What do you guys know about the 100 or 150 hp injectors, I want to hear the good, bad or indifferent opinions on them.  Cost, and how well they perform.  I'm looking for more power in my truck, this 7000 lb tavel trailer is really hard to pull up hills especially when some idiot decides to drive 10 mph under the speed lmit right in front of me and I loose all my momentium and rpm's. 

They should have came stock instead of the original injectors. Get a good set of 7x.010 (150) and don't look back. My truck ran great with them and egts were controllable. I ran Contagious Diesel's and would recommend them to anybody.

Is there a link to where I can start looking at these?  I really need more power.  

I have run all kinds of different injectors over the past few years. DAP, Industrial injection, Vulcan and the ones I'm running now Dynomite diesel performance I think are the best. All of the injectors I've run were either 7x.0095 or 7x.010 (125 -150 hp). The DDP's I'm running now are 7x.095 (125hp) they produced 503hp and 1180tq on the dyno. Here is a link to Dynomite Diesel http://www.dynomitediesel.com/.

Love my 100s, very controlable. I would consider 125s or 150s though. 100s burn cleaner than my 60s

I'm running a small +50 HP Injector from Vulcan Performance. Very, Very clean. Extremely good power tires do break loose in 4th (ask JAG1 about it). Extremely good MPG always in the 20's running empty and easy 12-14 MPG towing 8,000 pound 31 foot RV.

 

 

Even get 16 MPG hauling 7,000 pounds of firewood.

I'm running a small +50 HP Injector from Vulcan Performance. Very, Very clean. Extremely good power tires do break loose in 4th (ask JAG1 about it). Extremely good MPG always in the 20's running empty and easy 12-14 MPG towing 8,000 pound 31 foot RV.

 

 

 

Even get 16 MPG hauling 7,000 pounds of firewood.

 

do mention that you are running an edge comp @ level [5?]  that's worth 120 hp.    my own expirence is that would rather use smallish injectors and use a programer [etc.].    that way you can turn the power down,.. say, if i would want to use your truck....    my .02....

Edited May 26, 201510 yr by organicfarmer

True... I do have the Edge on 5x3 be at least I can turn it down in slick conditions so I can gain control on slick ground like ice or mud. Where a large injectors there is no way to turn them back down. So if I set 1x1 I would be under fuelled being sublevel 1 is only 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost. So I have a wider range of control this over large injectors. Neat part is I have the same amount of power.

What do you guys know about the 100 or 150 hp injectors, I want to hear the good, bad or indifferent opinions on them.  Cost, and how well they perform.  I'm looking for more power in my truck, this 7000 lb tavel trailer is really hard to pull up hills especially when some idiot decides to drive 10 mph under the speed lmit right in front of me and I loose all my momentium and rpm's. 

What is already done to your truck?? Make sure you have the supporting mods to handle the additional power.

 

That said, if you don't already have one a wiretap programmer might be a good bump in power before you decide to throw injectors in it.

What is already done to your truck?? Make sure you have the supporting mods to handle the additional power.

 

That said, if you don't already have one a wiretap programmer might be a good bump in power before you decide to throw injectors in it.

I agree more power is great but without some kind of chip (edge comp) or programmer (smarty) going to big can cause other problems and head aches. If you go over 40psi of boost without head studs you run the risk of blowing the head gasket. HX35'S can only handle 32-35 psi of boost. 100hp+ sticks can cook an HX35 on the egt side. So what have you done to your truck?

I agree more power is great but without some kind of chip (edge comp) or programmer (smarty) going to big can cause other problems and head aches. If you go over 40psi of boost without head studs you run the risk of blowing the head gasket. HX35'S can only handle 32-35 psi of boost. 100hp+ sticks can cook an HX35 on the egt side. So what have you done to your truck?

 

So my truck is completely stock except the K&N air filter.  I just had the Auto tranny serviced and the guy at the shop said it looks really good.  One of the problems is I don't have the money to put into this thing right now.  Our whole summer is already filled with activities that cost me money.  LOL 

If you have a stock tranny don't add power.   You needs a Valvebody and Torque converter at a min.

 

 

 

Ditch the K&N, use a BHAF or any other none oiled filter.  

Well I can't be sure but I'm wondering if the transmission has been upgraded.  It shifts like it has a shift kit in it, you know like the the old 350 turbo I had in my 72 chevy truck.  Oh well, I better not mess with it, but I might talk to a place an hour away and see what they think would be safe and cheap to upgrade.  

I'm guessing you still have the HY35 Turbo w/9cm exhaust back end 

Yeah... Auto's are common for having the tiny 9cm² exhaust housing on the turbo which is a problem in itself. They tend to run hotter EGT's wise because of such small exhaust housing. Then going over 40 PSI of boost need considerations for head studs or o-ringing the head depending on how far above 40 PSI your going. But the weak link for most is the Automatic 47RE transmission.

if you still have the HY35 you really are at the line cause anything you add to increase power is going to make the EGT's skyrocket.  . if you have gauges maybe Set of RV275 oem injectors is it. That would give you a little bump in power but honestly pulling 7k trailer your probably gonna notice very little power gain for the money and effort probably not worth it.

 

     These 47RE-RH STOCK TRANNYS are "Maxed out when they came off the lot new 12 or so years ago. throwing power upgrades at one 12yr. old is asking for trouble, I know this from my experience  .  TC was made for gas engines ,...just changing to stock HX turbo can have you slipping TC in OD when rollin out into the hammer lane loaded...

 

    IF your not ready to drop some serious denier'O, ID just turn up the CD player and enjoy the ride

Edited May 26, 201510 yr by rburks

Micheal,

   don't mean to hijack a thread but Your post above reminds me of something that I've been meaning to start a discussion about.  Since pressure at some point becomes restriction and restriction becomes heat, the best set-up always IMHO is the one that finds that sweet spot.  where do you think that spot is on a stock HX35 and stock intake an ACC....

 

   

Max'ed out on a HX35W turbo is right at 35 PSI. But hard to tell unless you have a exhaust back pressure gauge and a boost pressure gauge hooked up. Then you can see when the choke point occurs. Most claim the Hy35W is max'ed out at 30-32 PSI typically. But like my setup with small +50 HP injectors I'm barely 550-600*F at 60 MPH and running 2-3 PSI of boost tops. Running the RV at 55-60 MPG its more like 700-800*F and about 7-10 PSI boost. So I'm well below all the limits still. Even loaded with the RV and pulling a 6-7% grade in 4th gear (about 2,100 RPM's) I'm right at 1,050-1,100*F EGT's and about 25 PSI of boost cruise set at 55 MPH. As you can see I'm well below all the limits and have no real issues.

YEP,,Mike your fine, not what i was say'N... Some Guys always putting a lot of stock in psi, 40-50 psi boost. I mean theres only so much c.f.m. gonna go thru the stock ACC, intake and cylinder head anyway,,right  SOO i mean at that point the pressure just backs up and naturally boost psi will increase but at some point your C.F.M. actually stops increasing or maybe even decreases...  and decreasing power, (1)by either back pressure on compressor wheel or,, (2) the heat caused by increased restriction is making the air charge less dense.   

Edited May 26, 201510 yr by rburks

IDK,   I'm interested to see what others have to say about it, "I think its a good discussion ,

I once I get my code sorted I could tell you where the hx35 starts to choke for me. 

 

guessing looking at EGTS it is right around 34ish psi ( I live at 7000')