I know this has been beat to death over the years but I have a question. I never considered XRF because I thought they were high priced but checking I see they are cheaper than NAPA and OEM Spicer. Are they any good?

I thought Carli didn't make anything for our 2nd gen trucks...?

At that price they don't for mine        Not sure though

I think you are right about Carli. When I saw the price i knew they were out of my league. i read about them and never looked to see if they had them for my truck.  Dyntrac makes them for the 2nd gen except for 00-02. There price turned me off too.

Time to come back to planet earth. If your running a stockish truck there is no reason to buy top notch offroad suspension parts. Especially if your a pavement queen. Even with my high amount of off pavement use I still would never even suggest or buy something like that.

Just to humor myself I searched for Mopar OE ball joints. part # 501511AA. Found them on many "Genuine Mopar" wholesale sites, no picture or desciption from $135 to $165. Amazon being the cheapest. This is the lower ball joint didn't try to find the upper. My OE's were sealed and the Spicer I found is grease able. So while Spicer may be the OE manufacturer the joints I found are not OE. My sealed OE's lasted 200k and the Moog grease able lasted 80k though I probably did not grease them that often. So I guess I am going to pick one, stick them in and keep my fingers crossed.

Well, I've finally made up my mind. Checked E-Bay and I can get OEM Spicer un-greaseables for $85 shipped, Thats cheaper than NAPA and the last ones went 125k. And the Spicer axle joint for about $45. This is for my early axle. I did not see a listing for the 2000 and up Dana 60.

Be careful, Source Automotive told me Spicer makes two grades, one from China cheaper and still makes the good USA made ones more expensive. I recommend not going cheap with the tough job of BJ replacement.

You want the greasables. My original ungreasables were dry and rusty at 65k miles. wouldn't have happened had I had the opportunity to service them.

My original non greasers have 125k and just a bit of play. Dripley got around 200k on his oem non greasers which is why I think oem is the best bet. How's one to know if China or not?

My original non greasers have 125k and just a bit of play. Dripley got around 200k on his oem non greasers which is why I think oem is the best bet. How's one to know if China or not?

I actually did not replace them until 240k. But the steering was loose to say the least. I have found some Mopar "OEM" lowers at $135 each. If knew for sure they were the same i would most likely buy them. I would add while most everything on the front end was worn out, nothing ever failed.

Why were my oems dry and rusty at 65 k then  ?? Truck was a grocery getter for about 75 % of the time.. It's possible that my 02 was at the tail end of the second gen builds that Dodge put the cheapies on there or never greased them originally. Just no answer for this premature wear.

 

Like Source automotive said, you have a choice with Spicer brand the less expensive ones or the USA choice. Source automotive only works on Dodge pick ups and they did me a good job recommending the greasers. My lowers are also greasable

I am actually a firm believer in non grease-able one are better.  

 

My Oem's were non-greaseable and they made it close enough to 175000 miles not to matter.

posts like this make me glad for 2WD!!!

Yes it's sometimes better to save the money get the better mileage w/ 2wd. Also much simpler less expensive to maintain.

Why were my oems dry and rusty at 65 k then  ?? Truck was a grocery getter for about 75 % of the time.. It's possible that my 02 was at the tail end of the second gen builds that Dodge put the cheapies on there or never greased them originally. Just no answer for this premature wear.

 

Like Source automotive said, you have a choice with Spicer brand the less expensive ones or the USA choice. Source automotive only works on Dodge pick ups and they did me a good job recommending the greasers. My lowers are also greasable

I cant explain why. Why do some folks say they can get 80k, 90k out of set tires when I am lucky to 65k out of a set of Michelins?

 

I will go with sealed if i am convinced they are of good quality. Mainly because I will not grease them regularly. A personal issue. 

Edited September 13, 20159 yr by dripley

i know my truck is the AAM axles, but my joints made it 220K so far. i have the upper right starting to get loose. i'm thinking raybestose are the best option for me. price wise i think they are a good option with decent reviews.

Why were my oems dry and rusty at 65 k then  ?? Truck was a grocery getter for about 75 % of the time.. It's possible that my 02 was at the tail end of the second gen builds that Dodge put the cheapies on there or never greased them originally. Just no answer for this premature wear.

 

Like Source automotive said, you have a choice with Spicer brand the less expensive ones or the USA choice. Source automotive only works on Dodge pick ups and they did me a good job recommending the greasers. My lowers are also greasable

Jag is your sport 4wd with the Dana 60 axle?

I've got no issues with grease-able parts. Typically they get hit with a grease gun every oil change. They trick is to make sure you don't over do the amount of grease on some parts. (Blow the grease out). Like on my sealed parts I've got a grease needle and been capable of reloading the rubber balloon with grease every few years. Still got factory OE tie rods yet.

Jag is your sport 4wd with the Dana 60 axle?

I can't answer because I never learned how to tell which Dana axle I have.

In order for me to grease the lower BJ's I have to jack the front wheels off the ground turn the wheel away from the side that I'm on and spin the hub till the U joint knuckle is out of the way. Then remove the little grease cap and place a temporary angled grease zirk on there. Then put the cap back on. I know, it's more work but feel better knowing they can't get dry and rusty like before.

So you guys that like the nongreasable..... Are you saying they are sealed better? That dirt and water is better sealed out? I've heard that before but when mine failed so early I decided otherwise.

My First gen everything is greasable and all parts are over 400k.

I can't answer because I never learned how to tell which Dana axle I have.

In order for me to grease the lower BJ's I have to jack the front wheels off the ground turn the wheel away from the side that I'm on and spin the hub till the U joint knuckle is out of the way. Then remove the little grease cap and place a temporary angled grease zirk on there. Then put the cap back on. I know, it's more work but feel better knowing they can't get dry and rusty like before.

So you guys that like the nongreasable..... Are you saying they are sealed better? That dirt and water is better sealed out? I've heard that before but when mine failed so early I decided otherwise.

My First gen everything is greasable and all parts are over 400k.

There is a sticker on my glove box door the identifies both axles. Front Dana 60/2, rear Dana 80. should be one in yours I would think.

 

My Moog lowers have the zerk sticking out on an angle for greasing.

 

I have had good luck with the sealed stuff on this truck and that is why I would like to have them back, especially if I can get another 200k+ out of them. I stll have the sealed factory you joints all the way around with 350k miles. But who is to say that the OEM parts you buy today are really the same part they used back in 01 when the truck was built.

 Thanks Dave, I'll take a look at my glove box sticker and post back.

About what the factory uses... I have a friend that has the latest gen Dodge Cummins. Supposed to be nearly the same front end as the 2nd gens and 3rd gens with some changes for the better as you go later models. However, the newest generation Dodge front end steering has caused some deaths, as I understand, there is a big lawsuit and recall on it.



Read the sticker, it's pretty wore off so difficult to tell, but, looks like it says M60 or something. I have a camper package, does that mean I could have a bigger axle?

 Thanks Dave, I'll take a look at my glove box sticker and post back.

About what the factory uses... I have a friend that has the latest gen Dodge Cummins. Supposed to be nearly the same front end as the 2nd gens and 3rd gens with some changes for the better as you go later models. However, the newest generation Dodge front end steering has caused some deaths, as I understand, there is a big lawsuit and recall on it.

Read the sticker, it's pretty wore off so difficult to tell, but, looks like it says M60 or something. I have a camper package, does that mean I could have a bigger axle?

 

I think all models have dana 60 fronts and automatic 2500s have dana 70 rears. Manuals and 3500s have dana 80 rears.