2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,279 topics in this forum
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After seeing that submerged axle thread I got to thinking about what other maintenance items I need to address, axles included, which I don't do now. Please take a look at my current regimen and let me know what else I need to be doing to keep this truck on the road. 5K - Rotella 15W40, Fleetguard Oil filter, tire rotation10K - Fleetguard Fuel filter25K - BG Transmission Fluid Exchange - O'Reilly's ATF+4100K - BHAF changeI guess I need to do axles too but I don't know how or really anything about it - mileage, type of oil, etc.Thanks fellas!
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I am trying to figure out how the motor mounts will work. I do believe my towing capacity will improve. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/W%C3%A4rtsil%C3%A4-Sulzer_14RTFLEX96-C
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just wanted to check an see if anyone has done this or heard of this ........putting larger diameter fuel tubes from the injection pump to the injectors.....somewhere in the neighborhood of .093 diameter...supposedly makes the truck have a loping sound .....does anyone know of any drawbacks/downfalls
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Just a quick post about my new exhaust. I had only a stock downpipe and a short piece, cut off right before the OE muffler, coupled with a turn-down. That was it..So I got a Diamond Eye Galv. Steel 5" turbo-back exhaust from my buddy Jeremy @ Disturbed Diesel.Removal of the stock downpipe was a little rugged, with my (5) 6-inch extensions put together, a 13mm socket, ratchet, PB Blaster, and JB-80.PBB wouldn't do squat, so I shot it with JB-80 and out the two bolts came. As you can see, the new DP is 3" bell to 4" downpipe, to 5" adapter, then 5" the rest of the way. In the above picture, there's a 40" x 5" piece of tube not shown. This piece would later prove to nee…
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Ok last July my if you remember my tranny went out on my trip to Montana. I remember posting that about an hour before my tranny blew up we were climbing up a pretty steep hill at about 65 mph and I got like a 2 sec squeal and it sounded like it came from the turbo I pulled over and popped the hood and took a look and didn't see anything out of the ordinary and I could not make it do it again. So we just went on. An hour later the tranny blows. I just figured the noise had something to do with the tranny. OK here we are 5 months later. The other day I am driving down the road upshifting to 6th and when I hit 65 mph I get this same squeal again. Its just a short little squ…
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Quick question - for those who followed my mini-saga of my truck not starting this weekend. My common sense tells me it was the extreme cold here in Flagstaff that caused my truck to die on the road requiring a full system bleed to get her going again. But, I keep reading about the 1/4 tank issue and want to rule out the possibility that it died from fuel starvation. When the truck died on Friday morning, it had just over a 1/4 tank according to gauge, and my SGII told me I still had 109 miles left before empty (the SGII has been very accurate, and I have had problems with fuel level gauge past couple weeks). My question is what exactly is the 1/4 tank issue, and in spite…
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I tried to put the truck in 4WD Lo with transmission in neutral. i was able to get out of the snowpile no problem but, when I tried putting it back in 2HI with transmission in neutral I got a grinding noise. I paniced as the transmission wouldn't catch a gear.Finally it caught a gear but, when I read up on the owners manual it says truck needs to be rolling 2-3 mph to engage the 4wd, is that with transmission in gear or neutral coasting?I need to learn how to engage this thing properly.
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I spoke to moparman this evening as I was being tow-strapped back home from Melbourne to Orlando by my friend's Duramax. :duh:I had zero symptoms of any problem before this afternoon. While towing my fifth wheel camper home from a race, on flat, level ground as is usual for Florida, I had an instantaneous loss of power. I shifted into neutral and coasted the rig off to the shoulder, and tried to restart. It cranked endlessly but would not fire. I decided to crack the #1 injector open to see if I was getting any fuel, and saw none. Ditto cylinders 3 and 4.Then I cycled the key and verified that I could hear the lift pump operating, and could. I loosened the pressure regul…
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Had the truck over in St. Louis today. While driving around, I discovered that I was having a problem shifting, especially when stopped. I had to put the truck into neutral to stop, shut off the engine to put it into second, start the engine, then go. Upshifts were not much of a problem. Downshifts were shaky, as sometimes they were ok, other times it would not downshift. I ordered new clutch master and slave cylinders from Autozone. O'Reilly's couldn't get them for 5-7 days. No NAPA here. Autozone had the slave in stock, the master cylinder will be here tomorrow. Any suggestions/recommendations? Thanks.
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Really cold here in Arizona last night - single digits - truck started, let her warm up a few minutes, went on down the road and died - believe it might be gelled fuel and need guidance on best course of action. Any help appreciated. Thanks. --- Update to the previous post... Forgot to mention I had it towed home and is sitting in garage right now.
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ok....I know I'm running a lifted truck with 315 tires and 4:10 gears but doesnt 13mpg still sound really bad? 120 miles of the 200 i just drove was highway at 57 mph. the rest was in city and some extended idling for warm up before driving. also, my exhaust manifold is cracked...but I don't know how much this would affect it. What do ya think?
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I went to the dealer and had them activate high idle but it doesnt work. I used a 56k ohm resistor that Prowelder sent for testing purposes and the water temp was down around 100 degrees. I believe the resistor is doing its job at fooling the truck into thinking that its 32 degrees outside because the grid heater took along time to go out in 60 degree weather. MY ultra-gauge shows me that my tps reads 0.00 for the most part but every now and then it will jump up to 0.39 for a few seconds so im thinking this could be the problem. I have a Timbo apps thats only about a year old and I never really could get all the readings to line up like Tim told me to but he said it reall…
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O.K Guy's...after reading guesswho's thread where he posted an Oil analysis {see below} It got me concerned and i researched the places i have been buying my oil; WalMart & Advance Auto..both carry only DELO 400LE which in the analysis was rated at the bottom The DELO400 MULTIGRADE SAE (API CI-4 Plus) was what was ranked at the top along with Valvoline/Cummins preminum Blue. I have checked on the website's of Advance Auto, SAM'S Club, Autozone,CarQuest,etc.. None of the carry the DELO400 MULTIGRADE SAE (API CI-4 Plus) Has anybody else checked this out???? Richie
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i am going to be replacing my clutch soon. my budget is limited. i found a really good deal on a Valeo flywheel at auto parts wharehouse. $152 and change. does anyone no any thing about either the seller or Valeo?
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So, she's due for an oil change here pretty soon. I would just like to get the community's opinion on which oil, oil filter, and fuel filter I should use. What do other on here prefer or use?She is my baby, I just want her runnin' in tip-top shape. :)Thanks!
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I heard CAT was running this - or someone ....... any good ?? Its pretty cheap right ? Specific one or just the walmart one ?? Also - I wanna stay away from FRAM at walmart - but they do a MOPAR 280 filter or something ..... can that be used ?? Any good ?? Or stay away ......(Can't do oil change at my RV park -> so thinking of just taking to wallyworld ......) :shrug:Seems to be DELO/ROTELLA/QUAKER for around $45 +tax ..... including filter .... (fram/mopar)
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So, i have just installed my new APPS that i received in the mail the other day. Everything checked out fine, truck idles smooth, CEL turned off, and everything except, i cycled the ignition for the heck of it and noticed all 3 codes i had listed before are still there. My questions are...- Am i back to square one?- Do i need to manually reset the codes?- Will these codes reset over time by themselves?Any help is appreciated.Thanks,Dave
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I just adjusted the valves on my new head for the first time and noticed all the rockers hold oil. Before it would about 3-4 rockers would hold oil and the rest would be empty.My thought was they should leak down if they had good flow. But all rockers held oil thru the entire valve adj.These are the original rockers on the same pedalstal's.The only diff. I can think of is all new valve springs, would that cause them to hold oil if the springs where holding more pressure?Hey Mike new pump from chip came in yesterday, took long enough.lol I sure didnt wont to go thru the explanation of the clear line again.lmaoMerry Xmas
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We riding home the other day in 10 degree weather and the fuel pressure gauge decided to put on a show. Running only the pump the pressure will stay at 15psi. If I start the truck the pressure starts out at 15 psi but as the charging systems stops wiggleing the amp gauge and it runs with out cycling the alternator the fuel pressure goes up to 30+and stays there. Performance is good and trust me im glad it went high and not the other way but this is silly.It seemed like maybe something was getting in the line up to the sending unit, ice? So its in a heated shop now and the same condition exists. The wiring is all good and turning the screw into the Holley Regulator s…
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maybe worth a shot..these folks like it!http://www.dieselbombers.com/24-valve-2nd-gen-dodge-cummins-98-5-02/63548-47re-lock-up-fix.html --- Update to the previous post... mopar i know that yours is a manual tranny..what do you think?how about you others?ISX....W&F?
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