2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

It’s time to “spring” into action! 8 leaf 4000 lb pack 2 leaf 1150 lb overloads New shackles (All from Rockauto) I used 4” blocks from ProForm Fabrication (they’re also tapered to get the pinion angle straight too). I didn’t want the *** end to sit up super duper high so to compensate for the thicker pack I used slightly shorter blocks (my oem blocks are 4.5” tall). Old leaf pack is 2” thick and the new ones are 3-9/16“. The bolt by the fuel tank is not really an issue. Just cut it off flush with the hanger and you can drive it all the way in without hitting the tank. You can fish it out with a magnet and then put the new bolt in from the outside. I used locally made…

WOLFBOX G850 PRO 4K Mirror Dash Camhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DD3NV7PX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title With all the miles I've put down on Beast and all the wild stuff I've seen, now I can capture this stuff for future proof. I'm very pleased with the product and the function. I'll admit I've not finished the installation of the rear camera completely on the rear bumper. I tucked it in at the rear window for now, but the other functions, like lane departure warning, are incorrect because the camera location is wrong. Huge menu of options that make the whole camera part very universal for any vehicle. The 2 camera and 3 different views of the cameras. (Default is Rea…

So I finally have my new engine installed ( bone stock rotating assembly except I did put a tow cam in it) and im looking at engine break in procedures they all recommend towing decent weight no idle time ect all makes sense but I have 2 questions 1 ) should I run higher timing with the quadzilla to try and raise cylinder pressure for better ring seal? 2) highly contrivosal but does anyone recommend a break in oil if so what type? Ill be switching to Synthetic after the first 1000 miles and changing oil after the first 400-500 miles ( block has been sitting for years so lots of dirt and such probably in it)

When I started my truck the first time with the new ECM the fuel pressure was at its normal range of 14-15psi. After I shut the truck off I replaced a wire on my switch box and accidentally knocked a wire from the fuel pump relay. When I started it again I noticed I had zero pressure. Thinking I could figure it out quickly, the truck ran out of fuel. Once it was sorted the truck obviously wouldn’t start. I loosened the fass filter and ran the pump until it gushed and then retightened. I then cracked 2 injectors and cranked until they bubbled out fuel. The truck runs but now it takes a a few extra seconds of cranking when cold to start and the fuel pressure gauge d…

I picked up a 2000 Ram 2500 with the Cummins a few months ago. The PO said that he'd replaced the fuel pump a couple of times, which I should have paid more attention to. Ran fine though for a few months. Recently I had a big miss, or shudder under heavy acceleration onto a highway but ran fine for the rest of the trip. It happened several more times on later trips, usually at gradual acceleration. No CEL at that time. I did get the 0237 code, so got a new MAP sensor hoping that would fix it, but it didn't. I cleaned all grounds and harness connectors. Since then, a few test drives have been OK, with no missing, but even though I cleared the codes, they come…

Was pulling my car trailer the other day (empty) when I got into the throttle just a little to get across the intersection, the rear yoke decided it'd had enough. So, does anyone have any suggestion on a good strong yoke? Does anyone make a yoke that uses u-bolts instead of straps? I have changed the front over to u-bolts but haven't found one for the rear. Dana 80 axle in 2000 ram 2500 L6 5 speed.

The time has come I can no longer put off replacing my tappet cover gasket. While in there I will be doing a re-seal of my vacuum pump also. Along with swapping in my hotrod vp44 from 98 cracked 53 block. I want to make sure I do everything I should while I've got it torn apart. Are there any other seals or anything else that I should be replacing while in it already?

SO...after 15 years, my fuel pressure sensor is dying. Called EDGE and they suggested a replacement sensor: 4000700 for $90. Not being able to 100% sure tell me it would work with the Attitude... Any suggestions on this? alternate sensors, alternate fuel pressure/EGT gauges? I am down to only using the Attitude to monitor these two things and would seriously consider changing to a 2 in one guage.... the JUICE module is apparently dead.

For a long time, I’ve been trying to fix the dash issue of only having fuel level and battery voltage and speed, and the OBDll 1698 main relay control SC VBatt code and CCD on overhead module. In the beginning, I was able to disconnect the PCM module while the vehicle was running, and it would reset the dash and the overhead module. I sent the PCM out to Crites car Computer and when it can back I still had the same code 1698 main Relay so I sent it back again and still have the code1698 Main relay control sc vbatt and overhead module message CCD. The truck came with the edge performance module but never worked so I disconnected it. I purchased another OEM key fob but…

So I am tracking down an electrical issue that may be PCM related. The transmission shop said it's electrical, but I feel like there are odd things that it does that leads me to think it's mechanical. It was starting in second and third really badly, and it did not want to shift worth a dam. I replaced the vss on the back of the transmission, and it starts usually in 1st, shifting is allot better. First issue is that when I turn on the OD off button nothing happens. The truck still runs and shifts like normal. It shifts into od and eve locks the converter. It should drop out of oD and lock the converter, but it doesn't. Next is I can downshift down to manual 2 eve…

Long time reader, first time poster. At my witts end. Bear with me while I bring you up to speed. I have a 1998.5 2500 automatic 2wd with roughly 155K miles. It was my grandfather's truck that I ended up with after his passing. It wasn't in good running condition, but after some TLC it was a dream. Work done includes - new turbo, ball joints, batteries, a/c, trailer wiring, tires, control arms, axle seals, belt, new suspension, cab lights, neutral safety switch, abs speed sensor, output speed sensor, and APPS. Two years ago it went down on me one night while driving down the interstate, and I'm still trying to fix it. I was on cruise and suddenly lost power, not d…

Hi all, First post here. I bought a 99 24valve about 4 years ago, completely stock, still is today. With having another work truck around it doesn't get driven much. When I bought the truck, it ran perfectly, started every time I turned the key so on and so forth. After sitting awhile, it started acting a bit weird and through a code for the crankshaft position sensor, I replaced with one from Autozone. Tach would die, and stutter/ reduced power, but it would run. Just not right. I did notice when I replaced it looked like it had been replaced before in relation to the grime on the block. Ran well for a bit, then the same thing started happening, I thought I would try ch…

I purchased my first dodge cummins in December of last year. It is a 2001 3500 4x4 NV5600 with at the time 112,000 miles. I drove it 6 hours home without any hiccups other than the crappy steering which i have since fixed. In January i wrecked the truck coming off of a completely iced over hill and ran backwards into a rock wall doing 55+ mph. The truck drove home afterwards. Once i got it home and fixed the busted lights, the vp44 went out all at once and it died in the road. I install the upgraded thoroughbred diesel VP44, billet tappet cover, and a fass 165. My truck has not ran right since. It has a stutter now. When between 1700-2200 rpm it will randomly stutter almo…

Trans was making funny noise. Tore into it and discovered pieces of a gear in bottom of case. SO, where is best place to source heavy duty parts for the nv4500?

I thought I’d share my recent drivetrain upgrade I put in my 01’ 3500 (SRW converted) 6 spd. On transfer case side of things swapping a NP271D in is pretty common for a 2nd gen. I wanted to take it one step farther. It took some trial & error finding what parts will work and what doesn’t. It’s pretty much a modified Ford design. I found a used 08’ NP271D and rebuilt/modified it. Eliminated the leaky Dodge slip yoke tail housing and utilized the rear fixed flange yoke setup from a 06’ NP273F. I bought the rebuild kit, some updated parts & specific seal installers from TorqueKing4x4. I also installed the Ford style companion flange on my Dana 80 along with a…

Pulled the truck into the garage to replace some lights. When I tried to start it the WTS light was flashing and the truck would only crank and not fire. I tried pulling codes and got nothing. I disconnected the batteries for a few minutes and nothing changed. I unplugged the Quadzilla and the WTS light functioned as normal. The truck started right up but instantly idled at 1200rpm and then went into 3cyl idle mode. I checked my idle control switch and it’s in the off position. My throttle is also unresponsive(Timbo). Thanks to my low stall converter I was able to get the truck out of the garage and back into its parking spot. When I parked it the idle dropped to 9…

So 17k on a reman long block, initial 1000 miles were broke in with synthetic oil (against manufacture requirements) as soon as I learned I flushed and refilled with DINO oil. That being said, I'm now at 17k and loosing about a quart every 200 miles. I REALLY believe it is my turbo (original to the truck, currently 451k miles. Not blowing smoke but the tailpipe is sooty... no oil "leaks" under the truck. If the turbo was leaking oil, how would it be indicated? at $600 to get a reman from Thoroughbred Diesel and I just better replacing the turbo than paying a shop $300 just to find the oil leak? Is there a better/cheaper place to get a reman turbo? WHAT is the possib…

On Wednesday I had been on the freeway for about 15 minutes and the engine just shut down and I ultimately got it towed home. I still had/have normal fuel pressure (about 20psi) and the computer appears to be working at least well enough for my code reader to connect but there are no codes showing. Battery voltages is good and the terminal connections are tight. I swapped the Fuel relay with the horn relay and it still worked and also did the same with the ASD and Security relays just in case. At this point the starter motor cranks nice and fast but the engine doesn't even try to start. I tried loosening one of the injector lines and cranking it and I'm not seeing an…

Well, driving home with the travel trailer in tow today pulling a hill at 55 minding my own business truck running great, crested the hill and bam, engine died. Coasted off to the side of the road. Checked fuel pressure from the FASS fuel pump, all good. Still no start. Get it towed home and have codes P0232, P1689 and P1688. Looks like I need an injector pump.

Hi excuse me to disturb you, I have a 98,5 dodge ram 2500 cummins. I ve just changed my vp44 by a rebuilt, I ve changed too injector by rebuilt 75 HP, changed the 6 lines by New, 6 connectors tubes seals, the fuel filter, put transparent hose to see if there is bubbles but no, and I have a problem. The truck start good, the idle doesnt move ( like apps dead), when I accelerate the engine cut off. I restart , it restart good. Before I forget I have installed before I changed all that, a superchips cortex programmer.... I found à little leak on my new injection lines ( 1, 3 4 5) at the connection with tubes... I have no code ... I make a video to explain it... what do you t…