2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey folks, I'll be going thru some of the various wiring problems im having with my '00 2500 cummins here this weekend, and I want to get a head start on diagnosis / get my mind right on it. First problem, I've got the p0113 code and replaced my iat sensor which unfortunately did not solve the problem. on my scan tool, the temperature reads -40 degrees. I have NO KNOWN symtoms, even though I do have the code. This points to it being a problem in the wiring and not with the actual temps. There's an aftermarket (afe) air intake on the truck that the previous owner installed Second problem, my engine coolant temp sensor is not reading, pi…

Hi, I bought this truck about 3 months ago. It came with no keys (no its not stolen, guess buddy lost them) so he put in a master switch and a push button. Master switch turns truck on, push button starts the truck. A few weeks back I took out my remote start because it was in my way and I didn't have the use for It with the lack of keys anyway. Nothing changed with the truck I still used the switch and button just fine. 3 days ago, I was frustrated with the wires from the remote start hanging out so when I got home I took only the wires that were connected to nothing out. Now my truck won't turn over and I've pulled out the wiring harness on the …

Just dreading what I have in my future. I don't remember having all this mess of wire everywhere in my previous truck. Ugh... Battery terminals have screws jammed in them on the passenger side to keep everything snug. Driver side positive post must have 5 additional lugs hooked to it.

I know I have read this before but here goes anyway. My old motor ran around 40 plus on the oil pressure, new motor runs on the edge of the next mark up. A big diff. from before, and I know it could be the sending unit which I can swap out sence I have a new one on my old motor. What would the next mark up be? And where does your gauge run?

Any opinions on the WIX Oil Filter? I saw the WIX 51607 listed on Rock Auto for $6.71 each in a case of 12. The Fleetguards are getting crazy $ even if I buy them by the half-dozen, but still worth it I figure. They also have FRAM's but I don't think I'll put any orange filters on MY truck.I know I've seen a chart showing which filters other than the Fleetguard to use but can't find it now...

The other day i got back home from a 2 hour drive and as I was pulling into my place the engine just shuttered and died. Luckily I was able to start it back up and park it. I went out the next day to see if it was still acting funny and it wouldn't start. The lift pump wouldn't work all of the time and I had a carter unit on it. So i ran a relay, ordered an airdog frrp100. I have not gotten any codes off of my smarty, 15 psi to my vp44 and a fresh fuel filter. I have no air going to the v44, I installed clear hose to verify this. I have cracked 1,3,4 injectors a million times. Usually I can get it to run for 2-3 minutes one time and then it won't run after that.…

Just yesterday my truck stopped shifting out of first gear. It hold first as long as I'm accelerating but when I let off a little bit it sometimes shifts into second and then from there it's fine but when I come to a complete stop again same thing all over again. I'm new to this forum so I will fill out my sig right now.

20 amp fuse is blown. replaced starter twice and replaced starter relay help.

I have an 01 Ram 2500 5.9 that the clutch was just replaced after sitting a few months, picked it up and drove 30 plus miles no problem, next day drove 20 miles and it just quit, no sputtering or anything, just shut down. Had it towed and have checked and replaced fuel filter, bleed system, getting fuel to injectors 134. Codes, (key method)P1693 and P0122. Have electronic apps, have reset, but that should not keep from starting. Cranks strong, just will not start. maybe, fuse/relay or wire loose? any suggestions. Thanks

I have a 1998 Dodge Ram 24V Cummins 3500 2WD Dually. Yesterday I moved the little selector on my fuel filter housing and pushed it down releasing a little diesel. I stopped after about 5 seconds. I did that with the truck off. After about 2 hours I went to leave and the truck turned over, fired and then stalled. Since then it won't crank. I have watched some YouTube videos about priming it, some people saying I let air in the system other saying my VP is toast and honestly I am new to Dodge Cummins so I am not familiar with what to do. This is what I've done so far: 1. Turned the truck over about 45-50 times, it won't fire. I killed both batteries…

got up to almost 30 this morning, so I thought it would start easy for me... ran the pre heat, bumped the starter to start the lift pump, then ran the pre heat again. It did fire a little, but then nothing. Rob said I didn't have any vapor during the crank. We pulled it about a half mile trying to start, and it did run momentarily. Then finally nothing. Just happened to have my reader on board, and I got a p1693 I knew that was a companion deal, and digging a little deeper on my code reader it had a timing issue in the vp. about this time I noticed my fuel lift pump no longer run…

1999 Cummins 24 valve , quadzilla , 100hp injectors, nv4500, air dog 150 when I try to start my truck with key half the time it will fire right up other half it will turn over for ever and won’t go . dont believe it’s a prime problem as I checked for leaks and made sure everything was tight , you can turn truck off for half a second and try to start , just turns over but if I roll start it , it fires right up no problem ??????? cleaned all batt cable ends ,and grounds help please it’s geting annoying

Just need a little help. Have an 02 Ram 3500 wont crank until it is placed on a battery charger with a start circuit or left on charge over night. I have replaced the batteries twice, left and right battery cables have been replaced, starter has been replaced, checked fuses and the relay they're all good, cleaned all ground connections put dielectric grease on them. At a serious loss on this. Starts fine if its been sitting on the charger overnight. Some days doesn't need the charger some it does. Have put a meter on the starter and when when the key is turned over there is no draw at the starter or batteries. batteries are both 12.7, 12.8. Any help would be appreciated.

ok everyone im new here, but ive done alot of reading and can't find anything to help. I have a 2001 2500 24v 4x4 5speed swapped. The truck has the auto pcm but manual tranny harnes. as far as upgrades i have 40 over sticks, s&b cold intake, airdog, and a V2. an tips or sugestion as to why i cant over 2000 rpms?!?!?!?!?!?! thanks in advance for the help!!

Hey fellas back again with a question for yas seems how this seems to be the only place to get any 24v info but The issue that I am having is this weekend at the dunes i was driving around and had bad terminals truck wouldnt start monkeyed with them long story short forgot to tighten nut that i had 12v power going to quadzilla. drove fine and then i shut it off... when i tried to start truck first thing the key was backwards all lights on dash lit when key was off and got a constant noise from fuel system relay when turned on nothing i unpluged tuner from fuse block in cab(engine fuse 9) and just plugged normal fuse in and all was normal just wouldnt roll over after plugg…

Ok so Hello everyone.....Yes I am a Newbie. I just bought a 2002 one ton Dodge ram from my company. It has 240k miles on it. Tranny needs some work one of the guys popped a cooler line and drove her dry. I fixed the line and filled her back up and she still rolls down the road just not as strong as she should be. My problem is I know the tank is dirty so the filters get plugged pretty quick which is why she will start to kind of cut out every so often, I try to keep the water drained, but the other day I was rolling home from NC and she chugged a couple of times then she just quit on me. Now this has happened before while the company owned it and I know it was a quick fix…

can i straight wire my fuel pump and vp44 to a ignition on circuit and bypass all the electronic crap so i dont get stranded any more?

I installed gauges into my 2001 Auto. I had fuel pressure and pyro before. I added boost. Checked all the gauges for light up prior to fully mounting the pod. They all worked. Installed the pod and hooked up all the gauges. No lights for gauges and no illumination lights in dash. Parking lights also wont turn on with headlight switch. Turn signals, head lights, dome lights, blower motor, and radio all work. I went to start the truck, it fired then died. I have good fuel pressure to VP. I checked for codes and none. I checked fuses and all looked good. Batteries were a little low due to cold weather so they are on charger. I will crack lines at injectors next to see if get…

Hi guys, I'm experiencing a woo-woo-woo noise. It seems it's coming only while the engine is under load, or it gets louder, with the more load. So..if I'm driving on the highway, and I go up a hill, it gets louder when the engine works harder. If I let off, it goes away instantly. It sounds like something is off balance to me, I'm just not sure what could be making the noise, only while the engine is under load. I pulled the front drive shaft. The wheel balancing weights are still on tires. Tires, brakes, rotors, hubs new in the last 15k or less..and this is a new development. Any ideas to look at? Here's a video..you can hear it pretty clear at …

Recently I purchased a mopar1973man High idle kit for my truck. I must say I'm pretty pleased with the design and all! Id like to say thank you to @Mopar1973Man and @Me78569 for their time and investment to produce the switches. I do have a couple questions... 1. Apparently there is a delay from when you switch to high idle till the time it actually starts to high idle? 2. When switching from Off position to MPG position my truck engine skipped a beat and did a pretty good miss. Is this normal? Heres a few side notes. The only good place I could find to route the harness thru the firewall was thru the hole that the hood latch cable goes thru. But the switch would not f…