2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I popped my hood recently and found the vacuum line that runs from the firewall to the vacuum pump just laying there...still attached only to the firewall fitting that I previously replaced. On closer inspection of the vacuum pump side where it is supposed to be connected I found that the rubber 90° elbow that receives it has now degraded to the point of failure. I've been looking online for a replacement rubber elbow but can't find anything specific to my truck...only come across HELP kits with several generics and ones that specifically fit Volvos and Mercedes. They all look like they might work OK but can't be sure. I'd really rather have the exact repl…

Hi All, My exhaust brake has been loosing it's verve so I took the truck to Banks Engineering, well, because they are not too far from here and thought it would be fun to visit the mother ship. It was very fun!!! They gave me a tour of the campus, except the military work section, because then they would have to kill me. They are super nice and it's very impressive operation. But I digress. So they told me the diaphragm is good on the exhaust brake can, that was my theory, and the Banks system tested out from the manufacturer. They didn't even charge me for that inspection. Super nice people! What they told me is my vacuum pump is not …

Alright, need some help here before I take a sledgehammer to it. A few months ago I had to replace my power steering pump. I figured since I was going to pull the vacuum pump anyway, I might as well be on the safe side and clean, inspect, and replace the o-rings even though it wasn't leaking. I've now put three sets of o-rings on this pump and I'll be @#$%ed if it isn't leaking again. I make my living as a mechanic but I may need to think about a career change. The first two sets of o-rings were from Gould. A buddy had bought it but ended up selling the truck so he gave it me. I followed the instructions exactly and torqued everything to spec. First time, leaked between t…

I have now replaced the seals in my vacuum pump twice and its still leaking. I got the kit from Gould Gear. The coupler drive gear has been replaced on the vacuum pump side and I bought a rebuilt PS pump which also has a new coupler drive. In theory that means there's a new surface for the seal to mount against. It shouldn't be leaking. I'm pissed and its driving me crazy. Any suggestions?

Hi guys Thanks for all the responses on my last post. It’s nice to find a page that has knowledge as well as courtesy. So I pulled my VP44 and found a broken rear bracket. Looks like I need to remove and replace/weld. My question is can I remove the vacuum pump with the injection pump removed or will the pump gear fall down. Looks like both run off the crank from what I can see. Also looks like a good time to rebuild that oily mess. Thanks and Merry Christmas Bill

OMG... All the horror stories of how hard it is and troublesome it is to rebuild your vacuum pump. I did mine from start to finish in 2 hours taking my time. No more oil leak from there now. But now I got to get a front crank seal and replace it. I left the power steering pump attached and just yanked the vacuum pump. Man this is such a easy job to do... I'm going to make a write up...

So Ive had the Gould pump reseal kit for awhile and decided since I got all this downtime I would go and rebuild it this morning. Everything was goin great until I started to drive the seal retainer out of the housing. I cannot get the damn thing to budge. Using a big dead blow and the provided driver tool, even used a 2x4 and a 3lb sledge and that sucker wont budge. Anyone had this issue or any tips/tricks?

We all know what our engine's blow-by looks like when it's warm/up to temp... minature vapor cloud/stream depending on the severity...How about when my son was cranking for about 10 seconds and I was bleeding off the HP lines? Just clear air.Same when allowed to start the other day.... about a minutes worth... just clean clear air. I had to check twice with my thumb to confirm there was air movement.... I could stop the air easy coming out the pipe, and in about 5 seconds, I could finally feel a little pressure under my thumb. There was a slight 'poof' when I let go but no steam or vapor.Safe to assume this is vacuum…

Got a goulds kit and going to tackle the pump seal issue. Got the video and i know how to do it. The problem is none of the videos or anything tell me the best way to actually remove the pump and PS unit from the truck. I know to do it as one unit, but you guys that have done it, which way did you go? Out the bottom or top?

The vacuum pump is so hard to RxR I feel a need to inform all of a glitch I found in the Cummins Forum pictorial and instructions. The seal directions and picture of the seal coming out are WRONG! They show and explain that the dust seal side of the seal faces the vac pump. The cummins instructions say that the spring side of the seal should face the vac pump. The spring side of the seal always faces the area to be sealed.

I have been having some issues on with hard steering at idle, along with intermittent 4wd, and slow, or non responsive heater controls... I have been trying to track down vacuum leaks, but havent come up with anything, but a very tiny line with a break near the passenger side firewall... I am wondering if the pump may be bad? I did find a receipt in the truck for a new PS pump installed in 2015, and I know the guy only put about 2000 miles on the truck in all that time... could one have something to do with the other? are they a single unit? Thanks for the info, and help guys!

I have been having some issues on with hard steering at idle, along with intermittent 4wd, and slow, or non responsive heater controls... I have been trying to track down vacuum leaks, but havent come up with anything, but a very tiny line with a break near the passenger side firewall... I am wondering if the pump may be bad? I did find a receipt in the truck for a new PS pump installed in 2015, and I know the guy only put about 2000 miles on the truck in all that time... could one have something to do with the other? are they a single unit? Thanks for the info, and help guys!

Hi, very specific vacuum pump question, have not been able to find the answer here or any other site / google. I've read a lot about failing vacuum pumps and re-sealing them, but what I need to know is this.. I do not have the vacuum brake booster, only thing my system feeds is cruise and hvac. After my supply line fell off the pump the other day (rotted hose) I hooked it back up. I decided to replace some of the hoses and noticed there's a check valve right before the input to the hard line on the firewall... was not working as expected so replaced. I also grabbed a vacuum gauge and tested. Several sources say the system should hold a …

I'm going to sell my truck I just want to get opinions on what it's worth don't want to sell I love it but I need down payment for bigger truck I use it as a hot shot not a rich boy toy so it's mildly tuned for towing and mpg all parts are good parts no value craft or Chinese parts Delco Moog etc or better 2000 ram 3500 dually quad cab 550k mostly hey 2x4 gooseneck hitch remote air bags truck is not perfect but in my opinion it is pretty clean one spot on door and some scratches Now the list In the past year.......... Auto to nv5600 swap everything in tranny new except input and output shaft Dual stage clutch less…

It is suggested to be done at 135K miles which I think is too far down the road. Mine where out of adjustment a bit at 92K miles. So this is how I did my valve adjustment on my truck. Valve adjustment is fairly simple to do and does require much for tools. You need a feeler gauge set (0.010 and 0.020), 9/16" box wrench, 10mm short socket, 15/16" socket, both 3/8" and 1/2" ratchets, Allen wrench and a mirror. The first thing you need to do is pull the valve cover off the engine. You'll need a 10mm short socket and a 3/8" ratchet. Loosen all the bolt till you can lift the bolt up. Don't bother removing the bolts from the valve cover. Once you got that the valve c…

I'm wanting to adjust my valves tomorrow and tried finding the procedure here. All I'm finding is for 12 valve engines. Is it the same for the 24? If there's an article on it I guess I missed it...

tried to adjust my valves today and could not turn the engine using the altenator bolt. i turned it both ways and it slipped either way. i clouldnt figure out a way to put more tension on it with the tools at hand and dont own a barring tool. any of yall ever done it a differant way?

I am going to adjust valves on my '02 and so far have the valve cover off, so far so good. Now I see that I need to move the engine to TDC which is noted on the pump gear housing. HELP...is this pump gear (with the indicator line) under the Crankcase Breather??? I have the hose off and can't seem to get the Crankcase Breather off if that's where the gear is located.Great pictures and help on the link here for adjusting valves but the part about the gear with the TDC mark was not shown. I have the Dodge Shop Manual on CD and it shows the breather as coming off....how do I get it off and if I do get it off, how do I get it back on securely? I hate to start prying on st…

Somehow I managed to break the black plastic bit that the clips on the connector engage to hold in place, and so my transmission is hanging on by nothing more than simple friction. I know I, going to have to drop the valve body to replace it, my question is this: where the heck do I get the connector?

I remember someone here who had one of these and some seemed interested in them. Then I stumbled on the this today if anyone is interested. https://www.hoeslidiesel.com/collections/1998-5-2002-cummins-24-valve/products/cast-aluminum-valve-cover