2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

ok about to pull the transmission again ....i think i broke third gear ....looking to see if anyone has any experience in rebuilding a nv4500? i figure that its got to b cheaper than a rebuilt one ...best price i have gotten so far is $3400......also sorry for the long time between posts but between the army and the new job at kenworth truck company I havent had much spare time till now......thanks alot gang

I'm new here so I would like to say hello to everyone first. Looks like a good forum.I have tried two different OEM lift pumps and still getting very slow to climb fuel pressures on start ups. It'll stay at 4 psi for a few seconds then climbs slow to 10. I wait a few more seconds and it climbs only to 11. I used to always have 14 and went up right away after start ups. With my 1/2 inch lines and big draw straw it would always stay on 14 even with the camper on at WOT. I would like to wire the LP to the battery without the truck running for a test to see if the pressure climbs fast like it used to. If I turn on the key to activate the gauge will it send a code? T…

O.K.... Trans. starting acting weired, 3-4th gear hunt last week. i recalibrated the APPS and it fixed it, then Last Night coming down the Parkway cruising at 70MPH it started what felt like either jumping out of 4th Gear or TQ unlocking only for a split second, I MEAN IT WOULD ONLY DO IT SEAM LIKE WHEN I WOULD VERY SLIGHTLY DECREASE PRESSURE ON THE PEDAL. It would only last for a split second...... Done the key trick this morning and got "122 code But here's the thing, I just replaced the APPS with TIMBOS 8-months ago. I remember that at first when i put the volt meter on it following Tims instructions on adjusting free travel my orginal voltage was way high over w…

whats a good brand to buy ? I am in need of the sensor alone there is a gauge and all in the truck just my old sensor on the trans ( oil pan ) got a rusted tip and wire would not stay on there long enough that is a single wire sensor the other option is an aftermarket oil pan but does any of them come pre drilled for a temp sensor ?

With the help from others on a different web site, I'm almost convinced that I need a new injector pump. Have a good lift pump with 22 psi pressure. Recently (today) cracked the fuel lines going to injectors 1, 3, & 4 and got a little bit of fuel. The front line had quite a bit of bubbles. Also have a 1688 code stating that the injector pump controller manfunctioned. Only this evening did I replace the fuel filter. Do I need to bleed it? Does it take long for the fuel to flow properly after replacing the filter if I don't. And finally, what's your take on a used injector pump (money's tight right now and elk season's only a month away)? Thanks

I have "leaky line syndrome" you know where the connectors hold the lines from rubbing each other along the transmission. They have started to rust and are beginning to drip. I called the Dodge dealer and the three lines cost $232.78 not including the little clips (rust starters) that are $3 each. The price didn't sound too hateful but I was wondering if there is another source that has lines with a port for the transmission temperature gauge that I am going to install?I called Geno's who sells them for the older trucks but not the 02. They recommended Goerend Transmissions who said they order them from Dodge and would have to charge shipping on top of that. No good.…

Has anyone ever adjusted the bands on the trans, if so can you notice any diffrence ?2001 dodge 2500 5.9 cummins 225,000 miles

Could someone give me a little info on 0232? What and where to start? Is this due to bad ECM?

Figured I would throw this out there. I have had a funny delayed almost slipping type 2-3 shift the past few months and have been giving the 02 a front to rear service and check over and tune up. I pulled the tranny pan and the last couple times it has been loaded with metal and friction material. been that way the last 3 times actually so I have been waiting for the death of it but it keeps hanging in there with 131K of abuse.Back to the story well I adjusted the rear band all was ok there put pan on filled with new amsoil and then went about the PITA front band adjustment which is when I figured out where all the material is coming from. I adjust it every 30K or so when…

Yesterday I checked my air filter and found that a mouse had started chewing it. No gaping hole, but getting there. I realized that the factory air box is nothing more than a nice "mouse motel" and decided that it was time for a BHAF as they are covered with steel mesh and not so easy to eat through.I did a search and didn't find too much regarding how to mount this thing so I thought of making a steel bracket from 1.5" x 10" steel strap 1/16" thick, [see last photo]. I drilled a 5/16" hole in the end of the air filter and put a bolt with a large flat washer through from the inside and bolted the bracket to it using thread locker and two nuts so the bolt couldn't come …

tried to adjust my valves today and could not turn the engine using the altenator bolt. i turned it both ways and it slipped either way. i clouldnt figure out a way to put more tension on it with the tools at hand and dont own a barring tool. any of yall ever done it a differant way?

I am going to be changing my Exhaust Manifold in my 99 Cummins and not sure what to torque the bolts at. I was trying to search and came up with 23, 32 and 44 so I have no idea what it should be for a 99. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You

So I have a cracked #53 block in my truck. I have found a number of sites that claim the crack can be repaired by stiching it. Sounds like a bad idea to me. What do you guys think about this? Maybe if the truck would never be modded. But I plan on making 500-600hp. Are 12 valve and 24 valve blocks compatible in any way? Would a motor out of a 02 work in my 99? Im just trying to save a few bucks. I have a complete 99 engine lined up for $1100. But it will need a rebuild costing me another $4000. I also found a complete engine out of a 02 with only 94,000 miles on it for $3200. I was told some engines have cam and crank sensors. While others only have a crank sensor. Can I…

Just got the new kevlar ceramic single disc from Valair put in, its great! Ill have some pics of the old clutch up by the end of the day, it was pretty bad only it wasnt the clutch material itself it was all the springs lol-Jordan-

Just curious what everyone is seeing for oil pressure. I'm seeing 60-70 idle cold engine, 25-40 idle warm engine and 50-60 cruising down the highway.

friday of last week i drove home from Elizabeth city nc to hickory nc. the truck ran beautiful with no problems. ran it out of fuel the next day. reprimed everything no problem. checked all my fluid including oil sunday before leaving for columbia tn on monday. the truck ran flawlessly again. had my 5th wheel on, drove over the bluridge mountains no problems what so ever. stopped to buy fuel and noticed some oily residue on the landing gear and front of the rv. looked under the truck a i could see fluid on every thing, not dripping anywher but wet pretty much all over. opened the hood and all the resevoirs were full so i pulled the dipstick and i was growing oil. it appea…

Was at my brothers today and was talking about his old ctd 2000 2500 4x4. anyways the lift pumped failed so he went a picked up a 100 dollar edlebrock electric fuel pump, spliced it into his lines by tank and ran them straight to filter bowl bypassing lift pump completely. ran power to a toggle switch in cab which is handy because if anyone is gonna steal the truck they would make it about 200ft before running out of fuel. after install he never dropped below 15 psi and never got above 20-21. anyone else done this?

Do the bolts that hold the rear engine lifting bracket on the head go through the intake housing and do they need thread sealer on them?Reason I ask is I just installed the scheid 100 hp injectors and was test driving and looking for leaks and when I spray things down with brake cleaner It is pulling it into the intake when I spray around the # 5-6 injector line/lifting bracket area.Intake cover and manifold area are ok but it is the area behind it that causes it to start sputtering when I hit it with brake cleaner, only thing I could think is if it was following the lifting braket bolts into the intake?Any ideas?

I have torn down my truck and the head is removed and getting it all ready to take the the machine shop tomorrow to have it checked and shaved flat. Do I have to remove the valve springs before I take it to them or can those stay in? Everything is completely removed except those and I wasn't sure about them.

OK I got time to do some digging to update I was driving down the road and it died would restart only idle rough no thottle response, but after starting four times doesn't idle anymore. Codes were 1688/1689OK 20 psi going into the pump, fuel spits out at injecter line( don't know how much) put a different injecter pump in that I had and it still is the same way it was after it died. Cleared codes and none have came back. Any ideals where to go next, thinking start at the batterys and check every connection I can, will have to take to a dealer next don't know where to go. Thanks for the help:banghead: