2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,279 topics in this forum
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Ok for those following my love of my truck.lmaoOk I put the new used wire harness on today and, nothing, nada, still has erratic miss. Reminder that it runs perfect when eng. is cold, so as the eng. heats up the miss starts.Here is the list of new parts that apply to fuel.New vulcan draw strawNew DDP 50 HP injectorsNew filters Airdog 100 17 psi at idle WOT 15 psi New Blue Chip vp44New over flow valvueBlew out return line from vp back to tankIt will have new crossover tubes in the morning with new o rings, then the inj. lines will be the only thing left stock.When you crack lines you cant tell anythingThis weekend I will pressure up the cylinders and see if I have burnt va…
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I have been involved in electronics as a hobby for over 50 years.I am a Amateur Extra Class Ham Radio Operator. Now that said.I have learned one thing. Heat is the enemy of electronics. No way around it. Especially solid state stuff.I wasn't aware of how much electronics are in the vp44, and I don't know how much are in other injector pumps.Today I drove on a trip that was 35 miles one way, and came back. Ok no big trip. I drove at 52 mph, and tested fuel milage, and fuel pressure to my pump. Milage turned out to be about 25 mpg, and fuel pressure was around 12 psi. for the trip.When I came home I made a routine inspection under the hood, and I reached down and touched th…
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I am wondering what ecm number I will need to get since I have convered my 99 from an auto to manual transmission? I know that it will have to be out of a 99, but I am not sure how many different ones there are for the 99? Also since I will have to get the PCM could I get both from another year? Thanks for any help, Jon.
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This truck has been at a garage for 4 months, its been torn apart, scattered and ignored, you get the idea. The garage said they couldn't get the codes and they didnt know what was wrong with it, I finally got it home and kinda got it togeather. When I took it to the carage it would idle, but not much more, now it wont even start...... Last night I finally got the codes off my truck, there are 12 of them as follows: P0121- tps voltage does not agree with map P0122- throttle pos sens volt low P0243- turbo boost limit exceeded P0236- map sensor too high too long P0351- fuel inj pump fuel valve feedback circ P0252- fuel inj pump fuel valve stuck P0253- fuel inj pump fuel v…
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- 13 replies
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I have a 96-24 valve motor, it has 300,00 miles on it and still runs great....but yesterday she started throwing oil out and over EVERYTHING....The timing cover is "cracked" they say the motor needs to come out to repair it???? $2700.00......don't sound right to me.Have any of you changed or repaired the timing cover on this motor?What could cause this condition?How bad of a job is it to change / repair?Where could I get a replacement cover?Is the timing cover on this motor steel or plasticMany thanks as always for your help. Randy
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Injection Pump Failure. Time to do some work to my truck. I'm just posting up to ask for recomendations in Fuel Pressure Gauges, and Aftermarket Lift Pump improvements. I'm hoping to make the repair in my home garage, so the easier to install options would be a plus. I see many writeups on the job, but any tips would also be welcomed. At this time I am leaning towards an airdog 100 lift pump. Thanks in advance for any information. Dave
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my truck is throwing 4 different codes 1693 1689 0382 0380 and well the vp44 has around 420k miles on it so im thinking that its the pump but i figure i will get some insight first... i was just driving to work like normal and the thing i could feel was losing power and by the time it was ready to get off the hwy turbo was full blast and fuel to the floor and would only do 75 barely and i made it about another 3 miles and it almost shut down and threw those 4 codes and now she is just setting in the driveway....
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My mileage is normally ~16 all around hwy & some city. Yesterday @ 70mph on the interstate the overhead said 16.4. Overhead on my truck is usually close to hand calculated. Regardless. I want more. I have a new SO MWFI VP.Let's start with making sure we're up to spec then mod. What get out of adjustment or wears & reduces mileage? Will start by checking:adjusting valves, cleaning IAT & MAP sensors
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O.K I replaced V.P 2-months ago, after this the engine idled up & down spuraticaly. then i noticed it would try to die sometimes when shifting to drive or reverse.. Yesterday i changed out the VP again & problem is still the same and still there... last nite after idleing for 1/2 hour the RPM'S would roll up 2-300rpm at a time this is worse than before:banghead: Is this ECM??? PLESE HELP!! Richie
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I wasn't sure where to post this but I'll do it here. I had a guy tell me that a turbo charged engine will make more horse power with a muffler than with a straight pipe because a turbo works on back pressure. Is that true? I always thought it was volumn of air flowing thru it so therefore a freer flowing exhaust system would make more power. Can anybody clear this up?
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Just bought my truck in May, 2002 3500 quad cab, it's the first diesel I've owned, so I'm on a definite learning curve here. Truck runs great, starts right up every time, pulls the 27.5 ft 5th wheel no problem. But here lately in the afternoon when I get off work and crank her up to go home, she'll idle out of the parking lot and when I get to the street and hit the throttle...... nothing happens and she just slowly creeps into the roadway. This will last for a couple of minutes and then all the sudden she'll take off and run great all the way home. I read some earlier posts on how to read the codes and so I read them this evening, here is what I got: P0500, P0460, P1693,…
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new to site and diesels. i have a 99 2500 4x4 , ctd with an edge ez. the truck has never died but will not start. lift pump shows 14 lb at hwy speed. chk engine lite came on but goes off every time i re-start it.auto zone check shows no codes. from other fourms it appears i could have a bad crank shaft pos. sensor. i have bleed the fuel lines and get plenty of flow but i do not know at what pressure. any help or suggestions would be appreciatted. thanks in advance
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Hey guysok - here is my tranny cooler setup. Brief as possible with pics. Thanks to jim (SASQUACH).Built frame with screws/bolts and square metal tubing lowes.Purchased metal mesh from lowes also and cut to match inside of frame. Allow air in - no rocks.Drilled Angle Iron into frame with tapping screws.Used threaded metal with lock nuts in cross member so I could adjust and lock height of frame (and for removal if I need later).Attached Cooler Frame to Angle iron bolted on truck frame and threaded metal on crossmember skid plate.Cut COLD (INLET) lnlet line at front of truck directly out of OE cooler.Ran 1/2" tranny rubber hose to cooler now bolted in frame behind transfer…
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A few weeks ago, actually the day after that I had my flash done for high idle , I was going to town and experienced dead pedal for about 10 seconds and it threw a P0237 MAP Sensor Voltage Too Low code and tripped the engine light. This morning on my way to town I once again got hit twice with it lasting about the same amount of time, maybe a bit longer the second time. All three times were into a hill and I want to note that all times this happened was on a relatively cold engine.This morning it never tripped the engine light and I checked and I have no codes at all. First time I thought maybe it was map sensor just from where I had unhooked my programmer for getttin…
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ok - don't laugh How do you tell a battery really requires changing and won't hold a charge anymore. To be honest - I don't know Along with my stalling issue - my starting seems to be harder - and it seems like a battery. I added 2 stroke (for general reasons) and drove for like 20 miles to let the alternator charge her up. Got back ..... and turned engine off with lights still on. Saw the voltage needle drop pretty quick from 14V to around 10V. The battery says 10/07 .......... no other indicators If I need a battery - how to tell if 1 or 2 ? - and any recommendations on where what to buy ? --- Update to the previous post... Foun…
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Anybody know how many hours are charged for compression test. I am thinking if it to high might buy my own gauge and do it my self, course I have no idea what one even looks like.
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On my 2002 dodge diesel while swapping out my power steering fluid to synthetic today I noticed that 4 of the 7 blades on my fan clutch were cracked. Then while checking that out I noticed that the whole unit has some wobble to it where the belt goes around it. The clutch part has resistance when turning the fan either way so I'm thinking that may not be bad, but the rest of it has me concerned. So I'm wondering do you just replace the blades and I'm guessing a bearing on the pulley part that the belt goes around or do you buy the whole thing as a complete unit. Thanks Dwayne
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Hey all, I have a 2000 CTD 2WD.I returned from a canoeing trip yesterday with no issues thru the trip at all, turned around in my drive and tried to back up to the garage and the truck wouldn't back up....The trans was like stuck in drive. I put it in Neutral and it still crept forward. Put it in reverse and it backed up like the brakes were on.... any ideas?How do I know if the trans is a 46RH or a 47RH.Could it be possible for the TC lockup to be stuck on? just an idea.I drained the pan and pulled it, initial inspection shows no visible issues, some debris on the magnet, no shavings ectThe VIN # is IB7KC2363YJI78907 If that helps to I D the trans
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Look at this crap. No wonder the VP melts down. Diesel has no heat transfer at all. Maybe with some extreme temperature differences it would take some of the heat, but if it hardly changes at 1/16" over an ice cube then really, it is completely worthless. It wouldn't even melt the ice, the water on the bottom was because the diesel wouldn't transfer any heat into the ice. I know it works on the engine like the bottom of the pistons but there is a big temperature difference. I don't think the VP is getting to 1000F so I doubt the diesel is going to be taking much heat away from it.
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ok - don't think I have seen this one before that I remember. Got my truck back few weeks back with new RV275's and some valve/head work.All good except when I start off in morning it stalls the engine. Basically I start 1st time everytime with 16-17psi. Then I sit for 30 secs @800 rpm and as soon as I engaged 'D' or 'R' (depending on how parked) ... the rpms drop around 400 and the engine stalls. Once the enine is warmed up and running ...... all ok .......... any ideas ???
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