Well Gang, 

 

 

The Board of Directors on the Mopar1973Man.com has decided that we need to produce some new High Idle Switches for the 2nd gen 24V Cummins.  We have spent a considerable amount of time designing a Brand New High Idle / MPG fooler Switch.  

 

We have learned from the last switch design and have made significant improvements.  The New High Idle / MPG Fooler switch will be the same price as before, but it will be more robust and modular to allow for easier install.  

 

We have decided to only offer a "Install Anywhere  Kit" rather than a gauge mount or Cubby Mount.  You will nly have to drill one 1/4" hole to allow for the fitment of the switch.  

 

Some teaser pictures. 

 

 

 

 

 

We are making 50 switches to start then another run of 50 after that.  You can order them from The Mopar1973Man.com Store I expect to have them ready to ship within a 6 week time. 

Edited November 22, 20159 yr by Mopar1973Man

Gotcha, that makes sense. I'll check the resistance. Do you mean with the extra cat5 from what I used, or to expose my soldering connections and go from point to point there? Actually, I guess I'll do one then the other...

Well wait ( sorry thinking)

 

Humm does IAT temp stay stable on the rest of the settings?  All IAT reads travel across the same wires, so I would expect to see the issue on all settings not just one.

 

If it does then I think there is some sort of issue in the switch.  How much back spacing is behind the switch?  Does it read funky if you have the switch hanging up there rather than put in place in the overhead?  

 

This might happen if the board was shorting out due to back spacing where you have it mounted.

There is plenty of space behind the switch, although it is possible there's a wire pressing against it from being coiled up in that same space. First thing I'll do is take the switch down and re-try each setting with the truck idling. On 6 cylinder the IAT is right at 30*. When I switch it to 3 cylinder it starts bouncing up and down between 160ish and 180ish. When I turn the switch off, it stabilizes, last night at 112* at idle.

Oh, and on MPG mode IAT is steady at 145*

I am assuming you had a check engine light too?  

 

yea pull it down and retest in each mode.  

 

In theory temps should be at 

MPG mode: IAT 143*f ECT engine temp

6 cyl mode: IAT 23*f ect 123*f

3cyl mode: Iat 13*f ect Engine temp.

 

Anyways I doubt it is in the harness, 112*f means the ecm is seeing 5v on the IAT signal wire when in the 3 cy mode.  I would check the bare wire VERY carefully for a short to the back of the switch.

No check engine light. Only when I started the truck up with the board disconnected from the harness. I was weirded out for a few seconds before I realized I'd left the board on the work bench :doh:

It very could be that the 13*f resistor got bumped / knocked on the switch.    I am not claiming to be %100 perfect on my soldiering, but I did test each unit lololol.

 

Anyways call me tonight once you get to troubleshooting.

6 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Just messin to with you. 

Sleezy,

 

good to chat with you.  I wanted to put what we talked about down so I remember what was said and so forth.  My memory can be similar to  a gold fish haha.

 

So the switch is showing over 200*f on the intake air temp regardless of the position the switch is in.  As it was working before the extra length of harness was added I am going to have to assume the issue is in the harness as the position of the switch doesn't effect the IAT reading.  

 

My guess is that there is a short in the blue to white or blue to bare or bare to white wires ( my guess would be blue and white wires)  I would unplug everything and test for continuity across those 3 wires.  They should not make any sort of circuit.  As we talked about on the phone I would be looking at any melted shielding that may have happened in the wires when you soldiered them.  the cat5e would transfer heat VERY rapidly when using a soldering iron that could lead to the wire casing melting.  

 

I would cut everything fresh and get the molex connectors I posted earlier,  that should help ensure there are no shorts in the junction while ensuring a good tight connection.  

 

Let me know what you find and we will go from there.

Hey guys I just got my high idle kit yesterday, going to install today. I would really love the cubby hole mounting plate! Is there anyway I can get one somehow? Ill pay via paypal. Hit me up via personal message and let me know. For now Im just going to let the switch rest in the cubby hole until I get the mopar man cubby mount plate. My folks are here for thanksgiving already haha, well my dad was asking what the high idle switch does and I explained, with help from here, and he is amazed at the fact that there is so much tuning and modifications can be done to these trucks. I said yes I had no idea either until after I bought mine and joined cumminsforum and discovered this site. Thank you

I don't know that we have any cubby hole mounts.  Ed Grafton was the one who made that version of the switch, no product really came through the mopar1973man site or was made by the site, rather from him and DAP.  

 

We have the artwork for it if you care to make your own cubby hole mount.  

What about getting the cubby hole gauge mount from genos. Then getting the gauge mount cap. The cap that covers empty gauge holes. Then drill into the cap and mount the switch there. I'm wondering how ridged the cap is. Is it soft or hard?  

7 hours ago, Me78569 said:

I don't know that we have any cubby hole mounts.  Ed Grafton was the one who made that version of the switch, no product really came through the mopar1973man site or was made by the site, rather from him and DAP.  

 

We have the artwork for it if you care to make your own cubby hole mount.  

Nice! I will do that, thanks. I just installed my high idle switch! Pretty cool and really happy its made in AMERICA with DELPHI connectors! I still need to have my rig enabled for high idle though, but until then I'm more then happy with increased MPGs! I'll look at making my own mount plate with some sort of lexan material from one of my old rc car bodies. 

Good Idea!!  

 

that is my favorite part of the new switch design, you can mount it however you want!

10 hours ago, tbo1450 said:

What about getting the cubby hole gauge mount from genos. Then getting the gauge mount cap. The cap that covers empty gauge holes. Then drill into the cap and mount the switch there. I'm wondering how ridged the cap is. Is it soft or hard?  

You could take Genos mount and use it for a pattern. It should come with the necessary spacers, etc. 

So for someone who lives in Southern California with winter morning temps from 40-55 degrees and pretty short (8 mile) hops to and from work most of the time, is this something that is going to be of significant benefit?

Remember using high idle to warm up is going to reduce the MPG. So I typically try and keep my high idle usage down if possible. I only use it long enough to gain some coolant temperature like 80-120*F and get rolling. If you wait till it kick off it could use quite a bit of fuel.

As for MPG mode it will alter the timing map enough to act like summer conditions and reduce excessive rattle and should provide a mild increase to MPG's. Again is based on how much or little high idle time you use too.

So for example if you start the truck in the OFF position allow the grid heaters to fire and then flip to MPG mode. Now just drive to work you'll see the best gains for MPG's vs. using either high idle mode and attempting to fully warm the truck up before leaving. So it would be optimal in your case to plug in and just use the MPG mode.

The only time I use high idle modes the most is when there is no way to plug in, extremely cold days where it best to leave it high idle than to shutdown. Another is extremely hot days and needing to cool down the cab fast. Other than that it better to fire up and drive easy till the coolant temperature rise into the normal range.

Glad you posted this Mike. I was wondering why my MPGs were down! I usually let the truck sit in high idle for 5-10 minutes before leaving for work. It'd be better to sacrifice some MPGs rather then doing a cold such down right? Or is that the other way around?

12 minutes ago, notlimah said:

Glad you posted this Mike. I was wondering why my MPGs were down! I usually let the truck sit in high idle for 5-10 minutes before leaving for work. It'd be better to sacrifice some MPGs rather then doing a cold such down right? Or is that the other way around?

What we've been discussing is that more than 5 min idling is considered unnecessary and possibly harmful by Cummins.  The current consensus is that you idle it briefly until the engine smooths out a bit, and then idle away and drive real nice until it warms up.  Usually the idle time is a minute or two, then go, or less if it was plugged in. The high idle will get the oil flowing a little better & get the alternator spinning faster and additionally the 3cyl idle will put a load on the engine to warm it up faster. 

Unlike a gas engine, a diesel just builds heat very very slowly at idle due to the lack of load and subsequent lean mixture at idle. 

Yea I haven't been letting it idle at normal RPMs, always using either 3/6cyl. Just wasn't sure it was better to get the engine warm as to avoid a cold shut down (real short commute to work) or just do like your saying, start, let run for a bit then go. Its getting colder then normal around these parts 20* this morning, so that combined with a short trip to work has me in limbo of importance.