2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

what do uguys recommend for fuel additives?I see some of you use 2 cycle for its lubricating value but what about for the cold winter months to prevent gelling......all of them pretty much the same?I think they use a product called 911 at my work.Oh....and what do u think of stanadyne additives?

There was a write up on it and cant fine it to save my life. Anyone know size and pitch? Need to clean block --- Update to the previous post... I got it, cummins ordered me one, 31.00

Hey guys - replaced my injectors 1x with ISX holding my hand (where's the "flower" icon ) anyway Thinking of getting rid of my RV275's and going to +75 => +100HP ...... together with hx35/hx40 hybrid. That with my methanol/water kit should bring right at 275->425 HP which is as far I as think I should go without new headstuds/bigger turbo. So thinking a couple things. (1) What you think between full injector replacement or just nozzles ?? (2) Think of these http://www.cumminsperformanceparts.com/cpp-injectors.html + 100HP and http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/35-fslash-40%20turbo%20budget.htm or something else in some price point ? I haven';t …

I know this is a dead horse but i need input from anyone that has experience. My current setup is HX35/ht3b, Edge juice (HOT) WAM, JL Machining 240hp injectors, Haisley head gasket with fire rings, ARP studs, 6 spd, SBC 3600 DD , 3.54 ratio. I think I have enough supporting mods for everything I have but I know the JL's are way to big for towing. I can easily stab 1500 in the back in about 3 seconds when I get on the juice. I have towed with this setup some but really have to be on top of it. I been there and done that and now I just want "usability" so I am fixin to order some new injectors from Jacob(diesel auto power) he seems to have some good prices. I have decide…

well..the truck is grid heater deleted...a FBD grid heater delete was installed.....and a black power coated ats arc flow intake.....i got a block heater and a high/3cyl. box ..so no problems.i like it so far.:thumbup2::thumbup2::thumbup2::thumbup2:

I have read so much I dont know what to belive. It sounds posable that I may have a weak bolt that is not pulling it down right. I checked them all the best I could. So here is what I torqed them to 50 first time around then 77 and rechecked 77 again, then 90 degree.What do you think?

On my 01 3500.I removed the pitman arm.Then pull out the first seal,It is just pressed in by hand no tools needed.Then dig the next seal out with a small screw driver.Now remove the snapring.Now put the nut and washer back on.Start the truck put a oil catch pan under truck move the wheel back-n forth fast a few times.Shut off truck.The seal and washer will be forced out but will not drop to the ground because you put the nut back on.Now you have all the parts in order that came out.Grease up the new seals and shaft install new seals.

How labor intense would it be if it could be done?

Well gang... I know a bunch of you have either built your own high idle mod or purchased one through Prowelder or maybe another source. But I know a few of you have had some diagnostic problems in building or have had issues after installing. Well this little write up should walk you through most of it ad figure out what is going on. Ok let get down to tools... You'll need a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) set on ohms. Now lets start with the ECT fooler... Now with the female plug which is the plug that hooks to the ECM we want to measure the ohms at this plug with the fooler in the ON position. It should read 3.3K ohms. If its open check the other…

I love the way a stick shift pulls but my 98 has the 47re. It was rebuilt just before I got it with supposedly heavy duty parts from a shop in Phoenix. I called the shop with my serial number and they said it was there heaviest duty tranny available. Now to my problem,I hate how this thing feels soft or mushy between lockup. Sometimes if I slow down almost to a stop but not quite, it will stay in second and just wind up really high without really gaining speed. Really anytime the convertor isnt locked it just feels like im not putting the power to the ground. Is this just the nature of the beast or will a good tripple disk TQ fix this? I drove my buddies 04 Dmax the other…

I am wanting to up grade my turbo but not sure what to get. I want something that doesnt cost alot and would better then the turbo I got. I just put a hx35 on it and im not to happy with it. I had to riger magiger a few things up to make it work and now i just want to find a good priced bigger turbo. Im looking for something thats not gonna cost me an arm and leg. Any idea's. I dont know all the turbo's are and what they support. So hoping someone on here will help me out. Thanks

Will a rear end out of a 04 dully fit a 01 dully?

Ok I am fixing to change my oil for the first time. What filter and oil does everyone run? I was thinking Mopar Filter and Rotella 15w 40. Are these ok if not why?

hey guys i dont no if you all remember my post bout my 2002 24 valve with the weird miss in it but just thought i would let you all no what was wrong with it. ok so the truck ended up blowing out the head gasket between 5 and 6 and on top of that the aftermarket head gasket i put on the truck not even 11,000 miles ago took number 5 piston out with it so in short the motor gets a over haul at just 154,289. thanks for everybodys help.

How much boost should I be able to develope with a boost elbow?

I get some crazy wheel hop from a dead stop if I hit it hard...bucks crazy.....then a shutter or vibration when shifting 2nd to 3rd when accelerating hard....not just in a turn either....almost feels the same as the hop, just lighter.You can feel and hear it thru the dash.....never from first to second.....just second to third......probably torque converter and not more wheel hop huh?

I just notticed this morning after arriving at work that I have a slow drip. I tried tightening the plug but it Will not tighten up enough to stop the drip. I searched it and of course it can't just be a normal frickin screw in plug . Anybody deal with this drain plug before. Thoughts suggestions ? I am at work so don't want to mess with it till I get home. Thanks Rob

I was just wondering if it's important to worry about the KDP problem on 2002 models? I know they say that some have an updated case cover that fixes the problem & others don't have the fix.....Is the KDP problem very common on 02' models? I purchased mine new in May of 2002 & was just wondering if there is any way to know at all if it has an updated timing case cover?

I just bought my truck a few months ago, this is my first diesel and I am very happy with it. I've been looking into getting the high idle and 3 cylinder high idle enabled on it and getting the fooler as I am tired of waiting for it to warm up. My concern is does the 3 cylinder high idle wear 3 cylinders more than the other 3? Does the firing order alternate when in 3 cylinder high idle? I just don't want to tear the engine up. I would think that if Cummins included this in the software that it would be ok to use, after all they are the experts.

My son has a 2002 Ram 2500 HO 6 speed manual. About a week ago, the codes p0112 and p0237 showed up.We took off the Edge EZ otherwise the truck is stock.Cleaned the IAT sensor. Did not look that dirty.The MAC Scan tool (determinator) was unable to read the IAT or MAP voltages.Not sure if this is a limitation of the scan tool or an ECM problem.We cleared the codes but they return immediately when the ignition is on. We checked all the grounds and cleaned the battery terminals.The batteries were both at 12.7 volts.Measured resistance from the IAT gnd terminal on the connecter to engine block and got 0-0.1 ohms.So I think the grounds are ok. Measured the voltage of the IAT …