent idle. The longer the truck sits, the longer it takes to crank.I have the clear 3/8" line hooked to it now with zero signs of air leakage. It still exhibits the symptoms above --- Update to the previous post... <a href='http://www.nopistons.com/forums/gallery/image/62…

I just had the VP44 and the lift pump on my 98.5 Dodge replaced. At idle, the engine surges from 600 to 800 rpm and wants to die when the accelerator is pressed. The injectors have been bled once, the pump has been primed with the key trick once or twice and I am not sure if the APPS reset has been done. A friend is doing the actual work, he is a heavy equipment diesel mechanic and has never worked on a Dodge. I do trust his work mechanically. Am I right in thinking we need to reset the APPS, prime it a half dozen times and bleed it one more time?It's kind of funny, I have been reading on here for several years now and never had a reason to post. My old 92 12V just never …

My truck sputtered out on me this morning. Started just fine and ran about twenty miles and then it gave one quick sputter and it just died. It wants to turn over but will not. I checked the codes and there are none. It has been running just fine no probs. I pulled the injector lines and I am getting fuel thru them. I can hear the lift pump working when I turn the key. Its like it is out of diesel ? perhaps bad gas ? I had about 1/4 of a tank on Friday so I filled up and have driven about 40 miles total with the new diesel with no problem till now. I did not look at my FP gauge this morning, when I started the truck but it was working just fine on friday always right at 1…

Hi guys, I ordered one of those bluetooth plug in obd II scanners and tried it out tonight. I finally got it to read and I came up with an error code. I'll include a photo I took of the screen, but it was: P0234 Turbo/Super Charger Overboost Condition. Well, I think I just tripped across a list elsewhere on the site. Can someone confirm that this is the same code, as it isn't labeled the same but the number is the same. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2569-P0234-Turbo-Boost-Limit-Exceeded Next question: How worried by this should I be and is this telling me of a cascade of problems in front of me? Thanks to all, Jamman

Hello all, I am new to this site and wanted to kick something around maybe get some feedback and troubleshooting help. When i would turn on the truck, i would usually let it idle for awhile. I would put it in “D”, push on the gas, the truck would start to travel, than it will suddenly get the case of the "dead pedal" and then kick into gear. This started in a sporadic fashion. It then led to a daily ritual to get to work having to rev-up the engine in order for the truck to move. I have briefly explained below how I got to this point. The beginning of this story is as follows: I initially replaced the fuel lift pump when I first got the signs of white smoke c…

Cliff notes for Raptor 100 and Autometer fuel pressure sending unit and snubber install, just in case I screwed something up along the way I’ll thoroughly explain, main questions will be in bold font to make easier to read (I hope): FP Sender - Removed lines going in and out of filter housing (½” ID 35psi fuel/emissions hose from Goodyear, worm gear hose clamp attaches over male fittings). Removed old fp sender which was smutted into filter drain valve and fitting. Reinstalled fitting with additional sealing washer (per Autometer) to index port at an angle away from drain tube, installed new sender and snubber. Bolted filter back into place and reattached hose from f…

Replaced my filter not long ago and noticed when i filled the cannister (black cap off) the fuel level rose and than disappeared. I thought maybe the filter absorbed the fuel, therefore tried it again with the same result. Shouldn't the fuel stay within the cannister or does it return back to the tank? Any feedback would be appreciated.

Pcm voltage regulator went out in my truck so I put in an older dodge external v. regulator. Works great at 14.6v until you drive about 5 miles then the check gauges light comes on and voltage reads pegged past 18v. I take readings at fuse block where alternator charging wire is and it is reading 14.6v. what the hell is going on? Voltage regulator is hooked up blue wire 12v switched ignition to cigarette lighter and green is to the plug on alternator. Even put on another ground from vr to ground on battery. Anyone have any suggestions?