2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I recently bought a 02 Dodge 2500 4wd auto, bone stock w/ 58,000 miles. I was driving it today and it won't stay in overdrive. About 55-60 mph or 1500-1700 rpm seems to be the worst about kicking in an out. I was on flat roads maintaining a steady speed. I'm new to auto transmissions behind a Cummins but this don't seem right.Help or suggestions appreciated.

Well I was changing the fluid and filter in my wonderful stock 47re yesterday. Found what looked like a 5 inch diameter snap-ring in pieces attached to the magnet in the trans pan. Had a good bit of metal shavings on the magnet also. Trans is also slipping when it shifts gears now with the fluid lever full. Worked fine until changing the fluid and filter. Anyone ever run into this? Has anyone ever used Revmax parts for their trans?

My Airdog 150 quit working yesterday. After checking it out I found that the pump is working fine if I jump 12 volts straight to it, which leaves me at a relay or wiring problem. Does anyone know the part number of the relay I need? Any other suggestions would also be welcomed. I really hate wiring problems!:banghead:

I'm really underwhelmed. I see elegant bilet machined fittings... that are seemingly "just" pressed into an inferior rubber gromet. There does not seem to be any compression... no nut on the inside. No flange bolted down. I see lots of pictures that seem to indicate fuel leakage on top of the tank. Am I missing something?I've worked on built tanks in the marine industry... Threaded holes. Under flanges with gaskets. Threaded tank tops. I've seen metal tanks fail (after immersion in salt water)... a handful in 20,000 installations. I've seen fill hoses get loose & leak... a couple in 20,000 installations. I just can't go for a defective design. It jus…

After driving 250miles south she was running fine. I filled up and shortly after had what felt like a misfire. the truck was driving fine but it just wasnt idling like it used to. I put another 750 miles in the same week and have filled up 2 or three times now and it still isnt idling right. i changed the fuel filter and now a day later its not starting right. it will turn over, choke a couple times and die. then i have to crank for about 6-10 second with nothing and then she will fire and run. I my lift pump is just over a year old and my pressure sensor recently died do to lack of isolation. i have plenty of power all around still and my fuel mileage is still the same. …

Just yesterday my truck stopped shifting out of first gear. It hold first as long as I'm accelerating but when I let off a little bit it sometimes shifts into second and then from there it's fine but when I come to a complete stop again same thing all over again. I'm new to this forum so I will fill out my sig right now.

I am thinking that a Low FP Warning would be a good idea... Who offers one? My thought is to T the switch in when installing the new FP gauge. Your experiences?

I've been getting code 0336, crankshaft position sensor, lately so I changed the sensor tonight. Still the same problem. Under heavy acceleration the tach bounces around and the comes on. When I'm towing a heavy load the tach will stay at zero long enough that the engine defuels some. To me it seems to be related to the extra vibration caused by the increased power. Any ideas what I should look for next?

I know I have read this before but here goes anyway. My old motor ran around 40 plus on the oil pressure, new motor runs on the edge of the next mark up. A big diff. from before, and I know it could be the sending unit which I can swap out sence I have a new one on my old motor. What would the next mark up be? And where does your gauge run?

I was a little disappointed this afternoon when I tried to install my new BHAF & it seemed like there wasn't enough space to close the hood.....I just got a Donaldson DuraLite off Vulcan Performance like a lot of folks are using.....Anybody have any idea how much space is usually left after installing the BHAF between the top of the filter & the hood.....It didn't really look like it fit to me & I definitely don't want any warping in the hood..... Also, does anybody have an idea if those bolts for the factory air box can be taken out from the bottom side.....I didn't really feel like removing my fender liner to find out if they could be taken out.....wasn…

I am installing new eng. and have a few questions. I am not a clutch expert but here gose. What brand of gresse should I go back with on shaft that throw out bearing slides on? It had a little but was getting dry and hard. Also shouldnt the splines that the clutch rides on have a little? You can see it had some at one time but is dry now.

Hey guys,Well yesterday my NV4500 decided to lose 3rd/4th gear. Now I'm trying to decide on what to do.... I've seen that ATS and Haisley Machine both sell a NV4500 and I know I can buy the parts to fix mine. But my problem is I'm trying to decide what the best bang for the buck would be.... Would I be better off with a NV5600 or stick with the NV4500? The FSO-6404a swap is pretty cool but I'm not sure about trying to source all the parts right now. Any opinions on the ATS or Haisley trans or any other places and parts outlets?:shrug:I know I make well over what the NV4500 is rated for and I'd like not to have breakage down the road even though I don't generally drive tha…

my truck shouldn't have had an in tank fuel pump hey?what im asking is what me as second owner putting in the raptor 150 and finding stock in the tank could mean..1. vp44 has been starved?2.was there any special order in '01 that would make this possible stock3.he replaced with another stock lp in the tank (wasn't there a recall?)

I've got a sound that started over a year ago from inside the dash.(truck was still completely stock and 115k) At first I thought it was just something in the door pocket or glove box rattling.. it also was so faint i thought I might be hearing things...and I would only hear it at around 2000 rpms if I pressed the pedal (some days I wouldnt hear it though and then it'd come back confirming I hadnt been hearing things)It eventually got louder and louder til now it actually is really annoying but still its worse sometimes and sometimes I swear its gone(i thought it was gone all winter but it came back as it started warming up out)I've checked and fixed a leak from my t…

Do I need to pull cross member and move trany back with a transmission jack.What I am asking is can trany side back in the slots on cross member enough to pull eng?

Driving yesterday,and layed it to the throttle(not any harder than i have before)now truck is running like crap. No codes,lot of white/light grey smoke from exhaust. Real rough idle,not any better above idle.:banghead:

Will its started, I have just got the bumper off and I bet the truck raised 2 inches from just the weight . My question is can the evaporator or let me say can the A/C compressior stay hooked up while I pull eng. The reason is this A/C is the coldest A/C I have ever seen, it will get down to 29 degress in south Tx 100 plus heat, I just hate to break the seal .Has anybody ever done this?

Ok guys bear with me, I did a search on changing rear main and no luck anywhere, I know I have seen it before but cant remember. If I remember right you can replace the rear main with oil pan on or off right? Right now my eng stand has the back of my block hid so I cant see it.I need to pull my oil pan before I install eng. to clear cross member. I just wanted to do everthing I can while eng is on stand. And trying to plan it all out. getting close:hyper:

Now I see why they are so easy to leak. I replaced the gasket on my new motor today and the rubber gasket just crumbled in my hand.

when I climb under my truck and look up at the transmission I can see what looks like a big gear (fly wheel?) Am I missing a cover or is made like that. Thanks