2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey all, I bought a 98.5 2500 ram about 6 months ago and have been slowly working through getting everything road worthy again. I noticed that I can’t shift much at all past drive on the column, so I did my research and found the adjustment screw and rod, and attempted to adjust that, but soon realized the reason it won’t shift past drive is because the chunk that attaches to the rod is hitting the bell housing of the trans. I’m kind of stumped as to what would cause this and more importantly how to go about adjusting it back slightly. I’ve attached some pictures below to sort of help describe what’s going on. Any help would be extremely appreciated

I have an xzillarator model DXZ01s that has had the map sensors cut off and im trying to figure out how to wire the new plugs i ordered for it. The harness has 2 wires coming out of it and im trying to find out how to wire the male and female map sensor plug. I bought an ls tps extension plug and it has the male and female plugs that i need wired to each other so ill cut that in half and have three wires coming out of each plug i know one wire is a jumper but i need to figure out which one will be the jumper and then what to do with the rest of the 4 wires

This sticky is to contain data logs of various tuners, runs, etc. Stock Data logs stock.csv Smarty S03 Data Logs revocompare.xlsx catcher7.csv catcher5.csv catcher3.csv catcher 9.csv 3revoTMdt3d5.csv 3revoTMdT2D3.csv sw7t3d2.csv sw5TM1D1T3.csv revsw3TMdD2T3same.csv revosw3tmdt3d5same.csv Sw1 No Revo sw1.csv Sw3 No Revo sw3.csv sw31.csv Sw5 No Revo sw5.csv sw51.csv Sw7 No Revo sw7.csv sw71.csv sw72.csv Sw9 No Revo sw9.csv sw91.…

I was towing a trailer last night and noticed that my brake lights were not working. I've dug into it a little bit. Ive tested all the fuses and they're good. I've done continuity test on the brake switch and it is good. i have turn signals and 4 way flashers, but i don't have any brake lights. Any ideas?

Hey there, im in desperate need of figuring out ecm/pcm problems. I own 2000 automatic 4wd truck, a mechanic said the original ecm was bad so he sourced an ecm p/n 3947912(2002?) truck would start and run but rpm would cut out after 5 seconds of run time.(im aware newer years didn’t have a crank sensor). Fast forward i bought a 2000 donor truck with a manual transmission , I removed the ecm/pcm and all wiring harnesses under the hood and swapped them to my truck(one thing i noticed on the donor truck was it has a crank sensor by the starter but nothing was plugged into it and there was no pigtail in the harness) so i swapped all mentioned above into my truck and I’m still…

INSTALLING PROTECTIVE LIFT PUMP RELAY The life pump is powered through the ECM via pin #15 and #35. Every time the lift pump is energized the power drawn through the ECM causes heat. After a few thousands cycles of start/stops this heating up and cooling down cause’s degradation in the solder joints and failure. Another possible cause of ECM failure is higher than normal amperage load by either a larger capacity lift pump or a failing pump. As a lift pump starts to go bad (wear internally) the AMP load is increased to overcome the resistance. This added power draw can cause the ECM circuit board to overheat and solder joints to open. The lift pump power routed…

This will show the progress in installing the Holset he351ve into my 2nd gen Cummins Second Gen Cummins should be considered 94-02 but there may be some difference depending on year. I will update as I go along. This is not dealing with the controller needed for the he351ve. The thread that covers the controller can be found here The Holset He351 ve vgt turbo was found on the Cummins 6.7 L trucks on late 3rd and 4th gen dodge trucks. It is a very tough turbo and was selected for use due to the ability to improve low throttle boost and the built in Exhaust brake. It should be good for near enough to 500 hp not to matter. Parts …

Swapping between 98.5-00 & 01-02 Dodge Cummins ISB 24v VP44 Engines Many people need to change their engine out due to “53” blocks, catastrophic failures or just plain wear & tear. Most do not know about the differences between the two “Sub generations” as I will call them. I will try to explain it all in this article. I will also give known ways to accomplish the swap & why. I will also give an alternative way that I presume will work, but cannot guarantee.Firstly, for some basics. If at all possible, get a replacement engine of the same sub generation if at all possible to make your life easier. Second, if you must use an engine from a different sub g…

Recently I've been getting after some much needed maintenance on my 24v. So while I replace my tappet cover gasket and vacuum pump seals I'd like to throw in some valve springs, valve seals, head studs, and any other seals/components I can get to at the same time. I know the valve guides are known to wear on 24v's so I'll make sure to take a peek at those too. I just rolled over 200k. So my questions are: What seals should I use for the valve stems? I hear something about CR seals being used as an upgrade? What other components/seals should I be replacing/inspecting at the same time?

Looking for some help with diagnosing why the tach and oil pressure gauge aren’t getting signal. Gauges have been tested and work fine. I’ve installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge and it shows good pressure. I have RPM’s within range. Was a good running & driving pickup but had a cracked 53 block. I had a mechanic build me a new engine. He used a 2004 5.9 common rail block with my original VP head. Long story short he went out of business and I ended up getting the truck back unfinished. I installed the factory cam and cam gear and gear case and mounted the factory reluctor ring in front of the balancer. Multiple ecm’s and pcm’s later I finally have the engine star…

How to remove the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump the quick and easy way. Takes approximately 45 minutes for me to remove the VP44 Injection pump. Remove the Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent (if applicable) Using a 10mm socket remove the four air horn bolts and one dipstick bolt. Using a 7/16 or 11mm socket loosen the top clamp of the intake boot. Move the grid heater and intake horn out of your way. Pack a shop rag in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in the intake manifold. Using a 13mm socket loosen the 3 bolts holding the APPS sensor and unplug and move over toward the dr…

I'm going to refer to my VP44 post for the first part here. So you should be to this point if you have done all the work on the link above. So we'll continue to remove the tappet cover and replace the tappet cover gasket on the driver side of the engine. On my truck, the leak is very minor but I want to get this resolved before it gets worse. Being I'm already replacing a VP44 it just a good time to do the tappet cover gasket and fix that oil leak. You need to remove the two 15mm bolts for the rear hoist ring. This is so you can gain access to the #6 injection line nut at the rear of the head. Now you need to remove the two…

Needing help with a sporadic p 1689 code. It's the only code I get and it only when I have been driving for a good bit. (Daily 20min drive to work won't trigger it) vp44 is new ish. (2 years may maybe 50k miles) was from DAP and was one with a supposedly rebuilt pump "brain" I have gone through the really helpful guide on this website. Everything tested good except the step on the ECU. Im shure it could be the ECU but want to rule everything else out. Fuel pressure looked good on the quadzilla ecu voltage looked good tps was steady. Truck drives fine but will suddenly go through a fit* and cut in and out then be done and drive fine. It has recently started to rev on st…

Replacing Diodes and Brushes in a Denso Alternator Replacing Replacing Diodes and Brushes in a Denso Alternator Remove 1the 0mm nut at the B+ post, the three 8mm nuts and the 8mm head screw. You can use a small screwdriver and gently pry and lift the cove off. The diodes and brushes are now exposed. Remove the dust cover and four screws that hold in the brush pack assembly, lift assembly out. Remove the four Philip head screws that hold the diode/rectifier bridge in, lift diode/rectifier bridge out. Remove the one screw holding the brush pack to the brush pack assembly. …

Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Signs / Symtoms Just noticed today that the oil pressure is way high while driving and not really moving even upon reaching operating coolant temperature. Driving oil pressure at low throttle is 60-70 PSI at full temperature and idling is right around 60 PSI. Here's the oil pressure gauge, full operating temperature while idling... Even before starting, the oil pressure gauge shows 40 PSI, then after start up right to the 60-70 mark and doesn't move much. I'm hoping this is just the sending unit and not a bearing or electrical problem. Just got some codes on the dash... p0523 p0522 Replacing The Oil Pressure Sensor …

Mechanical High Idle for All Cummins Trucks Here is another version of high idle you can produce for you dodge Cummins. A member over at Cummins Forum came to me with his version of high idle. Thank you WJBell for your information and allowing me to post here on my site... WJBell's High Idle Write Up Original Information is here. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/111278-mechanical-high-idle-bomb-completed.html Since seeing Mopar Mans high idle I've been wanting to do something like it. I live in California so I really don't need it but for cold morning warms up's it's kind of nice. And if I idle it for a long time I've heard you can …

MAP (Manifold Atmosphere Pressure) Sensor The MAP sensor is installed into the rear of the intake manifold. The MAP sensor reacts to air pressure changes in the intake manifold. It provides an input voltage to the Engine Control Module (ECM). As pressure changes, MAP sensor voltage will change. The change in MAP sensor voltage results in a different input voltage to the ECM. The ECM uses this input, along with inputs from other sensors to provide fuel timing, fuel control and engine protection. Engine protection is used to derate (drop power off) the engine if turbocharger pressure becomes to high. Mopar's Notes: This cleaning procedure will not correct any error…

Starter Contacts Disconnect and isolate negative cables of both batteries. Raise and support vehicle. Pull back protective rubber boot from solenoid battery terminal far enough to access and remove nut securing battery positive cable wire harness connector eyelet to solenoid battery terminal stud (Fig. 10). Remove nut securing battery positive cable wire harness solenoid connector eyelet to solenoid terminal stud.(17mm) Remove battery positive cable wire harness connector eyelets from solenoid terminal studs. While supporting starter motor, remove three bolts securing starter motor to flywheel housing(8 or 10mm 12 point bolts, use box …

AirDog 100/150 Filters Numbers AirDog 100 & AirDog 150 Part Number FF100-10 (10 Micron) Fleetguard FF5617 FF100-5 (5 Micron) Fleetguard FF5587 FF100-3 (3 Micron) Fleetguard FF5613 2 micron fuel filter NAPA 3626 WS80 (Water Separator) Fleetguard FS19768 WS100 (Water Separator) Luber-Finer LFF9594 SuperDog Filter Numbers SuperDog 200 Part Number FF200-10 (10 Micron) Fleetguard FS1054 …

So, a little back story first. About 2 weeks ago the wife and I went to the store. After finishing shopping, walking to the truck I noticed something under the truck. It was the fuel tank. Luckily not fully on the ground. The rear tank strap broke. I knew it was rusted but didn't know I was that close to a big problem. I grabbed a couple rachet straps from the tool box and strapped it up just to get home. One home I reattached the filler neck and vent hoses and proceeded to strap it up with a 2 inch strap to hold it in place while waiting on parts. I have to give a shout out to @Genos Garage! They had the straps I needed in stainless! I replaced them both tod…