2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Update 10/15/15! The Mopar1973man.com Cummins High idle switches are for sale again in the Forum store http://forum.mopar1973man.com/store/product/41-mopar1973man-high-idle-switch/ The Mopar1973man.com Cummins High Idle Kits are no longer sold through DAP.

I am wanting to start collecting parts for the conversion. So when I need to I can do the conversion. Spending thousands on an automatic rebuild doesn't seem smart. So what do I need? How big of a job is it? Weekend? Which transmission should I look for? I do want overdrive.

Installed raptor 100 about one month ago fuel pressure changes about every three days and has to be adjusted Up or down 3-4psi is this a problem with the raptor? If the screen on the inlet is clogged would it pump 42oz fuel at the vp in one cycle? When you set fuel pressure at 17psi at idle wot is 13 is that normal? Thanks Ed

I have been lurking on here for a while and just recently decided to sign up since I have learned so much on here, so this is my first post.Thanks to Mike and others on here-what a great site.I bought my 2001 XC 4x4 Auto the end of July and have been doing some work on it. It had 96,000 miles. This is what I have done.Installed MoparMan's puke bottle fixInstalled gauges-fuel pressure, egt, boost, transmission tempChanged all the fluids/filters and was pleasantly surprised at the cleanliness of the tranny pan.Installed the '08.5 and up steering kit from Mopar since I had a slack in a couple of tie rods.Alligned and balancedInstalled a FASS 95 with new lines to the OEM filt…

I was cruising down the highway towing the boat a couple months ago, set cruise on 60 and just started to slow down nice and easy. Since then, it has been out except I tried it yesterday and I feel it trying to take the pedal but it gives up. I am looking for any suggestions on an accurate way to diagnose if it is a vacuum leak or something in the servo. I look forward to your response.

I figured now would be a good time to change the fuel filters being its double the typical mileage. Stock is suppose to change out at 15,000 miles or every other oil change. Here is what the stock filter and the Donaldson P551315 looks like after 30,000 miles of fuel pumped through them.I must be getting clean fuel because I was totally expecting after 30,000 miles I would be look at a AirDog filter that was black and the stock filter about the color I see now. But I was shocked to see both rather light colored. Now I know to just use my fuel pressure gauge and look for the fuel pressure drop. Because both of these could of gone farther yet and still in good condition.

So here I am again.... When I'm driving my 5 speed, usually in 5th and highway speeds, I put the pedal down and the rpm's go up but the truck doesn't accelerate. It doesn't do it all the time and it does it mostly in 5th gear. I know this is probably an easy diagnosis but I'm no mechanic so let's here some ideas!!!Thanks in advance!!!

Finally got a comp for my 02. I'm reading the directions and I'm having trouble deciphering where and what wire to tap. " Top wire closest to engine block". Anyone know what color this one is? Stock VP the engine is an H.O. Also, the instructions say nothing about the ground wire, can this go anywhere? Where did you guys that have one put it. - - - Updated - - - Never mind, ten pages into the search someone directed me to the Juice installation page from Edge. Alot better picture than the Comp page.

can some one tell me if the turbocharger is ok to have side to side play on the blades. it dose not have end play. the blades do not seem to be hitting the housing the truck has 160,000 miles on it thanks Joe

Well here you go... 27.2 MPG and 106 Mile trip from home to McCall, ID then back home the into Riggins, ID and then back home. All up and down hills. But I finally caught up to ISX's 27 MPG... :woot:Sorry for the blurry pic but I turn off my camera flash to get the photos without the flash blocking out the screens.

Alright only a day before i take my big Camper on her first maiden voyage(with us that is). While in town cashing my check and getting Diesel $100 worth... I felt the clutch pedal was sponge like and pushed to easy compared to normal. shifted the same ran the same. Till i got home pulled in to the drive and started to back up but couldn't get it to go back in gear. Shut the truck off put it in first pushed the clutch in fired the truck back up. Let out the clutch truck rolled forward as normal then stoped repressred the clutch and wouldn't go back in any gear. Let the truck sit and cool for 3 hour's came back and it's back to normal now. Called a trans shop talked to him …

99,6XX miles and the injection pump is failing, again. I ordered the new vp today. I need a fuel pressure gauge because the air dog light must not be completely functional. Am looking at a juice attitude cts, thoughts? Why not get the power as well as monitoring is my thoughts. Occasionally I run red, good or bad idea? Do I need a fuel additive? What would you guys do to my truck to help with A) fuel problems and B) mileage? Can't keep dropping $1000 every couple years on a vp. Air dog has stock 15lb spring, should I change to 17lb? Keep in mind I do have emissions here in Denver.

My truck is in the shop I was just going to have them replace the pinion seal but then it turned into a possible bad yoke bearing now they say they need to rebuild the entire rear diff which will cost 3388!!!! There is no way I can afford that. Has anyone done this themselves could I take on this project with just a basic home shop? Or does anyone have any advice? Anything is appreciated thanks!

I'm kinda ignorant about programmers/chips. I am not a big fan of HP mods, but definately fuel economy and I want to do the 3 cylinder warm up. I would appreciate more torque while towing up a grade and avoid shifting down into a lower gear.Can we discuss the pro's and con's of various options? Smarty, Edge, etc.. I prefer simple as well. Are there literally chips to install, or is that just a term for reprogramming?

Dunno how many of you know this already, but Stainless Diesel broke 1000 HP on the dyno with a VP44 fuel only. Think they did some adjustments on their second run, and broke 1040 fuel only. I thought that was awesome. Just wanted to share!

First, I have tried two different readers. I bought a cheap actron and it say's "no link". So I borrowed a nicer one from a buddy from work and it says, "can not establish connection, check port connection." It's acting like I have a dead port. Any suggestions? Second, the problem i am having is it's gone dead pedal on me twice now in the last week. The engine just drops right to an idle and the cel comes on. It idles just fine, not rough at all just no pedal. Both times it has only lasted 15 - 20 seconds and come right out of it. The cel stays on for about a day then it goes out. Anyone run onto this before? The dead port I mean, I have read about a thousand threads on …

"Anybody had any trouble with their OD button on the gear shift working intermittently? The problem seems to be a possible dirty switch but I don't want to guess. Ideas? Works both ways, shifting into OD off or on, can't get the thing to go even after several attempts.

Posted this on oilburners, and thought someone here might have a clue. Quote: Originally Posted by fsmyth View Post Me, too. New injector pump, cranks great cold. Homebrew pump system similar to FASS (dual pumps in parallel, dual frame filters). Did NOT have this problem before the VP44 died, tho. Pumps off while cranking, max pressure while cranking - no difference. Finally finished killing the starter Replacing it today. One oddity - I hooked the pump relays back up to the ECM (the wire that used to run the pump on the block, and now that hookup no longer runs the pump after 1st crank (the 3-second thing), but does keep the pumps running for …

Hauled the camper up to the hills last weekend to go huckleberry camping. On tight to not so tight corners i'm getting a huge pulsating grind coming from the rearend of the truck. I have always felt a grind when I'm loaded and turning tightly on asphault or concrete but not near this bad and not with pulsation. This weekend I was on loose gravel and dirt and still got the bad grinding.I just assumed I had posi. because of the grind on dry pavement and in the winter the diff stays locked no matter what. In fact I've come close to wadding the truck up a few times as a result. I also go through rear tires like mad, which I thought was a diesel torque thing. Now the questions…

Have looked thru threads, I need to find the 4 inch hose on the return line from the turbo. I do not want to pay dealer 50.00 soooo where can I find one?