2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain
Discussion of the 1994 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel non-power train. This includes interior, air conditioning, heating, lighting, body, suspension, brakes, stereos, etc.
2,734 topics in this forum
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I'm currently trying to figure out why I have to recharge my AC every spring I'm looking for leaks. Question is what are the sections of tubing that have the tin foil like tape on them? The one behind the battery I can hear flowing or leaking in it after turning the truck off for a minute or so.
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After reading some information from edcasey on CF and seeing this post from another site from him http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=303816&postcount=4 I am really starting to think about converting my truck. I had originally planned to purchase a 3/4 ton but I found this 3500 for a decent price in fairly good shape with every option I wanted, except the dual rear wheels. It not that the truck is hard to maneuver or anything but I am sure it would improve the ride, provide better off-road and winter weather traction, and be two less tires to replace. Doesn't seem that its that hard to do and according to edcasey the dually axle is hardly noticeabl…
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Does anyone have a parts breakdown or diagram of the vacuum lines? All of my vacuum line fittings are dry rotted and I want to replace all of them. I'm going to call the dealer today but in the past they always seem to be a little lost when it comes to the diesel trucks.
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Here you go guys and gals a water hammer video... This will give you a good feel of what is going on with the gauges. Now remember the injection pump turns at 1/2 the rate of the crank but fires all 6 injectors in 1 360* turn of the gear. So let say your cruising at 2K RPM's so the injection pump is turning 1K RPM's but fires 6,000 times a minute. This is why you really don't see pressure change like my video but since the frequency of the valve open/close causes a buzzing noise to mechanical gauges. Also my irragation system is much higher pressure compared to liftp pumps but the same efect happens just on a smaller scale.I blown up the filter once already being dum…
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I have a 99 2500 with 160k on it. I have replaced ball joints tie rod ends track bar and it still drives hard. I still kind of darts or wonders. It wants to go every way but strait down the road. I was wondering what you guys had for input on what to do as far as a gear box or aftermarket steering box. Thanks Joel
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as long as I've owned this truck the driver side seat heater has never worked. with some basic trouble shooting I've looked at the connections, looked at the switch, checked fuses. All I get it the switch light will blink on the HI side of the selector. With the switch light blinking that leads me to thinking the heating pads in the seat itself are bad, but I could be wrong. Has as anyone else had this problem?
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I read several posts on here about clutch cycling and decided to check my a/c system pressures. Today at 72 degrees my pressures were 225/30 on max a/c with blower motor wide open. Air inside cab is good and cold and clutch stayed engaged. I thought I was in good shape, then I noticed as soon as I turn the blower down or change from max a/c my clutch starts rapid cycling and pressures change to 150/40 when clutch is engaged. Air is still blowing cold on the inside. Any ideas what is going on? Too low R134a maybe?
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Hi all, First, thank you a million for all the awesome tech advice from this forum. The best one out there IMO. Here is my dilemma...Long story short, I had the truck a couple years with no idea that it had security on it. I always used the button and key to lock/unlock. The other day I inadvertently armed it (and then set it off) when I used the power lock button instead of the manual button. I had a spare CTM so I tried it and that did not get it running. I tried unhooking the batteries and that did not work either. I read a lot about the VTSS since then and tried a lot of things. I suspect I put it into "power up" mode by disconnecting the batteries w…
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if I go with a hbs 2in. leveling kit do I need to address anything else in the front end as far as dropping sway bar and such trying to figure this out and do on a budget I think im going with the ranchos as far as shocks go and the steering bow stabilizer from custom diesel any thoughts?
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Hi Folks, I’ve been thinking about it for a long while and have decided I’m going to purchase a slide in camper for my truck. I’ve been looking at tie downs and like the idea of frame mounted tie downs (like the Tork Lift version). The one issue I see with the Tork Lift tie downs is the fronts use the bed bolt which is where my Fass is mounted. Is there anybody around that has a Fass or Airdog lift pump that also uses Tork Lift tie downs? If so, how did you accomplish it? If anybody wants to chime in with their other tie down recommendations for these trucks, I’m all ears. Thanks
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ok i did this thead the way it said to do it. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3311-The-moment-you-ve-all-been-waiting-for-quot-SPORT-QUAD-HEADLIGHT-CONVERSION-quot i got the driver side done and went to test it on my 99 ram 1500 4x4. i was told on another fourm the 1500 and 2500 lighting conversion was the same. anyway i ran into a small problem. the harness works ok. only small problem is the dimming switch is backwards. when the blue high beem indacator is on the dash its on low beem. and when the high beem indactor is off its on high beem. can someone tell me what i did wrong and how i can fix it?
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Hi does anyone know if this topper is for 2gen or 3rd gen? Guy selling does not know... brand name anything may be helpful thank you.
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Has anyone changed their instrument cluster over to LED bulbs? If so, how would you say you like it? where did you get the bulbs? Is it worth getting the ebay kits, or better to source on my own?
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Have installed a S/G II and have not been able to figure out how to set an Xgauge command to monitor fuel pressure. Can anyone help?ThanksMohok
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I had replaced all inner and outer tie rods, sleeves, pitman arm, and idler arm as all are worn out... I did alignment at my work (during after work time). sometime when I was driving on highway or road, hit the uneven or bump, I could feeling a pop.. it make me feel like upper or lower ball joint start to wear out? I did replaced the shocks (all fours)... I did test the stabilizer links- it is tight.. the front end tires are show no wear problems... it is independent front suspension...
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I have the rear seat storage on my 01 and was wondering if any one knew if it would bolt right up in my 95? 2001 Posted from my mobile phone while not driving....
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I have a 96 Ram with an auto tranny. Over time the gear selector has gotten harder and harder to move, I'm assuming it needs to be lubed. If it needs to be lube where are the usual places. I have put some graphic on the plastic pieces in the dash, but that didn't help too much. And what is the best lube to use? Thanks, Bob
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This was my leak found where the pitman arm attaches to the box. [ATTACH]22[/ATTACH]First strap your steering wheel to something like the seat so it can not move.[ATTACH]23[/ATTACH]Losen your hoses and make sure to put a pan under the truck. Make sure to replace the o-rings on any fitting that was opened. This pic shows both hoses gone due to a leak in my return hose that needed replacing.[ATTACH]24[/ATTACH]Loosen the pinch bolt on the steering column shaft coupling that attaches to the box. Getting this back on with a remanned box can be difficult if the teeth are buggered up...use some grease. I had to line the flat side up in the right spot and tap it on with a hammer.…
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Hi guys, I put new tires on a year ago. A little after I did, I started hearing some rubbing during turning. I did not oversize the tiers. I went with the 265's that had been on there before. Well, today I finally saw where the rubbing sound must have been coming from. It is in the passenger front tire well. The rubber line that terminates at the hub. I'll post up pictures in a second. I'm going to have to replace the line. But I did nothing but put on new tires. I'm trying to figure out what is causing it to rub. I can't tell that the mount got turned or bent. Any ideas?
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Replacing rear sway links. On the drivers side do I need to move the fuel tank out of the way or did someone put this bolt in backward and I should put it back in the other way upon re installation?
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