2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,288 topics in this forum
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So I am new to the site, read quite a bit about similar issues and tried a lot of others suggestions, here's my particular problem, please help!!! Been at this over a year... It started with the lift pump failing, not a big deal, 300,000+ miles... so I put a fass 160gph titanium edition lift pump in, started and ran better than it ever had, too good to be true, drove up the street and back, bout 2 miles or so, and it died pulling in the driveway, Cracked the injector line and had a very weak flow... Now please make note when the original vp died, it didn't throw any codes, just mechanically died, went through thoroughbred diesel and got the one tha…
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Hi all, I'm having a slight(hopefully) issue with my 01 2500. Since I bought the truck at 248,000 it's always been a little tricky to get into first and reverse. If you put it in first before going to reverse its easy but first can be a little tricky. Anyway I just hit 254,000 and second gear is getting a little hard to get into when I stop at a light/stop sign. However it's only hard if I let the clutch out then put it back in. For example I stop at a light, take out of gear and let clutch out. Then put clutch in and try to put it in second and sometimes it's really hard till I play with it a bit. Usually I can get it but it seems like it's getting worse quickly. If I…
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Torque Converter Issues and Alternator Noise Testing Before Testing - IMPORTANT PLEASE DO NOT SKIP! Before doing any testing of the alternator for AC noise, make sure to remove any and all wiring modifications. Return the electrical system back to stock. Make sure there is no extra grounds, relocation of ground wires or noise filters installed before testing the alternator. It has been brought to my attention that wiring mods can and will provide false passing grades for the alternator. The entire electrical system should be left stock and unmodified so you (the owner) are alerted sooner to impending alternator failure. Stock system will show AC noise issues much …
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My OEM alternator in my 2002 Cummins Auto was producing high AC voltage occasionally during very hot days and was causing my transmission to shift improperly (see Torque Converter Lock Unlock Issues). Many of us have had this problem and have tried many different remanufactured alternators to varying degrees of success. As noted in the torque converter article, AC noise is going to come from the diodes in the rectifier failing or failed solder joints in the alternator. Heat and load is generally the cause of electrical component failure. The heat can kill the diodes themselves and also damage the solder joints on the circuit boards. Heat can come from high powe…
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I have a '02 SLT Laramie Ram 3500 dually with 5.9L 24V tubo engine and an odd voltage reading problem. When I start the engine the volt meter rises slowly to a little over 14 volts & then slowly falls back down to 11 - 12 volts before rising again to 14 volts. If I have the headlights on, they dim as the volts fall & brighten up as the volt reading rises. It does this several times and usually stabilizes when the engine reaches operating temps. Is this something I should be concerned about or is this normal? What could cause this?
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The high idle kits are going to handed back to me for production. All future production of the Mopar1973Man.Com High Idle Kits will be produced right here in Idaho. As soon as I get all the parts and pieces from Ed Grafton (Yankneck696) I'll start producing them. So I know some of you are hoping for more to be produced and seeing DAP running out of the flat mount version. So hang in there more to come very very soon.
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Does anyone have the bolt specs for the 3 starter bolts on a 2004 Ram 2500 5.9l 24v I have found the part number (04429834) but I need size, thread, pitch and grade to find a quick match at fastener store, thank you !
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So driving home, I was in 4wd from our recent snowfall. Half way home suddenly I start hearing a chirp noise. It's oscillating as well. It Will make the noise going down hill but mostly When under load. If I take it out of 4wd, it Will fade away... What is it? Can I still use my 4wd?
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Ok I just bought a 99 dodge 3500 24v Cummins with 222,000 miles I have searched but cant find nothing with same symptoms like mine exact. When you barely touch pedal it revs really high when in park. When you try to drive it it takes off really good then dead pedal then picks back up after it falls to around 12-1500 rpms and goes again it will not stay at a constant speed. Try and it cuts out till rpms fall them picks back up again. It appears the pump is not the original, and the guy I bought it from had it at a shop trying to get it fixed and they said they tried a different apps. But I dont think they know much about these trucks. Any ideas? Also I have a proble…
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I have always seen this little light on the knee panel but it havr never been on so never really looked into it. After I changed my batteries on Saturday that light is always flashing when the truck is off.i kinda looked in to it today and that light runs to a keyless entry box under the steering wheel. Did these trucks come with keyless entry? If they did how do I shut that light off. On a plus side the doors don't lock on startup anymore also I did pull the box down if doesn't have any name on it.
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Ok guys I've posted on Cummins forum but not much help. My vp went bad about 10 months ago I replaced it truck ran good. 2 moths later dead pedal started I bumped my fuel pressure up on airdog165 local shop had it way low. Truck ran good for 6 months. Dead pedal came back also had a low voltage to apps code changed apps with a timbo and adjusted it per instructions. No more codexpensive but I still have the dead pedal. Spoke with local shop and changed ecm. Still have the dead pedal!! For giggles I changed my fairly new filters and added 2 grounds along with changing terminals made it 2 and 1/2 months and dead pedal is back. Spoke with a few people including calling bl…
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To start off I replaced my clutch to a South bend 13" organic single about 4 weeks ago. Although i do not think this is related to my problems it was the start of everything. After clutch was replaced i had an antifreeze leak the day after with i found to be the water pump, fixed that issue with a new pump. Antifreeze was draining onto the belt which spread it over the engine bay (yippy...) Then came the dead pedal, 3 years ago i had replaced apps wit Timbo apps, so i email him and he sent me a new one and it solved the problem for 20 miles. then back to interment dead pedal. I have had one drive home where everything ran great and had not one problem (check eng…
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Ok, finally got my truck back from the shop after my leaking fuel return line was replaced. Today I was out doing some errands and I noticed occasionally when I put it in drive it would hesitate to engage and just Rev up. I would have to either wait or try shifting to park and back and finally it would go into gear. Then it upgraded it's ability to make me want to drive it into the nearest tree by acting like it would lose all power at the trans like it had no go at all. Then out of the blue it would start acting like it should again. I don't think the clutches are bad cause when it works it works, but for the life of me I'm just scratching my head again. …
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Flushing the Coolant System Draining Coolant On a cool engine (less than 140*F) remove the radiator cap. Now at the bottom of the radiator, there is a drain valve on the radiator. The drain turns 1/2 turn then pulls outward slightly then continues to turn to drain. To drain the overflow bottom it just easier to remove the hose from the radiator neck and then pull the overflow bottle upwards from the fan shroud. Flushing Cooling System Flushing the cooling system you'll need to remove the thermostat. There are three 8mm head bolts holding the cover in place. Once the cover is removed you can lift the thermostat out. Now replace the thermostat cover and the…
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CCD (Chrysler Collision Detection) Data Bus Description The Chrysler Collision Detection (also referred to as CCD or C2D ) data bus system is a multiplex system used for vehicle communications on many Chrysler Corporation vehicles. Within the context of the CCD system, the term “collision“ refers to the system’s ability to avoid collisions of the electronic data that enters the data bus from various electronic control modules at approximately the same time. Multiplexing is a system that enables the transmission of several messages over a single channel or circuit. Many Chrysler vehicles use this principle for communication between the various microprocessor based …
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hello everyone this is my first post lots of great info here! i have read thru much of the site but can't figure this truck out i have an 02 6 speed with codes p0237 and p0112 i have gone thru the wiring replaced the map twice first new one was bad out of the box. not funky readings on anything i have done all the testing procedures and can't find anything off. i clear the codes and they instantly come back as soon as i start the truck i completely removed my edge box and truck ran worse extremely doggy with it on the truck at highest setting the truck is still a dog but driveable i cleaned all grounds tried an apps reset with no luck checked and triple checked all connec…
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First time poster long time listener. Last night I had a buddy flash my 2002 ram 3500 6speed 4x4 with his smarty to enable the high idle. The truck hasn't ran since last night, so this morning I tried what MoparMan said with the 100k ohm resistor and the intake air temp and the idle should ramp up within upto 5 minutes to make sure the feature is enabled. I sat and didn't touch anything and waited for it to do its magic. After 10 minutes of waiting it hasn't done anything. Since a few days ago the wait to start light works before starting but both heating elements wont run simultaneously based of watching the volt meter. When I hooked up the resistor the wait to start lig…
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I have been diagnosing my Camshaft sensor issue after installing a new ECU in my 1999 5sp Manual 2500. I have been going through the article: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/312-p0341-camshaft-position-cmp-sensor-signal I am using the pin-out from the FSM to locate the wire positions in the ECU connector and the sensor connector. There are numbers on the ECU connector for reference. I have found the conducting wire which actually goes to the Ecu connector in spot 9 instead of spot 17 as specified in the pin-out. There is full continuity between the Pin C in the cam sensor connector and pin 9 in the Ecu…
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Since I've been a big pusher of the ScanGauge II I'm now moving away from them. Being I picked up a Android Tablet for working on the web site I figured I would now pick up a OBDLink LX Bluetooth for diagnostics and also enhanced data. Like SmartyTouch has enhanced data like fuel temp and other things like Quadzilla and Edge does too. So if a person wants this information your stuck buying a expensive product. Now I'm working to get this data for the Common Joe. Here is what I've got... http://www.obdlink.com/lxbt/ Now here is the documents I've found for this project. saeJ1979_2006-08-25Ballot.pdf ISB_TROUBLESHOOTING_VOL_2.pdf 54262388-Cummins-Isb-Ch…
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