2nd Generation Dodge Reliability / Performance

My last thread had to do with a crappy end to crappy month. But today was different. I will let ya'll decide for yourselves. No whining about the dirt or the broken bezel, I already know.

So here recently my trucks been loosing prime/fuel pressure after its been shut off and sits for a few hours, normally overnight. The other day it did in the 4 hours from when I got to work and left for lunch. This really bothered me, so after lunch I crawled all over her and checked all fittings to the fuel system I could get to. With no luck of something loose, I was not happy and dreading it bein internal. Pulled the dipstick and with 2k on this oil change, I was maybe a qt over full. This tells me that Ive got an injector thats leaking down after shut off. Truck runs and drives fine, no extra smoke at idle or drive, nor does it run any hotter. So finally to my …

I've been researching for awhile and I am more lost then when I started... My HX35 is mashed potatoes and it's time to throw it in the scrap pile. I've been looking at the Smeding Diesel Borg Warner "drop in" turbos because I've heard good things for the price. My truck has a FASS150, 150hp injectors, Quad ADR, 103# springs, a 5" pipe on it and it's a 5speed. I use it for work and moderate towing, I won't be taking it to the strip anytime soon, if ever. Turbo config I'm leaning towards is a 362/68/14, think that will fit the bill? They also offer a 362/65/14 and 366/68/14, 366/73/14 which I've determined is most likely too laggy. Just need some incite, ideas, opinio…

Looking at a new manifold. It's between the pdi or dps. Pdi seems to be way good. Dps haven't heard to much from them what I have it's been good. About a $300 difference. I don't care for bd or ats or afe. Steed speed is another I found but they just seem like they offer a good warranty that's it.

So I did a boost leak test on my 99 cummins found a t clamp that needed to be tighted. Took the tester to 25 psi. The gauge is slowly going down like .5psi every couple second. Did the soapy water test can't find anything. Can't hear anything. Is this normal to loose psi with it pressured up or should it stay at 25psi.

Didn't know where to put this. May need to move it somewhere else. I was planning on rebuilding the engine in this 98 12 valve someday. Have tried to sell it, but my wife loves the truck and priced it so high no one was interested. Have a co worker with a 17 year old son who wanted a diesel, so got to talking, they came and looked at it, made an offer, did some negotiating, waved some cash in my wife's face, and they took it home. It needs a lot of work, mainly engine rebuild. Good fixer upper for a kid. Should learn a lot. My grandsons were here for the sale. They are 7 and 8. They spent a lot of time in that old truck from birth to about age 4 or 5. They w…

I just want to attempt to kill off some Internet myths again. Cleaning IAT sensor WILL NOT improve engine performance or fix any engine problems. This right here is an IAT sensor for 98.5 to 02 Dodge Cummins 24V engine. This sensor has about 50k miles of gunk on it. This has ZERO impact on the sensor ability to read air temperature in the manifold. Cleaning the sensor will do nothing for performance or MPG. The way to check the IAT sensor for problems is with a live data tool like OBDLink, ScanGauge II or even the Quadzilla Adrenaline. Now at first key on of the day take note of the coolant and the IAT temperatures. They should match if they do no…

problems just installed raptor 100 last week held psi at 15psi idle. Drove to work on way back home truck started dieing out every now and again would pick right back up got home checked psi because mechanical gage mounted outside of cab! Psi wa at 14.5 Rev truck up to 2krpm psi was at 12psi let out of throttle psi drops to zero then will bounce to 5psi back to zero and will eventually make it back to 14.5psi. Cranked it up today psi dropped to zero and truck died. Truck info 02 dodge 2500 bone stock with raptor 100 lift pump 151k miles. Any helo will be appreciated first post take it easy on me

Since I got the trans out and transfer case I decided to change the fluid. I know we talked about it on here. It takes dexron 2-3 or atf+4 but there is just so many out there you can't tell what's good anymore. What you guys running or have you ran these and any problems thanks.

Hello all, Im looking for some old vp pictures. My old computer crashed and lost the ones I had from TDR years ago. I looked on this site but the docs and links don't seem to work. It could be the company computer but I doubt it...at this time. Does anyone have the old cutaway pictures of the internals for a VP. Or know how to get the ones back on here. Heres the page ive been looking at with no working links.https://mopar1973man.com/topic/1348-vp44-cutaway-and-pictures/ Thanks Jeremie

Looking for some opinions I'm running a modded hx35 63 68 ported 12 now here's what I'm thinking tater built 67 68.9 12 with the hx40 down pipe or go s300 ball bearing 64 71 12 both companies say there turbo will spool faster then mine tater built builds a version of my turbo and said he can get the 67 to spool faster with a 7 blade compressor ECT the tater built Is also cheaper and no I'm not going smaller I like my turbo but always want more so any one got opinions I don't want to have to compound it I want stock appearing

I got a turbo from @CSM and I went ahead and got it pulled down to rebuild it. While its apart I figure I would measure out the turbine and compressor wheels. Here is what I got. Compressor Inducer 60mm Exducer 83mm Turbine Exducer 60mm Inducer 69mm From what I found online this is a HX40 compressor wheel. The HX35W is 56mm compressor wheel. So this should be a rather nice boost (pun intended). Waiting for my bearing kit to come.

Replacing my manifold and was curious what you guys think is the best place to run a pyro if you are only using one. I was running a single pre turbo but debating adding a second or relocating my single. I know this horse has beaten a lot but I couldn't seam to find a good thread on it here. Does post only give you a better actual turbo temperature and that's it or are there other benefits to post turbo probes?

I feel like I should be knocking on wood. I've had no problems with my truck for ages. Feel like the preventive maintenance is paying off! Thanks to you guys and this site for helping me to see potential troubles and what to do about them! Side note...had to remove my studded tires this past week and got some new Toyo's. I am liking the 3rd gen 17" wheels. Cheap bling. Got used ones from a classified ad. Two sets so I have a set for studs and a set for regular tires.

What does the inner diameter of my air filter need to be to go on a 5 inch intake pipe?

2001 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9 cummins diesel. I have code po501 and after thinking back this Code started right after I changed my tires from 31inches tall to 35inches tall. I did any way check ABS Sensor/Replaced anyway. VSS/Replaced it anyway. Apps sweep test, test perfectly Replaed it anyway. So I am back to It has to be a programming issue with the ecm/pcm. I had dealership inter in the correct tire size and set the RPM's @800. Gps we will say shows 71mph when the dash speedometer reads almost 69-70mph. Is there a different setting the dealership should be doing also?

Ok so got into a weird discussion the other day on what it would take to put a real Jake brake in our cummins I'm not talking about exhaust brake. Talking about the real deal like in a semi. Is it just impossible because the design or what. Figured I'd ask the motor heads in the forum. Thanks

Hey guys, so anytime I hear something on CF that I find questionable, I come here to let the people I trust set me straight lol If any of you are bored, take a look at the comments toward the end of this thread and let me know your thoughts. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/2095985-low-mpg-new-post.html#/forumsite/20661/topics/2095985?page=4 As I say in the thread, I though ATF was a major no go for all diesels, and the same for 2 stroke in an egr engine, but these guys claim not. What's the deal?

I reacently found out my 99 cummins has a 53 block. It has 260k miles has an edge ez I believe. Bhaf, banks intake horn. Pusher hot side tube. Other than that it's stocks. My question is do you keep it or get rid of it. The truck runs great. Looking around on the block I didn't see any cracks or signs. I mean there was some oil from my vacuum pump and before I did the blow by mod but nothing that caught my eyes. I've read that if it doesn't crack by 100k your good. I've also read that wrong cold start and pulling heavy loads cracks it out. Talked to the guy who owned it before me he said he's never pulled light with it cattle, bales all gooseneck pulls. I've put a lot of …

Ok so on my 99 cummins there is nothing that says what fluid should be in my p/s pump. Can't find my owners manual. So I looked on here at downloads and they don't give a fluid spec. So next thing was google. Some people are using Lucas or atf +4 or whatever. I have a bottle of plain ol valvoline p/s fluid but is that right? Thanks.