2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have a 98.5 24v cummins 5speed, It has a cracked block and a bad lift pump, probably bad IP, so I would like to do a 12v swap. To have a fully functioning truck, cruise, check engine light, stock gauges, etc what are my options? 1. I have read that I need a 98 pcm, but wouldn't there be more then one part number for 98 pcms? I could see there being different ones for: (auto/manual), (cruise/no cruise), (California, non cali emissions) (air conditioning/ or no a/c). Is there a part number list? Am I wrong is it much simpler? 2. What about a 97 pcm, would it not communicate with the other computers and instrument cluster? 3. Which harnesses do I need? I read I need fire…

Noticed pulling the trailer the other day that it was easy to get into the 1200 degree range on the egt's. Would a little bigger turbo like a gen 3 or 4 help with dropping the egt's a little. Have the comp on 5X3, have not played with it at all. Boost is in the 25-30 range. New to this diesel power stuff. lol Soon to add RV 275's

Ok so i turn the ingition switch on and The dash lights are dead, no radio, no wipers. no instrument panel, fuel pump does not cycle on for the normal two seconds, and the wait to start light dose not come on. tail lights work, head lights work, hazard lights work heater fan comes on and blows air. When i turn the ignition switch to the start position the blower turns off and that is it. My three gages on the pillar light up when the ignition switch is turned on but the have no power and do not light. I checked the fuses and i am thinking that the ignition switch may be bad. not sure how to check just a guess really.

Just like the title says... the truck won't shift out of 1st at any throttle position unless I take my foot completely off the throttle, then get back on it. Once it's out of 1st and past ~28mph, it shifts 2-3 and 3-4 completely normally. It will try to kick down into 1 if I go WOT/WFO under about 45mph. And if I floor it at low speed, it'll hold 1st all the way to redline, and won't shift. Is this a governor issue? I replaced the solenoid and sensor back in 2010 with dealer parts. I'm ready to order the Suncoast governor kit, I just want to make sure it's (probably) not something else...

well the fuse problem i had a few months ago was fixed with a new fuse, temporarily. yesterday on a 300 mile trip i had to replace the fuse 9 times to keep from driving the truck with 0 fuel pressure.. i even ran out of fuses and had to start pulling them from unneeded things in my instrument panel.. well anyways, i bought the truck used and the previous owner did not send in a warranty card, so ill be buying a replacement motor for it. as i said im the 2nd owner, i have never worked with something like this, from what i can tell the motor just bolts onto the mounting bracket and the fuel hose is connected on there.. can someone please list me the st…

Found oil in the coolant so I pulled the head off this weekend and will be dropping the head off at the machine shop tomorrow. I was wondering what everyone though the best head gasket was to use. I now have 100 horse scheid injectors. and will be adding a hx40, ats exhaust manifold, and arp studs at this time. Truck will be sled pulled and drag raced some but also daily driven. Thanks

Just got Draw Straw 5 from Vulcan to help with 1/4 tank sucking air problem. I got an upgraded in tank fuel pump module. This kit replaces in tank pump with clip in aluminum fitting and flex hose to top of sending unit. Then it says to replenish fuel back to module I need to use factory outlet (that's not used anyway) as return a quick connect that is 3/8 and new fitting is 3/8 to 1/2 barb. Before I did this my return was going to filler neck. So now that I got it all plumed according to instructions my fuel pressure went up to 22 where before it was 19. The only thing I can think of is restriction in return going from air dog to module, the actual hole in module is just …

I believe my drag link is wore out? The auto parts store website calls them the tie rod ends? There is some play in my steering wheel, but it doesn't wander around on the road. What I'm trying to figure out is if this is causing the vibration that I am having. It only happens between 30mph to 45mph. I don't really feel it in the steering wheel, just mainly in the floor board. The vibration is there weather I am braking, cruising, or accelerating. But like I said Its only between 30 and 45mph. Between 0-29mph and 46-above, its very smooth. Any ideas? I plan on going with moog parts. If I uploaded it right, I added a video of the drag link movement. tie…

Hey guys, finally got enough funds to install a Boost, Pyro, and the much needed Fuel Pressure Guages! I looked in to having them installed but it's going to run me around $300.00! So I thought I'd save my self some $ and try to find a step by step installion for them. Does anybody know where I can get my instructions preferably with pics? Thanks to all who chime in!!!!

My truck has been sitting for several weeks in the shop not being used. It has never leaked anywhere except the crankcase vent then only a couple of drops after parking. I have the 47 tranny, 4 wheel drive with 102,000 miles. I dropped the tranny pan and adjusted the bands about 5K ago and filled with fresh fluid. Pan was very clean. Now after sitting probably 7 weeks I start seeing a leak where the transfer case and tranny meet. It didn't start leaking until this week. Any ideas?

Hey all! This post my fall into the category of post whoring but I'd like to risk that in the hopes that it may help somebody else out when trying to decide what to do with their 47/48RE when it needs a bit of help. I want to be very clear here, the transmission in my truck had just a hair over 100k on it when I was contemplating this. I also know how it was driven since I know the PO of the truck. He didn't flog on it and took it in for service at the dealer every 25k just like clockwork. I felt very confident that it was in reasonably sound shape. I was experiencing TC clutch lockup slippage on the stock TC. It started when towing my 32 foot travel trailer b…

So over the past few days i have been dealing with an issue with my truck. Sometimes it starts when i put the key in and turn it sometimes it doesn't... this morning fine, this afternoon fine tonight at the fuel station nothing. the only why to get it to start is jumper across the terminal at the starter with the key on.... any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

I am seeing a constant 21-23 pounds, is that too much?

my 2001 2500 24 valve auto needs help, when cruising at 90 km and wanting to pass another vehicle, step on the accelerator, truck kicks down, speeds up to 100 km or so then falls on its face rpms go to governor but truck wont increase speed any more, have to pull back in behind, any suggestions

he Lowdown on the New Low-Viscosity Oils TMC session examines what's going in to the new API engine oil standard and what engine makers are doing to prepare. March 2014, TruckingInfo.com - WebXclusive by Deborah Lockridge, Editor in Chief - Also by this author SHARING TOOLS |PrintSubscribe Share on emailShare on facebookShare on twitterShare on linkedinMore Sharing Services6 Kinematic viscosity is what you might envision when thinking of viscosity – gravitational flow. But the new oils will meet viscosity standards measured at high temperatures/high shear conditions. To meet the expected greenhouse gas/fuel efficiency standards that…

What's the best filter for a 47re? I guess the search function and me don't get along...

The other day I broke the handle off on my ATF dipstick and had to cover the fill tube with aluminum foil till a new stick comes in on Tuesday. Since covering the tube with a plastic bag then foil and zip tying so it's almost air tight and isn't going to fall off the transmission is shuttle shifting between 3rd and 3rd lock (OD off, around town driving under 50mph). Does the fill tube vent transmission pressure gas? And could this cause my shuttle shift? Or should I catch up on the lock/unlock topic?

Alrighty gang, I finally got my new switch installed last weekend. I figured I would go through some of the basics on how I did my install just so others can have an idea on how to do theirs. When you get your switch in the mail, it should have the following things included: -The actual switch with wiring and connectors -A small piece of 3/8's heavy walled plastic tubing -Three 1" screws If something is missing, DAP will take care of your needs. If not, I am sure Ed could lend a helping hand wherever needed. First thing I did was remove the dash bezel. It just has pop clips all over the place that hold it to the front of the dash and around the cluster, radio,…

Howdy! I'm having some brake drag coming from the calipers in my truck. Here's a little background on how I got here: Worn out ball joints started me down the rabbit hole of a front end rebuild. I've got new ball joints, hub bearings, rotors, brake pads, track bar and steering box brace. The good news is it drives about like it should tho new TREs are in the near-ish future. That should finish things up and make it all good under there. I changed the pads and rotors because they were old and thin and the truck had started pulling to the left under moderate braking. Hard braking was straight as an arrow. Go figure... After I installed all this new hardware and …

Is it just me or does it make the truck a bit more peppy on the low end. I had to go to a service seminar 4 hours away from home. At 1 intersetion in particular you have to make a sharp turn to the left. I attempted this manuver...at a slow speed ,darn near did a 360 right there. Granted the roads were wet and I have studded winter tires but it was quite warm. WOW it works nice. I drove Like Michael told me for the most part on cruise at the speed limit. I had the Edge set on 5x3. Hand calculated is 20.76 mpg. I am pretty happy with it. A set of RV 275 or so injectors and it should be sweet. I wonder what these trucks would be like with an unlimited computer co…