2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So, I've owned my truck for 6 years, it has 135k miles on it, never drivin in winter.... it has an edge comp and has been 100% reliable and has never broken down... last summer I was driving and the truck started to loose power, I immediately pulled over to find fuel dripping and sprayed on the driver side of the motor. I still had 15psi at idle. I found the return fuel line was snapped off right after the banjo bolt connection. All things behind the pump and under got wet. I fixed the line with a new oem line and over flow banjo bolt with gaskets. **I proceeded to drive it and the truck wouldn't rev up over 1700 rpm, went dead pedal then tried to g…

A few months ago I replaced the in tank lift pump & kept the old one to take apart & mess around with. I really like the idea of the fuel pump in the tank, IMO that is where the pump should be. the Gasser cars get hundreds of thousands of miles on in tank pumps @ high pressure, It sure seems like someone should be able to make a diesel transfer pump that could do the same..... in any case, Ive often wondered what the yellow cross thing is in the module so I took it apart & figured you guys might want to see.. I figured someone might need to know which wires goto which pins on the inside connector. …

Have a no start condition with my 2000 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad 4x4 Cummins Diesel (approx 545k miles I think...been a while since it was running). Went through the “BLUE CHIP DIESEL – NO START TESTS”. Truck started when I hot-wired the VP44, which stunned me! But before the hot wire: initially had 12.7v on pin #7 of VP44 plug (with respect to battery…had the charger on the batteries) in “run” key position, dropped down to 12v while cranking (“start” position). Testing between pin #6 (ground) and pin #7, had 12.7v with key in “run” position…then in “start” voltage dropped down to 6v and fluctuated between 6v and 11v not coming back up to 12v until key …

I have 98 ram 2500 5.9 24v cummins. Very new to diesels. I have no tachometer and rough downshift between 20-30 mph. I replaced tps. Cam .crank sensors. Really getting frustrated now. I have new ecm. New pcm. Please help. I have tons of money I to this truck I love it but always fix g it and don't know a lot about them . I'm getting codes for crank sensor and tps . Also my a/c blower loses power sometimes not sure if it has a short or what but I been on Google for weeks and just started forum for fist time I'm lost when come to electrical . Thank you.

I went to remove my filter to look at doing the lockup switch the other day. I noticed an oily mess on the firewall and around the A/C components. At first I thought my A/C was leaking though it still works great. I checked the turbo and noticed a fair amount of shaft play and the blades are turning black and sticky. It also appears oil is seeping out the back side of the housing as well which is where I think the mess came from. I was really hoping to do something different with the turbo when this happened but unfortunately I am strapped for cash as I can barely afford the rebuild. I dropped the turbo off at Master Tech in Boise as they came highly recommended an…

That sucked.. My arm is all scratched up from givin' the ol' Cummins the 'reach-around' At any rate, the old sender was bad; it stayed at 70psi, even with the engine not running.. So dually was kind enough to send me a spare he had (many, many thanks, dually, btw!) Now, the OP gauge is working properly, and the Edge is now reading oil pressure.. idle, operating temp, is ~55psi, and 2100rpm is 77psi. 184k mi, and due for an oil change.. At any rate, thank you, dually !

I'm going to unwrap and repair my engine wire harness. I figured that I should document what it is, so that I can put it back together when I'm done. This is an image I stitched together after taking about 20 separate pictures. Full_Stitch_6_5600x1000.zip

Hey guys I have a 2002 3500 5.9 L That Need some Trans work. How hard is it to re-build The trans??

Is Quadzilla a "live data tool" or is the "live data tool" a section within the Quadzilla? ( I know beginners = real pain in rear) (edit part...adding onto post) I need a code reader and unsure what to get and at same I would like a little more power. I've been reading this thread https://mopar1973man.com/topic/11729-quadzilla-adrenaline-v2-testing/?tab=comments#comment-140263 and it seems it would work for me. But terminology and knowledge totally lacking on my part. Thanks

I'm having issues with my torque convertor in my 01. I have access to a complete 96 12 valve 4x4 that has a 5 speed but was rolled. I can get the whole powertrain for under $1500. Will all the parts flywheel etc transfer to my 24 valve? I don't really want to put the 12 valve in. I thought I may sell it a recoupe my money spent. Is there any electrical issues I will face? I think the pedals will swap in as the cabs I believe are identical. What about the center hump in the cab? I know it's a ton of work but it would solve any future auto trans troubles, and clutches are easy to change. Has anyone done this? Did you miss your auto afterward?

Can this be due to a bad IAT sensor?

I just finished installing the quadzilla this evening and man am i happy with that choice. Brought the ole dually back to life and then some. I’m planning on installing my new Fass 95 signature series at some point this weekend. My truck has the pump on the block, per the instructions from Fass my fuel suction will be utilizing the factory setup. Now I’ve read about 1/4 tank issues and updating to a better draw straw..but what if I never run my fuel that low..do I still need to make this upgrade? Or am gonna need to go a different route?

I just checked out the XDP fuel tank sump and like the idea of it. I can install it without pulling the fuel tank. Are any of you guys running one? They are a bit pricy, but worth it I think. If I install one I'll go with a half inch stainless line to the front and mount my Air Dog FRRP back near the tank. That should solve any fuel issues.

Just like the title says... the truck won't shift out of 1st at any throttle position unless I take my foot completely off the throttle, then get back on it. Once it's out of 1st and past ~28mph, it shifts 2-3 and 3-4 completely normally. It will try to kick down into 1 if I go WOT/WFO under about 45mph. And if I floor it at low speed, it'll hold 1st all the way to redline, and won't shift. Is this a governor issue? I replaced the solenoid and sensor back in 2010 with dealer parts. I'm ready to order the Suncoast governor kit, I just want to make sure it's (probably) not something else...

so i got something in my drivetrain kinda hooking up making a poping sound in 2high, It only dose it in reverse with the wheel cranked to the right.(in 2hi) i don’t feel it or hear it with the wheel cranked to the left. I also can’t make it pop going fed in either direction (in 2hi) In 4high I can make it pop going forward with the wheel either way, like barely half to 3/4 turn not even cranked. if i kept wheel straight in sounds fine but turning the wheel either way it was binding up hard. I was on dry pavement so i know it 4high this is somewhat normal. I am more concerned about the 2hi noise. I cant find any play in any axel joint or u joint…

I don't know exactly what did the trick. Went for a test run and pressure is up over 14 on a stock pump. It stays there on wot.All I did was take the top off the stock pump and removed the screen on the inlet side. I know I can junk the screen cause I have a prefilter.Just wanted to let you guys know how it made a difference. I think I can attribute it to that.

First, I have tried two different readers. I bought a cheap actron and it say's "no link". So I borrowed a nicer one from a buddy from work and it says, "can not establish connection, check port connection." It's acting like I have a dead port. Any suggestions? Second, the problem i am having is it's gone dead pedal on me twice now in the last week. The engine just drops right to an idle and the cel comes on. It idles just fine, not rough at all just no pedal. Both times it has only lasted 15 - 20 seconds and come right out of it. The cel stays on for about a day then it goes out. Anyone run onto this before? The dead port I mean, I have read about a thousand threads on …

Hey everyone, I bought my first diesel about a year ago and have been learning a ton through you all here. Thanks so much for this forum! From my research, it seems common for the 5.9's to 'mark their territory' with a little drop of oil. After driving the truck and then parking it, it seems to leave 3-5 drops of oil. I shared a picture underneath the truck where the drops seem to be coming from, but honestly couldn't figure out what this part is. I read the FSM and think maybe it's my VP44? Any advice on if a few drops of oil is normal, should I fix this asap, or not worry about it? thanks! Jared

What’s up guys? I recently had some issues with my truck which caused me to pull codes on it. When I did that I read the “diagnosis” on 2 different handheld OBDII scanner. Both of them were showing around 13% on the apps or tps. I have tried to mess with it to recalibrate it before but when I do mess with it, it throws a code and the CEL comes on. I have noticed that I have to pushed the peddle further than I should to get the truck to accelerate. It is an aftermarket APPS that is on the truck. Back when I bought the truck I assumed it would solve my ground/ lock/unlock issue. Then I realize that had nothing to do with it and never switched it back to the factory one beca…

So here's my situation: I removed my VP44 today. The previous owner of my truck has glowshift gauges installed and the fuel pressure gauge is shot. While my truck is down, I'm tearing out any wires and connections this guy installed for the gauges. He has the top of the exhaust manifold drilled out for EGT's, which is good so hopefully I can use this for my Edge EGT tap. He had the VP tapped into with the fuel pressure sending unit which is now off completely. Here's where I'm a little confused. He has the third bolt of the injector lines hold down bracket tapped into with some kind of tube that runs to the back of the gauge pod. What is this for? Should I replace it with…